Myaccount876
Amira-Maker
Re: Gluing fingerboard advice.
Yeah I don't see any point of Titebond II. For soluble applications, Titebond I. For waterproof applications, Titebond III. Never, EVER, laminate anything like a top or fretboard with TB III or any waterproof glue. Made that mistake once before. Make it once.
Really the TB III generally should be for gluing pieces for a body edge-to-edge only (really strong wood glue for one of the weaker mechanical joints). If for some reason you need to separate the body blank before any work on it, table saw and re-do. After that, you shouldn't and better not have to separate them ever again.
But man 36 frets is crazy if you are talking about purely semi-tone fret intervals. I need to make a neck soon that has 36 frets but the first octave have quarter-tones. So 24 frets for the first octave, 12 for the second octave. Would be really useful for maqams which I use A LOT.
Yeah I don't see any point of Titebond II. For soluble applications, Titebond I. For waterproof applications, Titebond III. Never, EVER, laminate anything like a top or fretboard with TB III or any waterproof glue. Made that mistake once before. Make it once.
Really the TB III generally should be for gluing pieces for a body edge-to-edge only (really strong wood glue for one of the weaker mechanical joints). If for some reason you need to separate the body blank before any work on it, table saw and re-do. After that, you shouldn't and better not have to separate them ever again.
But man 36 frets is crazy if you are talking about purely semi-tone fret intervals. I need to make a neck soon that has 36 frets but the first octave have quarter-tones. So 24 frets for the first octave, 12 for the second octave. Would be really useful for maqams which I use A LOT.
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