it is, and you're absolutely right. The new Iso Brick is a great power supply. The wall wart format is a valid way to keep noise down and size. If you're using it at home then sure you can use the wall wart as the main plug. But for giggers it's meant to be zip-tied to a power strip or installed under the board, feeding an IEC connector at the edge of the board. Yes to plug and unplug the actual wall wart at every gig is asking for failure.
Thanks man! It also comes in handy for hot-swapping pedals. If I'm setting up and I decide I want a different overdrive in a slot or whatever, I can bypass the board and swap pedals around at will with no noise. Another thing it's good for is listening to how much your board is coloring your tone. Sometimes you put in a new pedal, or new cable(s) and you won't notice a difference in the bypass tone until you directly A/B it in realtime. When I first did this many years ago, it's what finally convinced me to put my beloved Japanese Boss SD-1 into a true bypass loop. You can listen and hot swap stuff around, mess with buffers, etc. until your bypass tone has the least amount of loss.
Nah, not in this case. Even zip tied securely under the board connected to a standard 3-prong cable and this wall wart developed an intermittent short in 2 years and maybe only 40 gigs. It was my small local board. Maybe you've been fortunate Frank, but anyone who trusts a wall wart won't ever fail simply by being securely zip tied will be caught with their pants down at some point. It happens to all of us. Movement is inevitable when you gig and it doesn't take much. Speaking for myself, we do alot of our own shlepping when touring here in Texas. I manage my gear with care. I understand the validity of the design from an engineers perspective, but not the working musician. No matter, I replaced it the next day with a 4x4 and would never trust a wall wart as my primary power source.
Well poop on a stick. Then yeah. Backup required.
