Locking tuners and strings with low tension

Wayne27

New member
Do locking tuners still provide good tuning stability even if the strings have low tension?

I'm thinking about installing locking tuners on my Squier contemporary jaguar because I'm using 9 gauge on them. I know it has a very loose feeling but sometimes my hands get tired from playing my other guitars that have higher tension.

Could I still have tuning stability with strings that have low tension?
 
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I use 9s on everything
and locking tuners on everything

if you get the bargin tuners
they have some difficulties with the smaller strings
 
The improvement of locking tuners is to completely eliminate the possibility of slack or slop in how the string is wrapped around or tied to the post. That holds true no matter what gauge strings or scale length. I wouldn't say they add more or less stability based on how much tension the strings are under.

What's going on with the guitar that you want locking tuners? is it a problem staying in tune, or getting in tune (intonation along the fretboard)?

Is it the Squier Contemporary Jaguar HH with tune-o-matic bridge and stop tailpiece?
If so I wouldn't expect it to have tuning stability problems with a proper setup and once strings have had initial stretching break in period.

With that said, 9's on a 24" scale Jaguar are pretty loose. They're about the same total tension (~75lbs) as 8's on a 25.5" scale Strat or Tele, or 10's on a Strat tuned down to C#. I like the D'Addario string tension app for seeing what string and tuning change effects would be.
 
The improvement of locking tuners is to completely eliminate the possibility of slack or slop in how the string is wrapped around or tied to the post. That holds true no matter what gauge strings or scale length. I wouldn't say they add more or less stability based on how much tension the strings are under.

What's going on with the guitar that you want locking tuners? is it a problem staying in tune, or getting in tune (intonation along the fretboard)?

Is it the Squier Contemporary Jaguar HH with tune-o-matic bridge and stop tailpiece?
If so I wouldn't expect it to have tuning stability problems with a proper setup and once strings have had initial stretching break in period.

With that said, 9's on a 24" scale Jaguar are pretty loose. They're about the same total tension (~75lbs) as 8's on a 25.5" scale Strat or Tele, or 10's on a Strat tuned down to C#. I like the D'Addario string tension app for seeing what string and tuning change effects would be.

Yes it's same guitar I'm talking about.
 
The improvement of locking tuners is to completely eliminate the possibility of slack or slop in how the string is wrapped around or tied to the post. That holds true no matter what gauge strings or scale length. I wouldn't say they add more or less stability based on how much tension the strings are under.

What's going on with the guitar that you want locking tuners? is it a problem staying in tune, or getting in tune (intonation along the fretboard)?

Is it the Squier Contemporary Jaguar HH with tune-o-matic bridge and stop tailpiece?
If so I wouldn't expect it to have tuning stability problems with a proper setup and once strings have had initial stretching break in period.

With that said, 9's on a 24" scale Jaguar are pretty loose. They're about the same total tension (~75lbs) as 8's on a 25.5" scale Strat or Tele, or 10's on a Strat tuned down to C#. I like the D'Addario string tension app for seeing what string and tuning change effects would be.

Are about the tuners that already came with the Squier Contemporary Jaguar HH ST good?
 
Are about the tuners that already came with the Squier Contemporary Jaguar HH ST good?

I don't have a short yes or no answer but I'll say what to look for. I haven't used the tuners on your Squier directly. They look like the hybrid design with a modern housing and hex nuts, but split posts. Sometimes split posts get a bad rap. If the strings are cut short enough to insert into the hole and have only 2 tight downward wraps, they work fine.

The biggest concern with any tuning machine is excessive backlash or slop. If there's a noticeable lag between turning the key and when the post starts moving, those are the ones to consider replacing. Either the internal gears are wearing down or they never fit well.

Second to that is low gear ratio. I've had 12:1 locking tuners which were hard to tune precisely (they felt jumpy), and non-locking 15:1 or 18:1 which I had no problem with. Fender doesn't say what the gear ratio of these is. If it's hard to tune because strings jump from flat to sharp quickly with just a slight turn of the key, it's a lower gear ratio.

Still...I consider tuning machines to be the most over-replaced part on an electric guitar. In my days doing routine setups, it was very common for people to ask for new tuners because the guitar wouldn't "stay in tune". But it was setup so badly it couldn't be strobe tuned accurately without several adjustments first. Like I was getting at with the gear ratios, how can a guitar have tuning stability if it isn't in tune to begin with? Very often the nut was cut horribly - too high, or at bad angles. The latter was more so a Gibson style headstock problem...

I hope this helps...
 
I use 9s on everything
and locking tuners on everything

if you get the bargin tuners
they have some difficulties with the smaller strings

The same 9s on everything and locking tuners on almost everything. I get great stability and have no issues with the tuners whatsoever.
 
I have with & without. I give it 3 wraps regardless. That way no surprises.

I also like to do 3 or 4 wraps, just so I can loosen strings to change a pup or electronics.

Good points..I realize I didn't say my own guitars I'm used to staggered height tuners with no string tree or bar with flat headstocks. They can do about 2.5 wraps max before they run out of room or on the low E would dig into the neck behind the nut. The ones I work on more often I also do wraps even on locking tuners. Or the bolt-ons I put inserts in the necks. Those its easier and no risk to loosen strings and take the neck off to get at the electronics.
 
Those its easier and no risk to loosen strings and take the neck off to get at the electronics.

I do similar. I loosen the strings, place a capo high up on the neck to hold the strings in place, then unbolt the neck and fold it out of the way.

All except Telecasters. I friggin' hate changing the bridge pup on a Tele. (Unless, maybe, if it's my own.) :headbang:
 
With locking tuners, I am barely around the post once. If I had to get to the electronics, I will loosen the strings and take the neck off.
 
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