Floyds...Top mount or set in??

BloodRose

Professional Scapegoat
I'm sorry for the newbish question, but just wanted to get some opinions.. (pros vs cons)

For years, I've always liked the look of set in floyds better. Seemed more modern to me and I always kinda assumed that action could be set lower since the bridge is lower.. (yeah, duh...)

Anyhow, lately my main players have been my Charvels and one is top mount and one is flush and I've learned there is no difference as far as what a good setup can accomplish and all. I do, for some reason tend to like the top mounts better these days, but can't really say why. Probably just due to finding it alittle easier for maintenance. And I would assume it's better to keep more wood in the body. I also have to wonder as the US and Japanese Pro mods were top and the new Mex ones are flush. And alot of Charvel's special runs use top mounts..?

So, I'm tossing this out there. Are there any specific things that make one better than the other? Is it pretty much just player preference?

Thanks for your input!
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

A recessed mount just adds a 2nd set of variables to the equation and just offers more and different sounds attainable. Technique will come with practice and like most things is just a matter of personal preference which one you like . I prefer a recess route for a Floyd but you should do it only if you have good woodworking skills and are sure you can do it correctly. I routed my Strat a little too deep so it will lay the strings on the neck if you pull it all the way back. Jackson does a great route on their Floyds and at about 1/4 " depth you get plenty of pull and some extra space but no bad side effects. Will be doing a route on my Futura pretty soon now that I have the right tools and I am going to make some (Jackson ,Stewmac ) templates after buying a jig for making them. My 2 silvers , with all things guitar related it only matters what YOU like and how it sounds to YOU.
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

Other than being able to pull up more on the recessed Floyd the only other difference is a slightly larger block on the bottom of the bridge.
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

Thanks for the input guys! Oinkus, I don't have the tools or skill to do the routing myself. So I was mostly talking of factory build.
Allbutromeo, I would've guessed the stock blocks to be about the same. I'm really big on updating to the big brass blocks anyhow, so I've done that mod to my Floyd equipped guits, both top and sunken. My main players have Ti string holder blocks and stainless locking screws too. I've had stock blocks break and although I like the look of the stock black screws better (black floyds) the stainless don't rust and are a tiny bit heavier for more mass.

Thanks again!
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

If anything the blocks of the top-mount Floyds would be bigger, or rather, longer, due to the longer distance between the baseplate and the back of the guitar, but like you said a big-block would render that point moot.

I've tried both and to be honest I haven't felt the need to make pull-ups a part of my playing so I generally block them. Makes tuning easier and down-tuning on the fly possible.

A unique exception to this is my Stinnett in that it looks like it's routed as a recessed Floyd but in truth, it has been built so that the big-block rests on the wall of the route, essentially blocking it by design! The benefits are that it is the block itself touching the body of the guitar instead of the base-plate which means that, like a recessed Floyd, there's the ability to adjust the height of the trem to taste. Makes string height setups easier too!
It was Will's idea and I have to admit if I had the ability, all my guitars would have been made that way!
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

If anything the blocks of the top-mount Floyds would be bigger, or rather, longer, due to the longer distance between the baseplate and the back of the guitar, but like you said a big-block would render that point moot.

I've tried both and to be honest I haven't felt the need to make pull-ups a part of my playing so I generally block them. Makes tuning easier and down-tuning on the fly possible.

A unique exception to this is my Stinnett in that it looks like it's routed as a recessed Floyd but in truth, it has been built so that the big-block rests on the wall of the route, essentially blocking it by design! The benefits are that it is the block itself touching the body of the guitar instead of the base-plate which means that, like a recessed Floyd, there's the ability to adjust the height of the trem to taste. Makes string height setups easier too!
It was Will's idea and I have to admit if I had the ability, all my guitars would have been made that way!

Hey Bro! Long time no speak! I hope you are well! Yeah, I know what you are saying.. On one of the Charvel Pro Mods I had (and foolishly sold it), I put a big block in it that was really too big. (I wanted to try the biggest size) It rested against the wall like you were saying. Matter of fact, it was too big and the trem wouldn't lay flat, so I had to actually route out some of the wood in the cavity so that it would rest against the wall and let the trem lay flat. It was a bit of a pain, but ended up being pretty cool. Very solid player, could still dive and could change tuning without hardly any hassle. So yes, understand exactly what you are saying!
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

Have to say a better block improves the sound and sustain a small amount add a better claw and noiseless springs and you have about everything that you can do to a tremolo going. Cannot argue with better screws and saddle blocks either , a little plumbers tape for the tremolo bar threads and you address every issue a Floyd has built into it. My Jackson RR 5 FR is the most stable guitar in my herd , I could leave it sitting for 3 months and it would still be in tune. That is just wrong by all the laws of physics.Finding the right spot for a Floyd makes all the difference in the world too , most comfortable amount of tension for you is by far the hardest thing to determine. You won't even know you have the ability to make it better until you run through all the changes yourself , tighten/loosen the springs , use more or less springs to change the tension. Being able to work on your own guitar will give you what you want a lot easier then trying to tell someone else what you are looking for.I ramble on...
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

I play both but my favorite setup is a topmount with a pretty hefty neck angle like on my V90. It makes the transition from a tuneomatic to Floyd a little less awkward, imho.
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

Have to say a better block improves the sound and sustain a small amount add a better claw and noiseless springs and you have about everything that you can do to a tremolo going. Cannot argue with better screws and saddle blocks either , a little plumbers tape for the tremolo bar threads and you address every issue a Floyd has built into it. My Jackson RR 5 FR is the most stable guitar in my herd , I could leave it sitting for 3 months and it would still be in tune. That is just wrong by all the laws of physics.Finding the right spot for a Floyd makes all the difference in the world too , most comfortable amount of tension for you is by far the hardest thing to determine. You won't even know you have the ability to make it better until you run through all the changes yourself , tighten/loosen the springs , use more or less springs to change the tension. Being able to work on your own guitar will give you what you want a lot easier then trying to tell someone else what you are looking for.I ramble on...

Thanks for the input! Yeah, I almost forgot that my top couple of Charvels also have been upgraded with a brass claw and raw vintage springs. I haven't tried the coated, noiseless springs yet, but I like the feel of the Raw vintage and I can use an extra spring and still have the same feel. The extra spring also gives more stability. So yeah, pretty much have all the bells and whistles on the trems. Have stainless screws on the locking nut, stainless saddle mounting screws, stainless string lock screws, brass fine tuners, brass claw, Ti insert blocks, larger brass blocks and the raw vintage springs. So, the trems are very stable, have more mass and give me a thicker tone and the stainless screws prevent rusting.

What does the plumber's tape do? Eliminate play in the arm? I assume this would really only be beneficial if the arm is left on the guitar.?? I keep mine in the cases, so the arm is off and on alot.
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

That little bit of play that just has no usefulness is removed with the tape , if you have a steady hand and do it very neatly you can remove the arm and replace it a few times. Tape costs pennies and it takes 3 seconds to add some if you are in a hurry so there really is no loss involved. My guitars are on stands and hangers so they keep the arms in them. BTW the heavy duty noiseless springs Adam Reiver sells at FU upgrades are a whole nother ball of wax , can add a huge amount of stiffness to a weak spring setup or a downtuned guitar. I just use the normal black coated ones and they are really much better springs , I am a standard 3 spring guy but can and will change that to make something feel right to me. Wish I could afford one of the Ti Floyds with all of the Ti pieces and parts , people rave about how much better they sound. Apparently Titanium is very musical , I have a chunk here I need to make into a block but just don't have the right tools for the job and haven't got around to going somewhere and using someone elses tools.
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

Perhaps it's all in the setup, but the recessed seemed to "float more" in my opinion...I could flick the tremolo bar and get a growling sound that lasts longer in a recessed than the top mounts. Other than that I really don't notice any other differences aside from being able to pull up father... I don't really have a preference on either way.
 
Re: Floyds...Top mount or set in??

That little bit of play that just has no usefulness is removed with the tape , if you have a steady hand and do it very neatly you can remove the arm and replace it a few times. Tape costs pennies and it takes 3 seconds to add some if you are in a hurry so there really is no loss involved. My guitars are on stands and hangers so they keep the arms in them. BTW the heavy duty noiseless springs Adam Reiver sells at FU upgrades are a whole nother ball of wax , can add a huge amount of stiffness to a weak spring setup or a downtuned guitar. I just use the normal black coated ones and they are really much better springs , I am a standard 3 spring guy but can and will change that to make something feel right to me. Wish I could afford one of the Ti Floyds with all of the Ti pieces and parts , people rave about how much better they sound. Apparently Titanium is very musical , I have a chunk here I need to make into a block but just don't have the right tools for the job and haven't got around to going somewhere and using someone elses tools.

Ok, Good info! thanks! you talking about the white teflon tape?
Yeah, those Ti trems look killer! Big money though! Ouch! It must be musical, cuz to me, it seems odd. I mean you buy the big blocks and all to add mass for more sustain. But when you buy a TI trem or block, it's much lighter and therefore would seem to me that it wouldnt sustain as well. But I guess it's in the size and NOT the weight. So, it will have the size mass, but not the weight.
I got the Ti blocks cuz one of my cast ones was broken. One of these days Ill try the springs you mentioned.. Thanks

Treyhaislip, yeah, if the setup is right, I get more back pull on recessed I think..
 
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