First attempt wiring. How does it look?

Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

LOVERSMOON...

First of all, ignore just about everything in this following post!

You certainly DON'T need more solder. Your solder joints on the backs of the pots are very bad. They are DEFINITELY cold joints.

...

The wire you are using is great. It is vintage cloth covered multistranded wire. Can't get much better than that. For wiring a Strat pickguard, it is perfectly fine to use solid wire instead of stranded wire if you want, since the guard holds everything rigid anyway. In fact solid wire actually works great in that application. The guage of wire you are using is perfect. No need to go thinner, although it won't hurt anything to go thinner (as low as 24 guage is fine, 18-22 is ideal).

As far as wire strippers are concerned. They work great!!.......on plastic coated/insulated wire. Not so great on vintage cloth covered wire. If you intend on continuing to use that wire, save your money on the stripper. Just cut the wire and "push back" the cloth covering. (Incidently, that is why this type of wire is sometimes refered to as "pushback" wire).

...

Good points, Doc!

My comments about more solder / shiny joints were more meant about the connections on the switch/pot terminals, not the ground connections on the pot cans which had already been called out as unnecessary and recommended to be removed by others. I think the soldering work in general looks very good for a first-time job. I could have been more clear in my post.

The wire gauge is probably just fine, and that does indeed look like multi-strand wire after all. But it appears to be several gauges heavier than the leads from the pickups. As I am sure you know, heavy gauge can be more difficult to work with, requires more heat to solder properly, and will not always fit through the terminals especially when joined to another wire. It is also not as flexible as thinner wire, so can make re-assembly more difficult than it has to be. Using the correct size and type of wire for the job is more likely to lead to satisfactory results and a more durable build.

FWIW, I still would not recommend solid-core wire for a job like this, as it is more susceptible to fatigue. For example, the white wire jumpering the pickup selector switch will get crushed flat when the pickguard is re-attached to the guitar, and this could stress the solder connections at both ends if that wire were not flexible enough. Nothing sucks more than having a working circuit that breaks when you screw everything back together. Solid core wire is not generally used in soldered applications, just as stranded wire is not ideal for making screw-terminal connections, and I have never seen factory or craftsman guitar wiring that was done with solid core. YMMV.

The wire strippers I suggested will not work on cloth insulation, so my advice was misguided in this context. They are an important tool to have if you are doing much electrical work, and still worth adding to the toolbox when a decent pair of strippers can be had for about $5.

View attachment 35400

well second attempt to try and clean up the first. I cant tell if its better or worse. did get the switch so it will turn into all five slots now.

The ground connection on the leftmost pot looks much better than before. Notice how the solder lays in a smooth mound rather than in a rounded blob. That means you did have enough heat and a good solder flow when you made that connection. The other two ground connections look sketchy, though. Try to get them to look like the first one and you should be in good shape.

I apologize if any of my advice was misleading. I'll defer to GuitarDoc for any further instruction in this area, as he is clearly quite experienced with this kind of work and most generous with his advice. I hope you are learning a lot and getting good practice with the iron. Keep at it and enjoy the toxic fumes!
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

I am very interested in these fluorescent lambs, they sound awesome and would be great fun. Do you have any pics ?

3472239828_caf1552de4.jpg
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

awesome lamb......yeah im still not happy with the area there around the cap. If it works good if nto Ill redo it. i tried to remelt that area and no matter what i do to it it simply will not melt. So push comes to shove when the new pot gets here I just take that one out and redo the middle pot.
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

Man, seriously.... remove that ground wires between pots' cases!.
I think I know what I am talking about.

No you don't. This is not what a ground loop is. See post #12.

Those extra wires aren't necessary, but they're not causing any problems either.
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

No you don't. This is not what a ground loop is. See post #12.

Those extra wires aren't necessary, but they're not causing any problems either.

in my eyes you can never have too much ground. If it proves at some point to become and issue then it will be removed.
 
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Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

No you don't. This is not what a ground loop is. See post #12.

Those extra wires aren't necessary, but they're not causing any problems either.

Eddy currents? ground loop?. Whatever. They increase floor noise. 100% positive.
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

then why does the seymour duncan site have them in all the diagrams?
Because early guitars HADN'T that steel foil on the backside of the pickguard.
Because LP's werent' shielded (now, all components are mounted in a metal plate that makes unnecesary those links).

All my pickguarded guitars have not such links and all work awesomelly quiet.
All my guitars are shielded and have not such links and all them work awesomelly quiet.
Any extra wire is just a one more potential source of noise.

You asked for opinions... but, do whatever you want, sure.
Best to experience things yourself.
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

hmm. when i fire it up . if its noisy ill take em out and see if it makes a difference. Im gonna foil the body cavity anyways. But ok retarded question time. when using the vintage wiring which is hot and which is ground...the black is ? and the white is ? when wiring the jack. (switchcraft jack) I want to get the right color wire to the right section of the jack.
 
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Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

hmm. when i fire it up . if its noisy ill take em out and see if it makes a difference. Im gonna foil the body cavity anyways. But ok retarded question time. when using the vintage wiring which is hot and which is ground...the black is ? and the white is ? when wiring the jack. (switchcraft jack) I want to get the right color wire to the right section of the jack.

Black is usually used as ground.
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

IMG_1109.jpgIMG_1104.jpgIMG_1101.jpg

She's coming together nicely. Im gonna clear coat over my mothers name when i take the chrome tuners off and replace them with gold. I just need to get the middle and neck pickups, ground wire from claw soldered in, and nut in place.
 
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Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

Very clean for a first attempt. My wiring looks like a litter box nightmare.
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

Very clean for a first attempt. My wiring looks like a litter box nightmare.

lol. this one gave me fits for a bit. its not the prettiest in the world but it appears that it may serve its purpose.
 
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Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

Good points, Doc!

My comments about more solder / shiny joints were more meant about the connections on the switch/pot terminals, not the ground connections on the pot cans which had already been called out as unnecessary and recommended to be removed by others. I think the soldering work in general looks very good for a first-time job. I could have been more clear in my post.

The wire gauge is probably just fine, and that does indeed look like multi-strand wire after all. But it appears to be several gauges heavier than the leads from the pickups. As I am sure you know, heavy gauge can be more difficult to work with, requires more heat to solder properly, and will not always fit through the terminals especially when joined to another wire. It is also not as flexible as thinner wire, so can make re-assembly more difficult than it has to be. Using the correct size and type of wire for the job is more likely to lead to satisfactory results and a more durable build.

FWIW, I still would not recommend solid-core wire for a job like this, as it is more susceptible to fatigue. For example, the white wire jumpering the pickup selector switch will get crushed flat when the pickguard is re-attached to the guitar, and this could stress the solder connections at both ends if that wire were not flexible enough. Nothing sucks more than having a working circuit that breaks when you screw everything back together. Solid core wire is not generally used in soldered applications, just as stranded wire is not ideal for making screw-terminal connections, and I have never seen factory or craftsman guitar wiring that was done with solid core. YMMV.

The wire strippers I suggested will not work on cloth insulation, so my advice was misguided in this context. They are an important tool to have if you are doing much electrical work, and still worth adding to the toolbox when a decent pair of strippers can be had for about $5.



The ground connection on the leftmost pot looks much better than before. Notice how the solder lays in a smooth mound rather than in a rounded blob. That means you did have enough heat and a good solder flow when you made that connection. The other two ground connections look sketchy, though. Try to get them to look like the first one and you should be in good shape.

I apologize if any of my advice was misleading. I'll defer to GuitarDoc for any further instruction in this area, as he is clearly quite experienced with this kind of work and most generous with his advice. I hope you are learning a lot and getting good practice with the iron. Keep at it and enjoy the toxic fumes!

You are absolutely correct on all points. The white shunt wire on the switch, however, is a multi stranded wire. However, you are correct that in this application a thin multi stranded wire would be much better.

Agree, the solder joint on the far left tone pot looks MUCH better. The others are better too (not perfect, but much improvement).
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

View attachment 35400

well second attempt to try and clean up the first. I cant tell if its better or worse. did get the switch so it will turn into all five slots now.

Much improvement. Really great looking for your first soldering job. You will definitely get the hang of it with some more experience. Like I said, you are already doing better than others who have been doing this for a long time.

Seriously!...use some 220 grit sandpaper on those pots. Just enough sanding to make it look clean and shiny (but roughened). Remember to heat the pot and let the solder flow toward the iron, not away from it.

All in all, great looking work.
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

thanks. I am very proud of my work. Ill roughen the spot on the pot when i solder in the middle and neck. I did a comp between my prs and my partscaster for hum. about the same amount from both guitars when neither have strings on them. Id say thats pretty good ;)
 
Re: First attempt wiring. How does it look?

How?!? They aren't even in the signal path.

For small currents the wires' nominal resistance is enough to make it flow. Well, that's the reason for ground loops too anyway isn't it? :scratchch

We're talking about noise current level here and guitar signal is a weak one to consider noise as not that important. Even thermal noise affects sound but that's another story. Having said that not everyone could hear it though so see for yourself and do accordingly. I guess for bedroom level is ok but if you amplify it for a whole stadium it becomes an issue for obvious reasons.
 
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