Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

blindedbysilence

blindedbysilence

New member
I'm wondering if it's worth the trouble to use dowels and install a vintage correct ABR-1 or would it be better to go the simple route and use a conversion kit like the Faber or Callaham kit. Anyone have any experience with these kits? I wanted to use a Faber insert kit with a Pigtail bridge, but discovered the spacing wouldn't work.
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

I just got a Faber tone lok kit and nsw (conversion studs) and put it on my Les Paul. Overall it is a significant improvement over the stock nashville bridge, studs, and tailpiece.

That said, I'm not sure it's enough to save my Les Paul from the chopping block. My SC245 has become my #1.
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

My Les Paul is likely my favorite, I'm just not a fan of the Nashville bridge. Anyone have experience with the Tonepros AVR bridge?
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

If you want a high quality conversion kit go for the Faber® iNsert™ kit ,

http://www.tokaiguitar.de/xtcommerce/index.php?cat=c61_iNsert.html

http://www.tokaiguitar.de/xtcommerce/index.php?cat=c14_Fits-Nashville-Studs.html

I installed this Faber® iNsert™ kit on my SG Ltd Edition , the guitar is very resonant


gibson39.jpg
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

I meant to order the iNsert myself, but I was rushed and clicked the wrong thing. I really wasn't expecting much change with just the conversion posts. I was highly skeptical and had put off buying the faber stuff for a long time. I was really surprised at how much it has changed the guitar.

The only negative is it did lose some low end with the alum taipliece and new studs. That said, it cured alot of the other issues I had with the guitar-fuzzy harshness overall, splatty choked tone on wounds, and volume difference between plains and wounds (you should have seen the pickup slant I had going on). The sound is now very even, clear, not as fuzzy, and I can feel the resonance in the body, whereas I couldn't at all before. I'm not sure it sustains much more.time-wise, but it sings better when you bend a note.

I also have the tailpiece and saddles at the same measured height as before and the guitar plays a bit slinkier.

I'm surprised about the whole thing.
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

blindedbysilence said:
My Les Paul is likely my favorite, I'm just not a fan of the Nashville bridge. Anyone have experience with the Tonepros AVR bridge?
Click to expand...

Didn't see your question before- Ive done the tonepros thing. Its gotoh stuff with a set screw. Its decent quality, but way overpriced. Faber is in another league altogether.
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

The Tonepros NVR2 can be used with Nashville studs


sg_sta68.jpg



Other option is conversion studs from Philadelphia luthier + Gibson ABR-1 bridge


sg_sta61.jpg
 
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Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

As I have been led to believe, the big tone differences are not the bridge itself. It's the way it's mounted. ABR posts go directly into the wood. Nashville posts into a bushing in the wood. Nashville is bigger to intonate more accurately. Gotoh ABR style posts fit Nashville bridge. Giving best of both designs. Another advantage of the Nashville and AVR is no wire retainer, means fewer microphonics from it's vibrations.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

The Nashville bridge kills the sustain and I really don' t like the big design, I prefer the original Gibson ABR-1 bridge.

When I use conversion studs I glue studs into the inserts with high strength retaining compound for a perfect sound result .



sg_sta75.jpg
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

As with all these conversions, they come without string slots. I wanted the steel Callaham ABR-1 Callaham does offer centered string slots, hpowever my SG slots were not factory centered exactly. The ABr-1 Gibson is pretty bad- it wobbles like heck on its posts. Whether the string tension nullifies that is something I don't know. I do like the Tone Pros locking that prevents the wobble of the bridge on the posts, but again, till i can find a luthier that can slot the saddles like the factory, i ma sticking with the stock Gibson pot metal crap.
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

GibSG said:
Other option is conversion studs from Philadelphia luthier + Gibson ABR-1 bridge
Click to expand...

I have this setup on my Les Paul, and I've tried it on 2 other guitars. On the LP my experience was similar to JeffB, less bloated low-end and improved clarity. On my Explorer the ABR sounded like bright, nasal crap so I put the Nashville back. On my SG both bridges sound good, but my P-Rails have better balance between the various wiring options with the Nashville. If I were after Angus tone with PAF-ish pickups, I'd be using the ABR instead.
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

GibSG
Do you work at Philadelphia Luthier
Cause you have bumped this thread three times over the last three years with the same ad

If not I apologize if I offend you
But it is a pattern

Edit my bad
One was for another stud system
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

I prefer plugging as opposed to the conversion kits. It's how ABR-1's are "supposed" to be installed, and it can always be easily reversed.

Note that there is a difference between doweling and plugging. I always plug, not dowel.

If I was to use conversion posts, the only ones I'd use would be the Faber ones that you have to tap the wood to use.
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

What’s the difference between doweling and plugging?
 
Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

I bought several Faber conversion studs only to find out they only work with Faber bridges. :grumble:

Changing from one threaded insert to another offers little or no change in sound. After the Faber discovery, I opted to plug and drill for longer stainless posts. Having the post deeper into the guitar was the most noticeable change in sound.

I use the Tone Pros locking ABR bridge.

Remove Nashville inserts and replace with same side maple plug. Some blending with colored pencils and drop fill with CA glue or lacquer.

IMG_3122.jpg

IMG_3123.jpg

IMG_3125.jpg

IMG_3167.jpg


If for whatever reason you want to go back to the Nashville, simply drill out the plug for the correct size insert.
 
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Re: Nashville to ABR-1 conversion

Little Pigbacon said:
What’s the difference between doweling and plugging?
Click to expand...

A dowel is cut lengthwise with the grain of the wood. A plug is cut across the grain of the wood (the grain runs across the diameter of the plug). Traditionally, you plug to fill a hole in face grain, and you dowel to fill a hole in end grain.

Does it make a difference? Well, maybe only in my mind. I'm not sure if it could possibly make a difference in tone (and it's pretty impossible to test), but it does get you the closest to what the guitar "would have been like" if it had originally come with an ABR-1. And from a general woodworking perspective, guitars aside, it's the "right" way to do it.

Ayrton said:
I bought several Faber conversion studs only to find out they only work with Faber bridges. :grumble:

Changing from one threaded insert to another offers little or no change in sound. After the Faber discovery, I opted to plug and drill for longer stainless posts. Having the post deeper into the guitar was the most noticeable change in sound.

I use the Tone Pros locking ABR bridge.

Remove Nashville inserts and replace with same side maple plug. Some blending with colored pencils and drop fill with CA glue or lacquer.

View attachment 88660


If for whatever reason you want to go back to the Nashville, simply drill out the plug for the correct size insert.
Click to expand...

I agree with you...but more importantly, holy cow, that is a gorgeous guitar (and a nice ABR conversion).
 
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