Jackson experts

[King IzzO)))]

Looking at Zerb and Newc, I've got 3 Jacksons I'm redoing and I've got a question. What radius do you set the bridge up for with the compound radius on the neck? Ideally I'm thinking it's gotta be something like 18", maybe even flatter, they're what, 16" at the heel? Do you have a setup you like to use for low action and as little buzz as possible? I've just been running my OFR's with no shims, but I think I can get a better setup by adjusting for the radius.

 

[vinta9e]

Re: Jackson experts

I've just been running my OFR's with no shims, but I think I can get a better setup by adjusting for the radius.

Yes, you can. :fing2:

The difference between the 10" or 16" radius at the bridge is like rounded vs almost flat, while between the 16" and 18" we're talking about half a **** hair.

 

[Rockstar216]

Re: Jackson experts

I had the same dilemma when I used the Warmoth 10"-16" neck with my OFR. Eventually I shimmed it and found out how many shims to use from looking around on the web. I don't remember exactly how many shims for each saddle I used but if I actually re set up my axe tonight ill let you know how many shims you need for each saddle.

 

[MetalManiac]

Re: Jackson experts

Set the neck for flat relief ( although i enjoy a slight amount myself on my jacksons), and get a set of radius gauges from Stewmac.That will tell you the neck radius, then you , i guess, set the bridge up using the same guage as the neck .I never worried about it too much, they play very well with a regular Strat style set up.

 

[ErikH]

Re: Jackson experts

Look at compound radius like that of a cone. Rounder at the tip (nut) and gets flatter as you go out (towards the bridge). If the last fret is 16", then you'll want the bridge somewhere around 18"-20". I have two compound radius necks, 10"-16", and when set up this way, it's easy to get them to play comfortable.

 

[Rand-O-Monium]

Re: Jackson experts

Pics!!!

 

[DrNewcenstein]

Re: Jackson experts

I've actually shimmed my Jackson Floyds once. Tuned out to be a bad idea as the Es were laying on the board and the middles were still higher than I wanted. Those were the shims that came with the unit (new OFR from StewMac).

Typically I set the neck flat, then give it a pinch of relief. You gotta squint and focus to see it, then decide if you're seeing a dip or just inconsistencies in the fret tops.

After that, I drop the trem and bend the high E at the 12th and 15th until I can't get a full-step bend without fretting out, then raise the trem until a step-and-a-half makes it fret out (I'm no Blues Lawyer and will not be doing bends that deep - if I need to hit the 18th fret note from the 15th, I'll scoot up to the 16th).

Then I level the bridge on the low E side, with maybe a touch more height if I'm getting too much rattle. I rarely play above the 12th fret on the low E (9s), so if anything above that farts and squeaks, those notes sound better on the next string down. Plus it keeps my Pentatonic box shape just as well.

Using that technique, I can get action low enough for your breath to fret notes. If you cut out the bending, you can get it so low that harsh light causes notes to fret, and you need to completely relearn how to play. Gentle, like picking up broken glass.

 

[Zerberus]

Re: Jackson experts

Looking at Zerb and Newc, I've got 3 Jacksons I'm redoing and I've got a question. What radius do you set the bridge up for with the compound radius on the neck?

I don`t set ANY guitar up to a predetermined radius, period.

My radius guages are for checking fretboard radii and nothing else, because using it for anything else is halfassing whatever you`re using it for, at least in 90% of the concievable situations.

I set each saddle individually, that`s what shims are for. Aluminum foil works great, too, assuming it`S not crinkled or heavily patterned

About 18-20" sounds right, though. But the way I set mine up, it`s more like 18" 1st to 2nd flattening out to 20" 5th to 6th, I prefer my low e to be about .1mm higher than the high e, but don`t want to raise the 2nd-4th strings unnecessarily to achieve that, even if it is minimal. But, well, perfect is perfect, and there are no shortcuts to perfection.

That all said, the Jackson factory setup is generally pretty good, I spent many years not touching the Floyd saddles save for the initial setup. I just got even more anal and nitpicky about my guitars a few years ago, to the point of "You will now be perfect or you`re getting sold tomorrow".. surprisingly, most made the cut.

My Model 6 and Soloist still have no shims on the JT-6 trems, but my Strathead and Rhoads have them on their JT-590s (Jackson stamped Schaller Floyd).. ironically enough, those 2 don`t have a compound radius, but the Soloist and M6 do :lmao:

PS: reading Newc's post, I´m fairly certain neither of us would particularly enjoy the other`s axes. He likes 9s and (if I`m reading it right) superlow action, which to me is anything under 1 mm @ 12th fret. Wheras I play 12s in standard and "only" low action (1.1mm @ 12th fret) on arrow straight necks.

He would probably break his fingers on my guitars, and I would break entire string sets with one strum on his. :beerchug:

 

[DrNewcenstein]

Re: Jackson experts

Hamfisted barbarian :lol:

Actually the shim that came with my Floyd covered the underside of 3 saddles. Didn't even realize it was there until I took the block off and it fell out (believe it or don't, the block was put on backwards and the springs wouldn't seat in the holes because they were angled the wrong way!).

I was like "WTF? Oh, this must be those saddle shims I keep hearing about." :lol: Tried putting it under just one saddle or two, but it was too wide. It could only cover 3. Dropped it into a parts box and rolled without it just fine. I run across it every so often and go "WTF? Oh, that's that Floyd saddles shim. *clink* " :lol:
I figure it was for a Strat (along with the accursed R2 nut) to match the 7-9" radius they have.

Fairly thick piece of metal, too. At first I thought it went between the baseplate and block, but it had no holes in it. Then I realized it fell out from under the saddles.


It's not that I like the super-low bending-not-allowed action (can't do much Sabbath that way :lol: ) it's just that the very first Jackson I ever touched back in '86 was a Custom that had such ludicrously-low action you would hurt yourself if you fretted too hard, so I like to set them up that way just to see if it can still be done. My LP Standard couldn't do it, nor my Ibenhad EX350.
If I had learned to play on that Jackson, I'd be King Sh8 from Fork Mountain by now :lol:
"Ynqwie who?"

I can get a couple of my import Warrior mutts with the DK2M necks stupid-low, but not with their original necks. I once put a KVX10 neck on a DK import body and it was USA-low. Guy that bought it on EBay thought I was BSing, and I told him to let it sit for a day or so to acclimate and not touch the bridge or truss rod. About 4 days later he messaged me back saying he did as I said and couldn't believe an import could get that low

 

[King IzzO)))]

Re: Jackson experts

Heh, you guys both keep your action lower than I do and I thought mine was pretty low. I'm usually about 3/32" to 1/8" at the 12th fret with 13-64 in B standard. Very, very little relief.

I'm pretty sure shimming will help, two have non-original trems. Shimming the 6th saddle a bit higher (like at the nut) for the fatter string is a good idea, I like that one.

I've never messed with the bridge radius, even with a floyd on a 9.5 radius neck, just always kinda winged it. I went by the book on my Destroyer and I've never had anything that played better, including CS ESP's, so yeah, I'm trying this.