Hardest thing to solder in electronics

Re: Hardest thing to solder in electronics

Ouch. I didn't even know somebody famous got zapped.

Why can't you get around it? If you have complete shielding around cavity and cables in the guitar you should be fine noise-wise.

It's true that putting in a small and quick fuse will at least save your life but I really don't see the need for the risk of connecting the strings in the first place.

You might want to visit guitarnuts.com. To me, John's site is a little difficult to navigate, but there's some good information on shielding and grounding.
 
Re: Hardest thing to solder in electronics

I need to get some better shielding going. My Strat has heavy kitchen foil in it and it works, but it could be better. Even with shielding, I've never been able to eliminate noise with that ground not there, hence the cap. I'd like to though.

Fender constructions usually has unshielded wire between the pickup and the electronics cavity. And the back of the pickup isn't shielded either. That's a long cable, you pick up as much noise as with a non-shielded cavity, if not more.

At the least you should wrap the pickup wires in grounded foil, or replace them with shielded wire. It can't hurt to have the back of the pickups shielded, too, but I don't think that's nearly as important as the wire problem.
 
Re: Hardest thing to solder in electronics

Fender constructions usually has unshielded wire between the pickup and the electronics cavity. And the back of the pickup isn't shielded either. That's a long cable, you pick up as much noise as with a non-shielded cavity, if not more.

At the least you should wrap the pickup wires in grounded foil, or replace them with shielded wire. It can't hurt to have the back of the pickups shielded, too, but I don't think that's nearly as important as the wire problem.

Mine Am. Std. has a pool route so the whole thing is covered in foil. I need to get some 2-conductor shielded cable to use between the jack and controls. I know that'll help some too. My other 2 Strats are top routed as well and still need shielding but they are quiet as-is.
 
Re: Hardest thing to solder in electronics

I would think an 80 watt would be too hot. Could burn up the pots.

I have a 40 watt Ungar, adjustable temp. iron station. It's not all that great. I just got a cheap $20 station from Radio Shack with switchable 20/40 watt that works a lot better. Heats up really fast. I can solder in half the time with the Radio Shack brand... it rocks.
 
Re: Hardest thing to solder in electronics

I don't own Fender style products (and they great). But, if you are struggling with a garbage solder iron....

I would take 1980 or earlier US penny (or several inches of stripped 12 gauge copper wire) and some ROSIN core flux solder...and take the spring claw to the garage.

I would then grind the surface clean, and solder the penny to the claw with a common butane torch. There is no reason to think one must attach the ground as the last step in guitar wiring scheme. Heck, just do the claw ground first[/]! Carry the well-soldered unit back to the guitar....and complete the job by soldering a thin wire to the heavy jumper.

Thin solder, can be "made thicker", by taking a pull of it...and doubling it over a couple of times and twisting it into a bigger stranded rope.
 
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Re: Hardest thing to solder in electronics

As an aside, I've been thinking that soldering a ground wire to a Tele bridge would be a nightmare because of the mass of metal. Any tips or alternative suggestions? I was thinking maybe I could utilise the pickup mounting screws. What do you think??
 
Re: Hardest thing to solder in electronics

Use a Dremel tool with a small sanding/file attachment, rough up a spot on the back of the pot where you want to solder and a 40 watt will instantly get the job done as the solder has a place to seat solidly (in the roughed out spot). Otherwise, your kinda trying to apply solder to a mirror-like finish...which.....doesnt work. I do the same thing to shiny jack lugs, etc etc....
 
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