How to check neck relief?

[Rex_Rocker]

I've read you check it by pressing down on the string on first fret and the last fret. I've also read you press down on the first fret and where the neck meets the body, which is how I've done it. But my point is you get different measurements by pressing down on these two spots.

I would assume the correct way of checking it is at the first fret and where the truss rod ends, no? Where would that be on a Gibson Les Paul? Anyone know? Or is that incorrect?

Sorry if it's kind of a silly question, I just feel confused about it.

 

[Securb]

I have always done it by eye. I dial in the neck, run up and down the neck looking for buzzing and dead spots then adjust to taste.

 

[Mincer]

I always did it at the first fret and where the neck meets the body. I then either use feeler gauges or the string itself to see the relief.

 

[Rex_Rocker]

I have always done it by eye. I dial in the neck, run up and down the neck looking for buzzing and dead spots then adjust to taste.

Thank you!

No, yeah, I know the basics of guitar setup. I've always set my guitars up because I grew up in a city where there wasn't anyone reliable to take them to. I was just wondering in a more concrete way on where the measurement should be taken. I'm kind of a sucker for actual numerical values, LOL. I work in 3D modeling which is pretty much just all geometry. I like to know the actual value for reproductibility too in case something goes out of whack because of temperature changes and whatnot to have the peace of mind that I can get my guitar playing the same way as it did when I was enjoying it.

 

[Rex_Rocker]

I always did it at the first fret and where the neck meets the body. I then either use feeler gauges or the string itself to see the relief.

I always wondered, though... for a Les Paul and an SG, those are two different spots that yield different values. Which one is the "right" one in that case?

 

[ErikH]

I always did it at the first fret and where the neck meets the body. I then either use feeler gauges or the string itself to see the relief.

This is how I've always done it. Ends up being around the 7th-8th fret to check the relief.

 

[ErikH]

I always wondered, though... for a Les Paul and an SG, those are two different spots that yield different values. Which one is the "right" one in that case?

The neck meets the body in different ways on a SG vs Les Paul. There's a small shelf where the SG neck sits on in addition to the tenon in to the body. The neck meets that shelf on the back of it around 18th-19th fret. On a Les Paul, the neck is up against the body in the lower bout at around 17th-18th fret. No matter the guitar, I go with where the neck meets the body.

 

[Chistopher]

Capo on first, barrel the highest fret, and match a buisness card to the radius of the neck and then make sure the strings just barely don't touch it at the 12th

 

[eclecticsynergy]

I've always done first fret/last fret regardless of the guitar design.
Like many, I usually just eyeball it rather than measuring.

 

[GuitarStv]

Capo the first fret and hold down the 18th fret. There should be a little space between the eight fret and the string, but just barely any - like a hair less than the thickness of a business card.

 

[ehdwuld]

some necks
the frets "fall off" after the 14th fret

 

[orpheo]

I use Stewmac's relief gauge. Works amazing. No need to hold down a string or whatever. Sometimes you gotta adjust a neck and don't have strings on it (like when you level a neck). Otherwise, hold string first fret and approx 16th (where body and neck meet). It doesn't matter how you do it as long as you do it like that consistently.

 

[Mincer]

I use Stewmac's relief gauge. Works amazing. No need to hold down a string or whatever. Sometimes you gotta adjust a neck and don't have strings on it (like when you level a neck). Otherwise, hold string first fret and approx 16th (where body and neck meet). It doesn't matter how you do it as long as you do it like that consistently.

I just looked that up, as I hadn't heard of it. It looks pretty amazing, and I can see how it would be awesome to have if you were doing this for a living. It might be overkill for the average player who does some tinkering with their instruments. And like all Sew Mac stuff, it is $$.

 

[ehdwuld]

I just looked that up, as I hadn't heard of it. It looks pretty amazing, and I can see how it would be awesome to have if you were doing this for a living. It might be overkill for the average player who does some tinkering with their instruments. And like all Sew Mac stuff, it is $$.

Dial Caliper on a straight edge

a dial caliper from amazon and a 2 foot level and BOOM yougot1

 

[Aceman]

A long straight metal ruler will work also.

But I do 1st / meets body. I am also a set neck guy.

 

[Mincer]

I also have a notched straight edge that I use. That works well as you don't have to hold down strings. It helps to have a light facing you so you can see the gap better.

 

[GuitarDoc]

Really, the different techniques and specific measurements are only for repeatability (on THAT instrument). Because on one instrument you may get very low relief with no buzz, but on another guitar those same settings my get buzz everywhere. And it depends on that particular guitar player's particular playing style as to what relief works best.

So when it comes down to it, no matter how precise the numbers are, they are really only a starting place if you want your guitar to play as good as it can...for you and your unique way of playing.

I always set up my guitars with the lowest action possible, and where there is no fret buzz anywhere on the neck. That way is usually good for most players. But if someone wants higher action or more relief, it's a very easy fix

 

[GuitarDoc]

I think we stress about this kinda stuff too much.