Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

Xeromus

Tone Ninja
I'm thinking about using an OFR on my next project. I don't know if their saddles are individually adjustable and I couldn't find any info on the floyd rose site about saddle radius either. I was going to do a 12 inch fretboard radius but I want the radius to match the bridge that I install. Anyone know more about this?
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

well this was going to be for my warmoth build. I might just have to call them and ask about the bridge and locking nuts they stock. if it ends up being a hassle I'll go with wilkinson.
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

the change from 12 to 14 isn't that bad i go from playing my LPs to one of my teles which is a 14 degree or my schecter and i get adjusted real quick...take a trip to GC and play a les paul for a bit and then go over and play a typical ibanez RG or schecter and don't look deep into quality just see what the radius change does to you if anything. i have so many guitars that i'm no longer too picky i can play a 9.5 a 10.5 a 12 or a 14 with no problem i just hate vintage 7.25 radius.


-Mike
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

XSSIVE said:
the change from 12 to 14 isn't that bad i go from playing my LPs to one of my teles which is a 14 degree or my schecter and i get adjusted real quick...take a trip to GC and play a les paul for a bit and then go over and play a typical ibanez RG or schecter and don't look deep into quality just see what the radius change does to you if anything. i have so many guitars that i'm no longer too picky i can play a 9.5 a 10.5 a 12 or a 14 with no problem i just hate vintage 7.25 radius.


-Mike

I'm with you on that. Like my new carvin is 14" radius and most of the guitars I've owned in the past have been that also, like schecters. I just wanted to know what to expect ahead of time before I order stuff from warmoth.
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

if your good with a 14 then why change, just go with the 14 and call it a day since it seems to work for most other companies when using a floyd!

-Mike
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

JohnJohn said:
If you want to go with a higher camber radius what about using a Wilkenson?

I think that's what I'm going to end up doing. The floyd idea is starting to sound like a hassle AND it would be more expensive.
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

I'm thinking about using an OFR on my next project. I don't know if their saddles are individually adjustable and I couldn't find any info on the floyd rose site about saddle radius either. I was going to do a 12 inch fretboard radius but I want the radius to match the bridge that I install. Anyone know more about this?

Hey man I just registered to answer your question, probably three year old post I didn't even look but still it will be hear if others stumble on it. Floyd's and Ibanez double locking trems are very flexible for radius. Can't tell ya exactly what it will come radiused to, as it is not coming on a specific guitar. But it's as easy as removing the screw in the front of the saddle also screw used to adjust string length/intonation. And installing or removing the included shims. Each saddle can be raised or lowered. Make sure you ask dealer that the shims are included. I believe the original Floyd's and Schaller Trems do come included. If they don't it would be quite simple to get some feeler gauges at auto zone to 5 to 10 thousands of inch and cut to size make your own. But the ones come in Ibanez Edge series trem have like a coating that makes them almost adhere to the saddle and saddle plate. Hope that helped ya a bit to make decision. However I have seen several luthiers say your action is better to have bridge a bit flatter than exact board radius. That is probably opinion thing but just wanted to let ya know anyway. Don't forget the nut. There are different sizes and radius available they always list as R4 R3 etc. for various radii. Or you can use a good bone nut matched radius with locking tuners to get rid of the lock unlock nut. I have considered doing that on few of my projects . Good luck
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

Holy necro-bump! I'd be surprised if the OP still had the guitar in question, let alone was still looking for a bridge.
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

He might even be dead by now.
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

Yeah, something seemed wrong when Xssissive says he's no Floyd pro and sold all his Floyd axes but one lol
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

I agree with ackj77 - I think my Floyd is set up for a 14" (as it fits my old 85 Kramer perfectly) but you can shim them.
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

The OFR is a 10" radius without shims, and 12" with the factory shim that goes under the B to A Saddles. The Nuts are 10" or 15" depending on which one it is. Each saddle can be shimmed to create any radius.
 
I've never received any OFR bridges with shims under the saddles, I always have to buy the shims separately and do it myself
 
Re: Floyd Rose and fretboard radius

Floyd saddles are adjustable by shimming them.

Here's the issue with Floyds:

1) Floyd bridges (at least OFRs) come radiused about 10.5". That is nominal, they aren't parts for the space shuttle and aren't machined all that tight. Expect anywhere from 9.5-11.5 actual.

2) Although you can buy shims from Allparts designed for that purpose, they are too thick to fine tune the radius (they measure about .007"). I start with those then make my own fine tune shims from folding tin foil and cutting it to that size, so I can make shims smaller than the .007" stock ones. Sounds like a small number, but I'd never for a second tolerate that big a mis-match on any other type of bridge, I wont tolerate it on a Floyd either.

3) OFR nuts are also 10.5" nominal, although you can get one that is 15" but only in wide 1&11/16". They are also not machined very well, which means that even if your guitar had that radius at the nut, odds are it still wouldn't match properly, and it is also likely that at least one or more strings leave the nut behind the front, which will cause intonation and buzzing issues. John Suhr has a few rants on that as well if you do a web search.

4) To solve that, I actually cut, grind, and radius the nut, because again, I wouldnt tolerate that crap for a second on any other kind of nut and I will not tolerate it just because it is a Floyd. It is no joke cutting and grinding hardened steel to match radius correctly. I'm one of the few techs in the country that will actually do that work, but I see so many Floyds where the radius match is so piss-poor (16" guitar, 10.5" floyd..) and either the outer strings or inner strings are way too far above the frets, there is really no other option. Not if you want a floyd equiped guitar to play correctly.

Note this applies even to guitars where the Floyd type bridge is supposedly made to match the guitar. For instance, IBanez Wizard necks have a 16.9" (430mm) radius, the Edge is supposed to match that. Well it doesn't, and it requires the same adjustments any other Floyd type does, ditto Jackson, etc.

Floyds are a pain in the ass. Once cut and radiused properly a Floyd equiped guitar can play as well as any other, but it is a serious amount of work to get it correct, taking much longer than something like a strat or LP, and very, very few people know how to do it right, though a lot will claim they do. I've seen too many craptastic floyd setups (read: the vast majority) to believe it.
 
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