kramersteen
PowerMetalRaph
Re: Locking nut replacement time?
Yamaha have a height adjustable locking nut which i think is a super idea.
Yamaha have a height adjustable locking nut which i think is a super idea.
Locking nut replacement time?
- Thread starter Coma
- Start date
Coma
Well-known member
Re: Locking nut replacement time?
Just put on a new nut, so not too keen on getting yet another one. But I did also buy a bunch of shims, so I'll try that. But still good to know for future use, thanks for the tip !
devastone
Well-known member
Re: Locking nut replacement time?
If the open strings don't buzz and it buzzes when fretted on the 1st - 5th frets, it isn't the nut height. It most likely needs more relief, so you need to loosen the truss rod, 1/4 - 1/2 turn will most likely fix it depending on how bad the buzz is.
If the open strings don't buzz and it buzzes when fretted on the 1st - 5th frets, it isn't the nut height. It most likely needs more relief, so you need to loosen the truss rod, 1/4 - 1/2 turn will most likely fix it depending on how bad the buzz is.
Re: Locking nut replacement time?
Nope, the fact that the lower frets play cleaner with more relief is a byproduct, not the direct goal of a truss rod adjustment. Again, action height is set at the lower frets with nut height, the action at the middle of the neck is set with relief, and action at the upper part of the neck is set by bridge height. They all work together and affect one another, but that doesn't change each adjustment's direct purpose. You can raise the action height in the upper part of the neck with more relief too, but again that's a byproduct and not the direct purpose of a truss rod adjustment.
Nope, the fact that the lower frets play cleaner with more relief is a byproduct, not the direct goal of a truss rod adjustment. Again, action height is set at the lower frets with nut height, the action at the middle of the neck is set with relief, and action at the upper part of the neck is set by bridge height. They all work together and affect one another, but that doesn't change each adjustment's direct purpose. You can raise the action height in the upper part of the neck with more relief too, but again that's a byproduct and not the direct purpose of a truss rod adjustment.
Coma
Well-known member
Re: Locking nut replacement time?
I've now raised the nut slightly on the high e side using a few more layers of aluminum foil (I do have shims, but i didn't want to raise the low side) and gave the neck soe more relief. Unfortunately, like a complete tw*t-hat, I managed to snap the high e in the process and had to replace it, so now I'm going to ahve to wait until the string settles. But so far, the string buzz is gone. String height seems to have increased somewhat over the 12th fret, but I can't say for sure, as I didn't measure before.
I've now raised the nut slightly on the high e side using a few more layers of aluminum foil (I do have shims, but i didn't want to raise the low side) and gave the neck soe more relief. Unfortunately, like a complete tw*t-hat, I managed to snap the high e in the process and had to replace it, so now I'm going to ahve to wait until the string settles. But so far, the string buzz is gone. String height seems to have increased somewhat over the 12th fret, but I can't say for sure, as I didn't measure before.
kramersteen
PowerMetalRaph
Re: Locking nut replacement time?
Did i mention the yamaha nuts? hehe
Did i mention the yamaha nuts? hehe
Re: Locking nut replacement time?
Nope. A truss rod is there to counteract string tension and bring the neck out of back bow. Beyond that point, choosing to have some relief vs a straight neck is a matter of whether an individual player prefers higher/stiffer action in the middle of the fretboard (via relief/curve) vs more consistent feel and lower action (straighter neck).
That is the most basic explanation of a truss rod adjustment, but you don't have to believe me, here is just one of a multitude of setup guides that explain this. See the second sentence of step #9.
http://sfguitarworks.com/knowledge-base/anatomy-of-a-setup/
I'd never even read that link until just now, but perusing it I see that it also talks about how nut height can affect playability in the lower registers (see end of sentence 2 in step #7).
Nope. A truss rod is there to counteract string tension and bring the neck out of back bow. Beyond that point, choosing to have some relief vs a straight neck is a matter of whether an individual player prefers higher/stiffer action in the middle of the fretboard (via relief/curve) vs more consistent feel and lower action (straighter neck).
That is the most basic explanation of a truss rod adjustment, but you don't have to believe me, here is just one of a multitude of setup guides that explain this. See the second sentence of step #9.
http://sfguitarworks.com/knowledge-base/anatomy-of-a-setup/
I'd never even read that link until just now, but perusing it I see that it also talks about how nut height can affect playability in the lower registers (see end of sentence 2 in step #7).
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Re: Locking nut replacement time?
9. "Only now, over halfway through the Setup, do we adjust the truss rod to give the proper amount of relief. The truss rod is a threaded metal rod that runs the length of the neck, and affects the overall curve of the neck, mostly affecting the action of the strings in the middle of the neck. We typically shoot for a relief of between .004″ and .008″, measured at the 6th fret when fretted at the 1st and 13th fret. "
See, it even says right there that there is a "proper amount of relief".
Relief isn't used to adjust the action in the middle area of the board. It certainly affects it, but you don't alter the relief to raise or lower action.
The relief (bow) is there so that when you play the lower frets they don't buzz on the next one up. If the neck was dead-straight 0 you would need the bridge jacked waaay up to not buzz when playing the lowers.
If your action is higher than wanted in the middle area of the board you should look at the relief and make sure it's within proper range. If it is then you move on to action adjustment, which is at the bridge.
If your action is higher than wanted in the middle area of the board, and after checking relief you find too much bow (relief), then of course tightening the rod will straighten the neck and lower the action in the middle area, but here again we're not tightening the rod to lower action, we're tightening the rod to correct the relief back within proper range.
Once relief is correct on a guitar with a properly set nut-height,,,,,,,,,,then it's to the bridge we go for any changes in string-height (action).
10." The final step of adjusting the action is to set the bridge radius and height. We refer back to our fingerboard radius, and set the bridge radius to match. We set the action based on the player’s preference: usually between .040″ (treble) & “.050″ (bass) for a low action, and .055″ (treble) & .065″ (bass) for a medium action. (We will make adjustments to suit the player when they come to pick up their guitar if necessary.)"
9. "Only now, over halfway through the Setup, do we adjust the truss rod to give the proper amount of relief. The truss rod is a threaded metal rod that runs the length of the neck, and affects the overall curve of the neck, mostly affecting the action of the strings in the middle of the neck. We typically shoot for a relief of between .004″ and .008″, measured at the 6th fret when fretted at the 1st and 13th fret. "
See, it even says right there that there is a "proper amount of relief".
Relief isn't used to adjust the action in the middle area of the board. It certainly affects it, but you don't alter the relief to raise or lower action.
The relief (bow) is there so that when you play the lower frets they don't buzz on the next one up. If the neck was dead-straight 0 you would need the bridge jacked waaay up to not buzz when playing the lowers.
If your action is higher than wanted in the middle area of the board you should look at the relief and make sure it's within proper range. If it is then you move on to action adjustment, which is at the bridge.
If your action is higher than wanted in the middle area of the board, and after checking relief you find too much bow (relief), then of course tightening the rod will straighten the neck and lower the action in the middle area, but here again we're not tightening the rod to lower action, we're tightening the rod to correct the relief back within proper range.
Once relief is correct on a guitar with a properly set nut-height,,,,,,,,,,then it's to the bridge we go for any changes in string-height (action).
10." The final step of adjusting the action is to set the bridge radius and height. We refer back to our fingerboard radius, and set the bridge radius to match. We set the action based on the player’s preference: usually between .040″ (treble) & “.050″ (bass) for a low action, and .055″ (treble) & .065″ (bass) for a medium action. (We will make adjustments to suit the player when they come to pick up their guitar if necessary.)"
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Re: Locking nut replacement time?
Sorry, but there really isn't a "proper" amount of relief. Backbow is universally bad, but after a neck is adjusted out of that, then .006" to .012" is a common range (that's where I typically set it 95% of the time). But it's still subjective. Some players do in fact prefer dead straight necks and can get away with it usually because they have a light touch. Then there are manufacturer setup guides that suggest setting relief to .020" or more.
Again, a truss rod is there to counter string tension and pull a neck of backbow. After that is achieved, then it is there to help a player subjectively set the feel/action in the middle of the fretboard. If you still disagree with that, then I don't know what else to say.
Sorry, but there really isn't a "proper" amount of relief. Backbow is universally bad, but after a neck is adjusted out of that, then .006" to .012" is a common range (that's where I typically set it 95% of the time). But it's still subjective. Some players do in fact prefer dead straight necks and can get away with it usually because they have a light touch. Then there are manufacturer setup guides that suggest setting relief to .020" or more.
Again, a truss rod is there to counter string tension and pull a neck of backbow. After that is achieved, then it is there to help a player subjectively set the feel/action in the middle of the fretboard. If you still disagree with that, then I don't know what else to say.
Re: Locking nut replacement time?
Using the truss rod to calibrate action just isn't it's intent at all. It's there to provide just enough clearance over the subsequent fret when playing the lower frets.
You want just enough clearance to not buzz and that's it.
If you have your ideal relief already set, then why would you alter that just to raise the action?
Using the truss rod to calibrate action just isn't it's intent at all. It's there to provide just enough clearance over the subsequent fret when playing the lower frets.
You want just enough clearance to not buzz and that's it.
If you have your ideal relief already set, then why would you alter that just to raise the action?
Re: Locking nut replacement time?
Because God is great, beer is good, and people are crazy.
No seriously, as was already stated, after relief is set and feel/action is good in the middle of the fretboard, then I would move on to adjusting the bridge height to set the action for the upper frets.
Because God is great, beer is good, and people are crazy.
No seriously, as was already stated, after relief is set and feel/action is good in the middle of the fretboard, then I would move on to adjusting the bridge height to set the action for the upper frets.
Re: Locking nut replacement time?
Well at least we agree that beer is good and people are crazy! lol
Well at least we agree that beer is good and people are crazy! lol
