Do you hammer or press?

kramersteen

PowerMetalRaph
Do you prefer to hammer or press your frets in and why?

My local guy who also teaches me ''when needed:)'' strictly uses a hammer.

:feedback:


I have a few frets to do and many more in the future and was considering investing in a press or even the stewmac jaws.

 
Last edited:
Re: Do you hammer or press?

Do you prefer to hammer or press your frets in and why?

My local guy who also teaches me ''when needed:)'' strictly uses a hammer.

:feedback:


I have a few frets to do and many more in the future and was considering investing in a press or even the stewmac jaws.


Lot of guys hammer in their frets and then press them in after to ensure that they're seated correctly. Others press them in then hammer any imperfections.

If you don't have a press then I'd suggest the method where you hammer in each fret in a side, side, middle pattern to seat the fret then hammer from left to right across the fret overlapping each hammer with the last
 
Re: Do you hammer or press?

I haven't done a fret job myself, but, thinking about the theory of it, a press would give you an even amount of pressure across the whole fret at once when you push it. With a hammer, you as the wielder thereof are error prone in terms of the amount of pressure each blow exerts.

Of course, there are people out there who are very skilled with a hammer (like Gil Yaron, whom we've spoken about - does the sideways installation for his pre-CBS replicas!), but for someone starting out, a press will yield more consistent results.

Another important thing is to cut the slots so that they're the same depth as the tang, no more!
 
Re: Do you hammer or press?

The guy that does my refrets uses a hammer. I've never had a problem with his technique. When I get my guitars back they play and feel great!
 
Re: Do you hammer or press?

When working with frets, especially using a hammer, the old addage associated mostly with art ("Less is More") is essential to follow. Since wood compresses and expands after a force has been applied to it, the more times this action is repeated (as with a hammer) and/or the more force that is exerted (as with a too heavy hammer) the more the wood (that holds the tang in place) is destroyed and the more likely you are to have a fret pop up later on.

So the key is...use the proper hammer, be gently, be quick, and be done with it. Don't dink around and keep hitting it thinking that you're making the fret stay put...just the opposite is the case.
 
Re: Do you hammer or press?

I agree with Doc.

Pressing is considered better as it has no recoil, but you can't put just anything under the arbour press, like a set neck or an acoustic guitar, unless the board is fretted before gluing.. Are you planning to fret at least 50 per year? Then go for it. Sooner or later you will want one. I started with a hammer, now I press and hammer.
If you for any reason plan on doing SS refrets, then a press is almost a must, because often times stainless goes in best when it is radiused exactly so it just simply driven in place. Anoter good thing about pressing is easy glue squeeze-out. If you soak the slot with CA and then hammer the fret in, it will squirt out all over the place. Pressing is wonderful for delicate maple boards that you don't plan refinishing, so no finish raking.

In the end, hammer is your best friend at fretting.

As for the high frets Doc metioned - if you see a fret sticking proud after a complete hammer refret, take a regular metal hammer and a piece of flat steel about 6-8'' long, lay that on the frets and bang on it all along the fretboard. That's Erlewine's method of reseating the frets with a hammer. Ideally you would press down and glue or clamp it with a radius block.
 
Re: Do you hammer or press?

I have used both methods. With a hammer I like the fret to have a slightly smaller/tighter radius than the FB, and the slot to be very slightly deeper than the fret tang (this will allow the fret to seat fully just in case). Start by seating the fret at both edges of the FB first then work across the board (this will help lock the fret end in). Make sure that the neck is properly supported under the fret that you are working on. After all the frets are in I nip the ends off and check to see that they are all properly seated. I then use a clamping block that I designed (it conforms to any radius and not only pushes down on the ends but also the entire fret surface) to lightly clamp the frets down while I apply 2 drops of CA at the tang of each fret end. After the CA cures I file the fret ends flush with the FB edge, and check the frets for level. Then bevel, and radius the ends and polish the frets.
 
Back
Top