Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

I am not worried for you at all. Your doing a good job. But don't you have a shed or something you could have sprayed in?
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

negatory. I thought about doing it on my balcony, but it's always super windy there and I didn't want to have to deal with tons of dust getting stuck on the wet lacquer.
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

Masked off the sides and got the front done.

Next up, burst edges and fixing the tiny runs. Then tomorrow, clear coats!

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Nice work.
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

Guess im lucky to have a 7x11m man cave shed. I know you said you sanded most the sealer off but re applied some to the sides. IS there any grain showing through the paint anywhere?

And are you doing this all by rattle cans?

And I was wondering why no one in the guitar world does guide coats before they do final spray. My old man taught me how and its unbelievable how many flaws can appear in what was thought to be a perfectly flat body body/car.

Here is a little info i found for anyone wondering what the **** i am on about.

A guide coat is a thin mist of colour applied over high build primer and then wet flatted off. Initial sanding will remove the high points, and it is only when the whole of the guide coat has been removed that the high points of the panel will be level with the low points - then the surface will be completely smooth and ready for top coating.

Guide coat sanding is done immediately before the colour coat. My approach for a guide coat is to mix evenly colour with primer then add at least 75% thinners. The primer content aids sanding and thickens the guide coat so it doesn't disappear before the panel is flat. Using the top coat colour prevents problems with painting over any guide coat that isn't completely sanded off
 
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Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

well grainfiller and sealer coats are pretty common in the guitar world. typically grainfiller is applied, dried, and sanded back, and serves much the same function as your guide coat - to fill up the low spots/grain. Usually, if done right, after sanding the grainfiller, the surface is level and ready for finishing. And then the sealer is just for sealing the wood.

but ya, I'm doing it all by rattle cans. Don't really see any grain showing so far.
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

well grainfiller and sealer coats are pretty common in the guitar world. typically grainfiller is applied, dried, and sanded back, and serves much the same function as your guide coat - to fill up the low spots/grain. Usually, if done right, after sanding the grainfiller, the surface is level and ready for finishing. And then the sealer is just for sealing the wood.

but ya, I'm doing it all by rattle cans. Don't really see any grain showing so far.

i have done a heap of resprays and always have found flaws in the finish even after using sanding sealer. I dont think its meant to be a alternative to a guide coat. Yet in saying that i don't see a lot of people doing it. I think you would be surprised at what a guide coat can do its a good step in the process and isn't hard to do. Anyway carry on haha
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

I was wondering why no one in the guitar world does guide coats before they do final spray.

I can't speak for anyone else, but I have sprayed plenty of cars and music gear (using a compressor and guns), and my thinking is this : On a car, one is somewhat limited in the viewing angles relative to light sources, and guide coats provide a great way to see the high and low points. Guitars can be comfortably manouvered into almost any viewing position under a work light, and light scuffs with fine sandpaper is enough to see any discrepancies. Combined with block sanding, great finishes can be achieved without guide coats.

Also the much larger surface areas involved with cars will show up discrepanices more noticeably, from small lows and highs to much larger 'waves', whereas the average guitar has only small areas once the hardware is fitted ... the largest single flat area on most guitars is usually the back.

The majority of guitars shouldn't be relying on levelling thick layers of primer anyway, most of the levelling should be attended to on the wood itself, and to some degree on sealers used before the primer. Too much thickness in primer coats, esp the filling-types, can cause problems later on both guitars and cars ('crowsfeet' is a typical symptom on cars, as the excessive builds below the colour coats continues to shrink after the top coats have been applied).

That's not to say a guide coat may not be of help sometimes, but i think it's a lot less necessary on guitars, and thousands of very high-quality guitar finishes may attest to that. Just my undeucated (but somewhat experienced) opinion.
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

I can't speak for anyone else, but I have sprayed plenty of cars and music gear (using a compressor and guns), and my thinking is this : On a car, one is somewhat limited in the viewing angles relative to light sources, and guide coats provide a great way to see the high and low points. Guitars can be comfortably manouvered into almost any viewing position under a work light, and light scuffs with fine sandpaper is enough to see any discrepancies. Combined with block sanding, great finishes can be achieved without guide coats.

Also the much larger surface areas involved with cars will show up discrepanices more noticeably, from small lows and highs to much larger 'waves', whereas the average guitar has only small areas once the hardware is fitted ... the largest single flat area on most guitars is usually the back.

The majority of guitars shouldn't be relying on levelling thick layers of primer anyway, most of the levelling should be attended to on the wood itself, and to some degree on sealers used before the primer. Too much thickness in primer coats, esp the filling-types, can cause problems later on both guitars and cars ('crowsfeet' is a typical symptom on cars, as the excessive builds below the colour coats continues to shrink after the top coats have been applied).

That's not to say a guide coat may not be of help sometimes, but i think it's a lot less necessary on guitars, and thousands of very high-quality guitar finishes may attest to that. Just my undeucated (but somewhat experienced) opinion.

The only reason i do it is because that's what i was shown. My dad is 70 now and worked in the auto spraying business for over 50 years and even know he did automotive spraying i still have learned so much from him in regards to guitar refinishing. But like i said its a easy step along the way to do and takes little time so why not? If it means the finish will be that fraction bit better i am all for it.
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

That was tough..... Didn't come out quite as nice as I'd hoped, but it's damn hard to get tight lines without overspray and runs using a rattle can. There's some blotchiness right above the pickup cavity, but I'll try to fix that tomorrow before laying on the first clearcoat.

P3291074_zpse3a82f45.jpg
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

Alright I fixed as much as I dared, and just in time too. Ran out of black.

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Didn't get around to starting the clear coat today, so that'll have to wait until tomorrow night when I will probably be stuffed with easter lunch and will probably feel too lazy to put on the clear coat....we'll see.
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

For anyone wondering...

I decided that instead of applying clear coat right away, I'd let the color coat cure a bit. I'll probably get around to clear coating by the end of the week.
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

Ok clear coat starts tomorrow.

But in the meantime...


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*PELVIC THRUST*
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

I should be able to get all the clear coating done by the end of the weekend. But then it's gotta cure for a couple weeks at least before I can do final assembly/setup.
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

I should be able to get all the clear coating done by the end of the weekend. But then it's gotta cure for a couple weeks at least before I can do final assembly/setup.

Don't forget a good cut and polish that's where the magic happens hehe
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

oh yeah obviously. I'm gonna wet sand up to 2000 grit, then go at it with fine and ultra fine polishing compounds and then swirl remover.
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

oh yeah obviously. I'm gonna wet sand up to 2000 grit, then go at it with fine and ultra fine polishing compounds and then swirl remover.

Dont you love it when people point out really obvious things? It happens to me all the time i must come across as a a bit of a spaz haha
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

everyone here is a spaz of some sort. some more than others.
 
Re: Explorer Bass Refinish thread of doom

tiny update. I was having some trouble with the clear gloss rattle cans. with the spray nozzle set to vertical, for some reason I couldn't get a nice smooth coat on. It was coming out in a very fine mist and not building nicely. That was the first coat. I figured it wouldn't matter much seeing as i'm using lacquer.

Just sprayed the 2nd coat, and changed it to a vertical direction which not only made it easier to spray the edges and corners and whatnot, but I seemed to be getting better coverage and better build. So that's 1 can over. 2nd can to go (i'll try doing another coat tonight before bed).

I'm not entirely sure how thin I want to leave the clear coats, or if 4 coats will even be enough to survive the wetsanding and buffing process. Another can would bring it up to 6 coats. Anyone have any advice?
 
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