Floyd Dilemma

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Hello everybody,

I just finished restringing my Floyd equipped charvel. The Floyd is top mounted and when its sitting parallel to the the body I can barely pull up one semitone. After the restringing the guitar the Floyd is sitting forwards I sort of prefer it this way, now I can pull up the trem more.

Is it fine this way? Or should I bring the Floyd back down parallel to the body?
 
Re: Floyd Dilemma

a floyd is supposed to be parallel to the body for proper tuning stability.

the non-recessed routes on the charvels are old school. They aren't meant for pulling up on.

If you want to pull up on a floyd, it needs to have a recessed top route. Angling it forward upsets the balance between string tension and trem spring tension. For a Floyd to maintain tuning stability, string tension and spring tension MUST be perfectly balanced - when it is balanced, the baseplate of the floyd will be parallel to the top of the body.
 
Re: Floyd Dilemma

Thanks for the quick reply CTN. I always brought the floyd parallel before but the way it ended up after the string change got me thinking.

Then I'll just be bringing it back down now.
 
Re: Floyd Dilemma

Thanks for the quick reply CTN. I always brought the floyd parallel before but the way it ended up after the string change got me thinking.

Then I'll just be bringing it back down now.

Yeah its just matter of balancing against the two forces of the string and springs.
 
Re: Floyd Dilemma

If you want the bridge to be higher off the body so you can pull it up to a higher pitch, just shim the neck back a wee bit and reset the bridge/string height. As for the bridge tilting forward after the string change, did you tune it higher or change to a larger string gauge? Ether one would do it.
 
Re: Floyd Dilemma

For a Floyd Rose to have any stability the knife edges MUST be in a position against the posts that only occurs when the baseplate of the vibrato is parallel to the body. You cannot have it tilted like a vintage Fender strat vibrato.

Also, if you want to raise the bridge, DON'T TURN THE HEIGHT POSTS UNDER TENSION! The tension from strings that pull the bridge forward and tight against the posts will cause metal-to-metal grinding when you turn the posts, thus dulling the knife edges and absolutely killing any chance of a stable Floyd Rose. You have to take the entire bridge out, turn the posts, and re-assemble in trial and error. It sounds tedious. but it comes with the territory.
 
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Re: Floyd Dilemma

For a Floyd Rose to have any stability the knife edges MUST be in a position against the posts that only occurs when the baseplate of the vibrato is parallel to the body. You cannot have it tilted like a vintage Fender strat vibrato.

Also, if you want to raise the bridge, DON'T TURN THE HEIGHT POSTS UNDER TENSION! The tension from strings that pull the bridge forward and tight against the posts will cause metal-to-metal grinding when you turn the posts, thus dulling the knife edges and absolutely killing any chance of a stable Floyd Rose. You have to take the entire bridge out, turn the posts, and re-assemble in trial and error. It sounds tedious. but it comes with the territory.

The first half is true. But the second half If you have an OFR or Schaller made this does not apply. The licensed floyds yea those you would have to decrease tension but the OFR you can adjust the post at tension. I did it a couple times and no tuning or stability problems what so ever but I have a OFR not a licensed one.
 
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Re: Floyd Dilemma

Ditto that. Good quality bridges with hardened steel knife edges and studs will be fine with adjustments under tension.
 
Re: Floyd Dilemma

I agree with Rockstar216 and LonePhantom. I have adjusted my 1982/1983 OFR many times with no problems and it is full floating with the wood screw style posts.
 
Re: Floyd Dilemma

This is why I go for recessed top routes - all I seem to want to do on my floyd roses are huge dive bombs haha. A guitar without that routing wouldn't be worth it for my use.
 
Re: Floyd Dilemma

I'd add, that adjusting height while under full tension doesn't really dull the knife edges of a high quality trem, but instead grooves the trem posts. So while the trem might not be hurt, the posts are and soon need replacing if perfect tuning stability is sought. Learned that the hard way :)
 
Re: Floyd Dilemma

You will only experience wear if you adjust frequently. The idea is to set it and forget it, not adjust it every week.
 
Re: Floyd Dilemma

a floyd is supposed to be parallel to the body for proper tuning stability.
...

For a Floyd Rose to have any stability the knife edges MUST be in a position against the posts that only occurs when the baseplate of the vibrato is parallel to the body. You cannot have it tilted like a vintage Fender strat vibrato.
...

Sorry bros, but NO.

A properly set up Floyd is parallel to the plane that the fretboard is on, the angle on the posts is negligible when it`s not extreme ( that of a Fender strat factory setup would already be too much in most situations, that part is correct.)

The reason for this is simple to explain: If you have a guitar such as a San Dimas Soloist /Rhoads, Les Paul, Explorer, or ProMod with an angled neck, even if it is just 1°, and set the Floyd so it's parallel to the body, then any intonation adjustment will automatically affect the action by ever so slightly raising or lowering the individual strings as the saddle is moved. This is bad.

You can test this easily by setting the action w/ the saddle at it`s forward travel limit, setting the baseplate just a degree or so off the neck plane, then moving teh saddle back all the way to the other extreme. You will have a measurable difference in string heigt, and that is bad, because intonation is set up last after everything else is spot on. The last thing you want is for the intonation setup to negate the time and effort spent getting the action exactly where you like it.

Admittedly, in most cases, this is not a "real" problem. But if you have a shredder`s action of 1/16" or less and an inclined neck, you run the very real risk of getting single string buzzing due to uneven string height, even though the radius of the saddles was set properly before you set the intonation. The low E and (already problematic) G are most likely to get knackered by this.

To visualize this principle, this imagine a "normal" even bridge saddle curve. Now imagine the uneven angle of the bridge saddles as you go across the strings (when viewed from above). The further you divert from the neck plane, the more your string height is going to look like the intonation line, ie. the more the individual string height will vary out of spec from the curve you set.

The reason for the common misconception that it needs to be parallel to the body lies in the fact that MOST guitars that have a Floyd are superstrat designs with "flat" neck angles, especially on recessed trems. But alas, not all. My Rhoads for example has about 6 or 7° of neck angle, an action of 1/32, and is tuned to B. If I do not set the plate perfectly parallel to the neck (within about .5°), the guitar is either unplayable due to buzzing or cannot be made to feel right due to the g and low e being wierdly high, depending on which direction I`m skewed in. The same holds true for Phoenix and my Model 6, though to a lesser degree, primarily becasue the string`s vibrational arc is not as wide due to them being in standard tuning.

Cheers :beerchug:
 
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