Fret Level Project

[Top-L]

I have purchased some equipment from amazon to perform my first fret level/crown. I have three guitars that need some attention, rather than spend $500 to get them done, I spent $75 in parts.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DH7N7F8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Level kit with fret rocker
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPSYB5U/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 16" Leveling beam
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00292IOAA/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Files
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002FSHVM/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 320 grit stikit tape


I am going to follow this method. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBRude9l0Tg He uses files to shape the frets.

I will have the smaller fret level block from the kit and the longer 16" one. For fine fret treatment I have the files, the fret crown tools from the kit, and many grits of sandpaper. Let me know if there is anything I am missing besides tape, xacto, marker. . .

Will post pics when the job is done. Only fretwork I have done was a successful spot repair to bring down some high frets with a credit card, file, and sandpaper.

 

[DreX]

Re: Fret Level Project

The biggest things I learned after following this and a couple other videos was to use several layers of masking tape. The guy in the video has lots of practice and can get away with one thin layer, but I would slip the file off the fret and down onto the tape once in a while, and one later of masking tape wasn't enough of a cushion.

The other thing that took a few tries was trying to figure out how round versus pointy to make the top of the frets. I thought it looked good, but I strung up the guitar only to find a ton of contact between the string and fret, and it make a lot of friction noise when I did string bends, so I had to had to set up the whole thing again. I should have looked at the side profile of the frets and compared it to another functioning guitar.

In addition to sand paper I'd get an assortment of hard backed micro mesh pads ranging up to 12000 grit for the final polishing instead of going at it with a dremel attachment like he does in the video. Going over frets in general with some high grit micro mesh pads is a very fast way to refresh frets between restringing a guitar. 8000 to 12000 is too fine to reshape the frets at all, but it gets rid of the oxidation and makes them feel smooth again.

 

[Top-L]

Re: Fret Level Project

When you leveled the frets, did you start out with the board completely flat or was there some relief? I have heard both done.

Also, every neck is different, some truss rods add relief gradually over a length, I have one guitar that the truss adds relief, but the 5-7 fret range is relatively high - seems most of the relief comes before that. Even if I level them with zero relief, I may end up with a similar problem, so figure that maybe leving with some backbow(?) would cut down those frets?

 

[DreX]

Re: Fret Level Project

It should definitely be flat as possible. Leveling with relief will cause the frets on the ends to be shorter than the frets in the middle, which is just all around bad.

For some reason my one piece maple neck Teles wont flatted out perfectly either. I think you just have to get it as flat as possible in that case. The less flat it is, the more you would grind down some frets unnecessarily and hasten the need for a full refret.

 

[Top-L]

Re: Fret Level Project

It should definitely be flat as possible. Leveling with relief will cause the frets on the ends to be shorter than the frets in the middle, which is just all around bad.

For some reason my one piece maple neck Teles wont flatted out perfectly either. I think you just have to get it as flat as possible in that case. The less flat it is, the more you would grind down some frets unnecessarily and hasten the need for a full refret.

That makes sense. I opted not to get the level with the grooves cut for the frets. That lets you see how flat the board is, but I figure its more important to make sure the fret tops are even. If there is alot of mid neck wear, the neck could actually have a bit of backbow to remove the least material.

On second thoought, maybe I should order that special level to make sure the board is flat.. .

I have pretty high expectations. I have had some guitars plekked, but I have also had some hand done ones turn out just as well (actually better). I think the plek machine allows operators to cut some corners that impact the final product. (The plek machine for instance doesn't comprehend the unique temperament of the truss rod for each neck. It doesnt know how the relief will set once the truss is adjusted. All the operator does is adjust the truss until the least material is to be used, which means a working profile can be cut without a straight neck. )

 

[DreX]

Re: Fret Level Project

Yeah, eveness is the biggest factor, more so with the frets themselves than the actual neck, so it's good to have a rather long sanding block to make sure the frets are ground down in the most uniformly as possible. I gave the frets near the nut a few extra pass overs since the nut was in the way and didn't allow the sanding block to pass over them as completely as all the other frets.

Definitely start with the guitar you like the least, though. Maybe one with a bolt on neck. I was surprised buy how nicely my guitars played after a fret level, crown and polish. It makes you realize how much they skimp out on the fret work of mass produced guitars, and how nice the frets would have felt if there wasn't several months between when your guitar was made and when you actually got your hands on it.