Duncan alpha and omega in PRS custom 24 with 5 way switch
- Thread starter Ifriskyturtle
- Start date
Ifriskyturtle
New member
I attempted to wire up new pickups in my custom 24 and from what I can hear, everything works except for position 4. Does anybody know from my picture if something obvious looks wrong? I have the bridge red and white coil split cables disconnected cuz I couldn’t figure get it to all work with it. Could that affect why the neck isn’t being split in position 4?
ThreeChordWonder
New member
The red and white should be connected to each other.
What follows is the basic plan for coil splitting. There are more sophisticated methods, but this will get you started.
For what follows, green and bare both go to ground.
You need to wire the bridge hot (black) to the P1 contact on one bank of the superswitch and put a jumper wire across to the P2 and P3 on the same bank. The common contact on that bank goes to the volume pot input lug (see below).
On another bank connect the neck pickup to the P5 lug and put a jumper across to P4 and P3. The common lug here goes to the neck volume pot. If you only have one volume pot, just connect the common lugs to each other, then to the volume pot input lug.
Now the bridge will be active in P1 and P2, the neck in p4 and P5, and both will be active in P3.
Now for the coil splits.
Solder both the red and the white from the bridge pickup to one contact on a third bank. Solder the red and white from the neck to the P4 contact. If you want split coils in P3, jump the P2, P3 and P4 contacts to each other, otherwise don't. Solder a wire from the common contact on this third bank to ground. Now in P2 and P4 (and P3 if you chose) the red and white get grounded. The south coil (green and red) is neutralized. The north coil (black and white) remains active.
Dual volume pots.
For coupled volume pots, the hot wires go to the outer lugs on the pots and the output comes from the middles. The third lug is grounded.
For independent volumes the hot wires go to the middle lugs and the outputs come from the outside lugs. You need to ensure there is no volume pot to volume pot ground. Instead ground each pot to its tone pot, or the common tone pot if you only have one. You'll probably want treble bleeds if you do this.
What follows is the basic plan for coil splitting. There are more sophisticated methods, but this will get you started.
For what follows, green and bare both go to ground.
You need to wire the bridge hot (black) to the P1 contact on one bank of the superswitch and put a jumper wire across to the P2 and P3 on the same bank. The common contact on that bank goes to the volume pot input lug (see below).
On another bank connect the neck pickup to the P5 lug and put a jumper across to P4 and P3. The common lug here goes to the neck volume pot. If you only have one volume pot, just connect the common lugs to each other, then to the volume pot input lug.
Now the bridge will be active in P1 and P2, the neck in p4 and P5, and both will be active in P3.
Now for the coil splits.
Solder both the red and the white from the bridge pickup to one contact on a third bank. Solder the red and white from the neck to the P4 contact. If you want split coils in P3, jump the P2, P3 and P4 contacts to each other, otherwise don't. Solder a wire from the common contact on this third bank to ground. Now in P2 and P4 (and P3 if you chose) the red and white get grounded. The south coil (green and red) is neutralized. The north coil (black and white) remains active.
Dual volume pots.
For coupled volume pots, the hot wires go to the outer lugs on the pots and the output comes from the middles. The third lug is grounded.
For independent volumes the hot wires go to the middle lugs and the outputs come from the outside lugs. You need to ensure there is no volume pot to volume pot ground. Instead ground each pot to its tone pot, or the common tone pot if you only have one. You'll probably want treble bleeds if you do this.
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