Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

Evan Skopp

SDUGF Founder


You can read more about it here.

Whaddayathink?
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

I've seen that type of product used on a Dan Erlewine DVD about fret work. It looks very useful, I've just never been able to find any, at least not here in Saudi, so I just have to wait for the glue to dry at its own pace.
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

seems cool to me. id give it a try anyway
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

Looks like a good product. I like how it stays clear. I've been using Zip Kicker when I need an accelerator and it clouds the glue so I rarely use it.
Thanks for the lead Evan.
PC
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

Thanks for the feedback. The reason I ask is that I'm considering representing the product to the luthier community.
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

Could be big, could be a dud. In time if Loctite or Jet or the supply houses that luthiers normally get their glues from deliver the same or similar product you'll lose the accounts. If you rep'd a good glue line with it, you could capture the whole piece of business.

The problems they suggest with existing accelerators are all things I've been able to manage with technique. At first blush (no pun intended) it appears a bulk of the advantage is in the atomization from the aerosol. When I "dust" accelerator from a greater distance it atomizes in the air, and I avoid the pitting and bubbling they mention. They'd need material properties of the joints when accelerated to win me over. Some test that showed the joints were as strong or stronger than air cured joints.

The biggest payoff, however, if it works as it seems in the video, will be in finish repairs. That's where you need the CA to behave like a fake clear coat of paint. It needs to be clean, free of bubbles and blush, and still be as hard as poly so it buffs out uniformly. If it works well for that, I would probably use it. For now I have to shoot accelerator in the general direction of the fill, from farther away, then blow the mist in the air toward the glue. CA is actually curing off of the moisture in the air, so I find breathing on it (like you're trying to fog a window) speeds up the cure considerably without any side effects.
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

If you're looking at at marketing the product - also look at the gunsmith crowd. When I dabbled in the biz, super glue was used a lot for fills.
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

yeah i am always looking for new products. thanks
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

If you're looking at at marketing the product - also look at the gunsmith crowd. When I dabbled in the biz, super glue was used a lot for fills.

That's good to know. I heard that BMW is interested in it for adhering their wood veneers. My business is just to the luthiers and guitar factories.

Thanks to everyone for the great comments.
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

I'm trying to think or where it would be used at on the guitar. Maybe in the nut or something. I've never had to glue anything (besides the nut), so I don't really know.
 
Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

If your a builder of acoustic instruments or arch top guitars you really DON'T want the glue to set to quickly in the event you put something together that doesn't quite fit properly you will need to pry them apart and make an adjustment. The other concern I would have is how easily will it come apart. Like for a neck set??? Not sure
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

I would never use CA for a neck set. Hide glue that can be heat removed.. Little fills and MAYBE to seat a difficult fret. I don't glue my frets as a rule unless absolutely necessary.
CA is something I rarely use. BUT- it doe's have it's place. And -being to use it as a contact cement .... many possibilities.
PC
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

I have only glanced at what the product is, but it really just looks like a faster-setting super glue. I really don't have a reason to switch to this from Titebond III and epoxy.
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

With all due respect Myaccount876,how many fret jobs have you done? Hundreds? Titebond and epoxy? LMAO! Rebindings? Head plates? Puleese dude...
PC
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

There are very few occasions where this product would benefit my repair business. It would not cause me to use super glue where I normally would not, either.
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

Sometimes for something like a drop fill, you need the glue to harden fast. Not the only example of where you would use an accelerator. I've had to use it to prepare a gouge in a piece of wood to be painted.

With good technique, this could be a time saver for a lot of jobs. Just not the ordinary ones I think a guitar repairperson would do.
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

I don't use a lot of CA. I have enough to last me about what maybe 10 yrs?
I like how it works as a contact cement however, will ck it out today to see if it works w/ my cheapo CA..
PC
 
Re: Luthiers and Repair Guys: Does This Product Look Cool To You?

With all due respect Myaccount876,how many fret jobs have you done? Hundreds? Titebond and epoxy? LMAO! Rebindings? Head plates? Puleese dude...
PC

So because I haven't had years of experience, (mostly due to me only existing for 15 years) I can't have an opinion? Titebond and epoxy are great for a lot of things, both with more set time so you can make slight adjustments, using epoxy for quicker sets. Frets? Most of the time it is a better idea to press them anyways and if you glue them in, that isn't an excuse to be sloppy of lazy while doing so. Rebindings? Most of the time it should be done correctly the first time so there isn't much of a need for a rebinding (with a few exceptions of course). Head plates? I think titebond does the job just fine.

No need to be condescending...
 
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