Identify Body Wood Type?
- Thread starter jfharper
- Start date
Re: Identify Body Wood Type?
Tuners going in. When I ordered, Warmoth didn't carry the staggered. I didn't want staggered but they said these are the lower ones ~18mm vs the 19.5mm height. When I installed I was concerned about how low the string hole was until I matched with the retainer bar and all looks good.
As its materializing, I'm feeling like I'm not worthy to play this thing. ;p
Tuners going in. When I ordered, Warmoth didn't carry the staggered. I didn't want staggered but they said these are the lower ones ~18mm vs the 19.5mm height. When I installed I was concerned about how low the string hole was until I matched with the retainer bar and all looks good.
As its materializing, I'm feeling like I'm not worthy to play this thing. ;p
Re: Identify Body Wood Type?
I needed to rout a recess for the bridge because the neck sits low in the body...came out pretty good. I measured everything a million times and used a benchtop mill with 4 flute end mills. Also, as originally planned, changed the nut to black R10 (15" radius I think) from R3 gold (12" radius) as my neck measures 14." Never liked the gold next to the neck...black creates a nice barrier between the light maples fretboard and black headstock and reduces the "bling" the gold produces. I think gold and black are the go to colors for this axe, I was just concerned with the gold being too "blingy."
Nevertheless, I think it's turning out. I have an under string radius gauge in the images as I'm setting the bridge radius with sims. I did a temp tune last night and there was an impressive amount of tone and warmth produced...given no electronics yet. I was also amazed at the tuning stability produced by all the components (locking tuners, etc). Other guitars I've owned have had minor fluctuations while tuning, but this thing has no fluctuation. Need to shim the nut so I can set intonation, align and mount the pickups, etc...
I also need to clean the frets as they are green with buildup. Anyone know what to use and how to do? Naphtha maybe? Will naphtha remove the finish on the maple fretboard?
This is a fun first build, learning a lot, more to it then I thought. Might do another later when funds become available.
I needed to rout a recess for the bridge because the neck sits low in the body...came out pretty good. I measured everything a million times and used a benchtop mill with 4 flute end mills. Also, as originally planned, changed the nut to black R10 (15" radius I think) from R3 gold (12" radius) as my neck measures 14." Never liked the gold next to the neck...black creates a nice barrier between the light maples fretboard and black headstock and reduces the "bling" the gold produces. I think gold and black are the go to colors for this axe, I was just concerned with the gold being too "blingy."
Nevertheless, I think it's turning out. I have an under string radius gauge in the images as I'm setting the bridge radius with sims. I did a temp tune last night and there was an impressive amount of tone and warmth produced...given no electronics yet. I was also amazed at the tuning stability produced by all the components (locking tuners, etc). Other guitars I've owned have had minor fluctuations while tuning, but this thing has no fluctuation. Need to shim the nut so I can set intonation, align and mount the pickups, etc...
I also need to clean the frets as they are green with buildup. Anyone know what to use and how to do? Naphtha maybe? Will naphtha remove the finish on the maple fretboard?
This is a fun first build, learning a lot, more to it then I thought. Might do another later when funds become available.
Re: Identify Body Wood Type?
Some final notes...I had some trouble lowering the action with size 9 strings. The neck didnt have enough forward bow when manufactured, maybe that's by design, but I switched to 10s which are prolly the correct size to use and now I get enough neck relief to lower the action to a good height.
There are a few more things to dial in...I'm getting a couple scitar strings, very minor, I'm prolly just being a perfectionist, but I've tried super gluing the left right pivot of the saddles but that didnt fix it. It sounds like its coming from the saddle. I think it's coming from the rough surface the string rests on, on the bridge. I'm going to look into smoothing this out if possible to try and the G and B to get perfectly clean.
Overall, the guitar sounds really amazing with any amp or amp sim I run, even with the above issues, which really don't interfere much with playability.
BTW, I used Megyers Cleaner wax and isopropyl alcohol to clean frets, worked fast and really good with no impact on the maple finish.
Some final notes...I had some trouble lowering the action with size 9 strings. The neck didnt have enough forward bow when manufactured, maybe that's by design, but I switched to 10s which are prolly the correct size to use and now I get enough neck relief to lower the action to a good height.
There are a few more things to dial in...I'm getting a couple scitar strings, very minor, I'm prolly just being a perfectionist, but I've tried super gluing the left right pivot of the saddles but that didnt fix it. It sounds like its coming from the saddle. I think it's coming from the rough surface the string rests on, on the bridge. I'm going to look into smoothing this out if possible to try and the G and B to get perfectly clean.
Overall, the guitar sounds really amazing with any amp or amp sim I run, even with the above issues, which really don't interfere much with playability.
BTW, I used Megyers Cleaner wax and isopropyl alcohol to clean frets, worked fast and really good with no impact on the maple finish.
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Re: Identify Body Wood Type?
Thanks man. I'm really happy with it. I had some doubts while building if it was actually gonna turn out or be a piece of crap, but I learned there is a lot that can be done to fix and dial in guitars...it was a fun experience. After watching me, my boy says he wants to go this route with his second rig.
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So, I've been so impressed with this guitar over the last few years, I'd like to look into making another. Since Performance doesn't sell necks anymore, to the best of my knowledge, I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of a quality neck maker? Warmoth perhaps? I'm thinking of getting my body from them, but wasn't sure about the neck. I'm located in San Luis Obispo county, CA...might have to make a trip to Ernie Ball's place...maybe ask them to sell me a music man neck?
Chris Pile
Well-known member
Mahogany with maple top - just like a Les Paul.
Why are you using a locking nut AND locking tuners? Using one eliminates the need for the other?
Masta' C
Well-known member
What are you looking for in a neck? I have an unused super strat neck with locking nut shelf (R3, 1-11/16") in lightly flamed maple with a reverse headstock, abalone dot inlays, stainless jumbo frets, and Tru-Oil finish that was made for me by Ron Estrada (Mammoth Guitars & B.C. Rich Custom Shop). I've come to the realization that I simply don't have a home for it and I already have 2 other project guitars I'm currently trying to finish up that won't use a Floyd Rose. PM me if you're interested.
Beyond that:
- Guitar Mill
- Warmoth
- Best Guitar Parts
i wondered that too
It's been well established that the woods are curly maple top, mahogany/sapele body.
Just wanted to comment that the neck pocket was routed out to either lower the neck (to raise the action) or to change the neck angle to adjust action to better fit the bridge which was being used. As you found out, it was lowered too much to fit the bridge you are currently using which required you to also route out the bridge mounting area. You possibly could have avoided the need to rout the bridge by using neck shims.
Just wanted to comment that the neck pocket was routed out to either lower the neck (to raise the action) or to change the neck angle to adjust action to better fit the bridge which was being used. As you found out, it was lowered too much to fit the bridge you are currently using which required you to also route out the bridge mounting area. You possibly could have avoided the need to rout the bridge by using neck shims.
Hi, all, I'm back. To answer your questions...cuz I'm dumb.
Learn from your mistakes...right.I didn't understand that before, but now I get it...although the guitar stays in tune very well. I thought the locks were a convenience so you didn't have to wind the strings so much around each post.
I am battling some slight sitar type sounds on a couple strings, I've tried using those brass string saddle things that go under the string on the Floyd Rose bridge, but that didn't fix it. It has either gotten less over time...like a break in period, or I am getting used to it, but it's still there and those two problem strings just don't ring true like the others. I thought maybe it's in the nut and I should try going back to a traditional nut instead of locking...if I do, I'll be glad I got the locking tuners then, although they are short and I still have the string retainer guide thing installed on the head. The head already had the holes drilled for it...maybe Performance did that...don't know, but I either have drilled holes showing or leave the retainer installed...prolly that later I'll go with.
I also have some frets that I believe are higher than others as I have battled getting the action right. Currently I have some neck angle wedges installed to help with the action angle, but on some high e string notes and bends, I lose the sustain. I purchased a diamond fret crown tool because after inspecting the frets it looks like the tops are more flat than a round crown...maybe the neck was not ready for final play and I was supposed to crown the frets. I also got a sander block in case I need to sand them all to height before crowning. I haven't done that job yet, as I think it is going to be a job...remove the neck, tape around each fret, marker the frets with a sharpie, crown and hope I don't mess something up...etc. Part of me just wants to take it to MusicMan here in SLO, CA and have them set it up...but I don't think I want to rob myself of developing the life skill.
Anyway, I've found myself referencing this thread over the last few years to show friends the build and read the comments but finally decided to chime back in. Also, I thought I would mention I'm just beginning the process of building my own amp head. I'm going to use Jason Tong of Headfirst Amplification's design for his Jose Cali DIY build...that should be fun and quite an experience...I hope I can do it.
I must say, even though this guitar has things that still need to be dialed in, it is still my all time favorite over anything else I've ever played, which isn't saying much, but I'm sold on custom builds now thus the decision for the custom amp journey. From this, I'm understanding more and more why Eddie did this sort of thing, it's really a blast and once you build a knowledge through experience, AND mistakes...shoot even he mentioned ruining some guitars...although I haven't done that...yet, you can make some cool inventive decisions and maybe come up with something new, or at least something you really like. Like when I sold that 60s 50w Marshall, I just got tired of the tone...I didn't know back being 19 that I could mod the thing, I wasn't in the music "loop" enough to know I could take it to some place in Van Nuys and have a guy do some cool stuff to it. Effects can only go so far and can begin to "cloud" the tone that I believe needs to come from the true components of what you are playing. I think that is the thing that I admire most about Ed. I'm not so much a total VH fanboy, more like a fellow Californian who grew up learning to play with friends in my garage, having started out on my Dad's '58 Jazzmaster with a blues riff I quickly wanted to get away from and into more "appropriate" playing like what I gravitated towards from the mid 70s and 80s, that I found myself doing the same things...i.e. putting some Duncan PUs in that fender to get more of "the" sound I was after, but now being in my 50s going back to my roots and admiring the common tinkering we all do together.
Anyway, I thought I'd post and update on the guitar status.
