Neck finishing...

FretFire

SingedFingerologist
Alright, the neck for my project will be getting here within the next couple of weeks, so it's time to start educating myself on the finer points of applying a finish. Now, I'm going to be using a can of spray satin nitro from Reranch, so I don't expect the process to be too difficult, but I DO want to get any do's/don'ts/hints/tips from those of you with experience in this area. Anything from how you prefer to position the neck while you finish it (hanging, laying on a table, etc.) to how many coats, any sanding necessary between coats (dry, wet, what grade of paper, etc.), and so on.

The neck (birdseye maple back and fingerboard) is coming non-finish sanded, so I'm probably going to have to go over it real quick with #400 or so I assume, then run a tack cloth over it and get started on the first coat. I'm thinking about 2-3 coats should be good. Feel free to chime in with any info guys, I appreciate it :).
 
Re: Neck finishing...

If you go with nitro, actually I don't think you want to fine sand ... I'm not an expert on this, but I've read 220 is about right - for nitro, you want some adhesion
if you were to use a tung oil finish, then I'd say yes, sand down to about #400

I don't know about this one, either, but I've heard of people leaving the spray cans out in the warm sun for a while to build up some pressure for better spraying
 
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I'm not positive how fine they will have sanded before the ship the neck off to me, I'll check on their site...
 
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I would go with either an oil or french polish finish instead of nitro on a neck. Personally, I'd FP. It's an acquired skill but it's fairly simple once you get the hang of it. A FP finish can easily be repaired at any time and it makes for a very fast neck, plus it's beautiful, a warm, natural look with great depth. Oil also plays fast and has the added advantage of being very easy to apply.
 
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That's more for body finishing isn't it? I was under the impression that applying a light nitro finish on the back of the neck would be fairly simple...
 
Re: Neck finishing...

Fetfire - Have you done much spray painting/finishing in the past? A guitar neck is an awkward piece to work on because of the headstock and the curved back contour. You can't just shoot straight at the back of the neck - you've got to shoot straight at the sides too.

To spray a neck, I'd either just hold the butt end in my left hand, start with the face of the headstock, then the back of the headstock, then the top & sides of the headstock (lightly because overspray will have already covered some), then work down the neck toward the butt taking 3 quick passes - one from each side & one straight at the back. I use gloves and just spray around my fingers on the butt end. I sand it down almost bare later anyway. Just make sure the sides of the neck that will show outside the neck pocket look good. Lay down on fingerboard to dry.

IME the back of the neck may not need that much finish, but the headstock does (including the "shoulders" where it blends into the back). It's way too easy to sand or buff through on those curves and corners.

Have you visited the ReRanch forum? Not that there aren't knowledgeable guys here, but Bill Lester & Company know their stuff. Also, I would recommend "ReRanch 101" over what I saw on the StewMac site. YMMV.

Hope this helps,

Chip
 
Re: Neck finishing...

I have checked out the "101" section but didn't realize there was a forum there, thanks for that tip. I don't have a whole lot of experience with this, which is why I want to get some info and do a lot of reading while I wait a couple weeks for my neck to be made/sent to me. I'm only spraying a finish on at all to get the neck covered under warranty from USAC, but I would like to do a good job on it :). Why do anything if you aren't going to do it well right?
 
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Just a reminder that you'll need to remove the finish from the frets when you're done.

Ryan
 
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It had actually been recommended to me to tape off the fingerboard, and just finish the headstock and back of the neck.
 
Re: Neck finishing...

Last year I just finished two bodies and necks, and having never done it prior to that here are my thoughts.
-The ReRanch products and instructions are excellent.
-If the neck is all maple, I think you should definitely finish the entire thing, front and back. If you don't finish the fretboard you could potentially have problems. Don't worry about nitro on the frets, it comes off pretty easily with a fingernail or a metal nail, and it's kind of fun to scrape off (in a tedious way).
-Finishing in nitro is pretty easy, and if you use the ReRanch satin nitro, it feels like raw wood. Just DO NOT spray it on too thick, it's better to layer very light coats and let them build gradually. I had a little orange peel on my first neck from spraying coats that were too thick.
-I built a jig out of a 2x4 and a couple of dowels. Quite easy to do, just find a dowel that fits in the tuning machine holes, drill a hole in the 2x4 and run in through (cut it to about 8"). Then I got a small (maybe 1/4" diameter) metal plumbing pipe with an L joint and drilled a hole and mounted that to the other end of the 2x4. I'm not sure if that makes sense, but at the body end there is the plumbing pipe with the L (or T) joint and a short dowel running parallel to the 2x4. This goes up against the truss rod. At the headstock a dowel runs through a tuning machine hole. Hence the neck lays face up and you can spray all sides from all angles and let it dry. It worked like a charm. I'll try to get a picture, which will convey it better thatn my clumsy explanation.
-Here's a tip that really helped on neck #2. Go to the hardware store and buy some Plumber's Putty (it's cheap, like less than $5). It's kind of like Silly Putty. Fill the tuning machine holes with it. Make sure they're totally sealed, but that the putty doesn't stick out above the edge of the hole. Spray away. When you are finished, it pops right out. I didn't do this on the first neck, and while the tuning machines fit perfectly pre-finish suddenly they didn't because of finish inside the holes, which was a major pain to sand out
-If you want to make your own decal, go to a hobby shop and get some waterslide decal paper (for laser or inkjet) and go into Word and find a cool font. It took me several attempts on each guitar to get this right.
-While I finished the neck in satin nitro so it'd play like bare wood, I finished the headstock front and back in regular nitro so that it's really glossy and the decal sparkles.
-When you are finished, and the neck has cured for at least a few days, you need to sand it, but it's easy to do. I sanded the headstocks down to 2000 and buffed them to make them really shine.
Hope some of this helps, let me know if you have any questions!
 
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Awesome post man, thanks! I was worried about finish on the frets (there are absolutely no techs in my area that I would trust for much fretwork, or finishing for that matter), and that's the main reason I was considering only spraying the back. If it's that easy to clean off though, it shouldn't be a problem. Great tip about the putty, too.
 
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A couple other questions I have are:

1) how much (if any) sanding will need to be done between coats? and if there is, with what grade of paper?

2) do I let each coat dry for an hour or two before I apply the next, or overnight?

I can't really think of too many other questions I have after these. I'll get a "practice block" and make a few passes to get the feel for the spray before I do the neck, and continue reading any "how to's" I find. Thanks guys.
 
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This will be in the Vault at some point. Keep up the good advice guys. Excellent stuff.

Also, post that pic of the jig you made, dude.
 
Re: Neck finishing...

Excellent, nice work guys :). Definitely post a pic of that jig if you can, and if anyone has tips regarding my last couple questions I'd appreciate that as well.
 
Re: Neck finishing...

FretFire said:
A couple other questions I have are:

1) how much (if any) sanding will need to be done between coats? and if there is, with what grade of paper?

2) do I let each coat dry for an hour or two before I apply the next, or overnight?
1)I don't think sanding is really necessary as long as you spray light coats. If you get some visible dust particles or spray too thick you might need to sand a little with fine paper (600 or higher). Just make sure it is dry before you sand, or it'll be a terrible mess. If you let it dry overnight, it probably wouldn't hurt to lightly sand with 600 before the next day's spray just to ensure an even coat.
2)Depending on the humidity of your area, you can probably let it dry for an hour between coats, maybe less if you spray pretty light. Don't expect to do it all in one day, figure on maybe 3 or 4 coats a day just to be safe. I'd let it cure for at least a few days before you do the final sanding too...the longer nitro cures, the harder it gets (which is a good thing). You may not need to sand when you are through, but it's not a bad idea to lightly sand with 1200, 1500, and 2000 just to get it extra smooth.
Make sure you read the ReRanch instructions. This is another good resource I kept looking to: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Books,_..._Finishing/Guitar_Finishing_Step_By_Step.html
Of course, as I look at that link, I see that the book is discontinued and a new version is coming out.
I'm working on the jig photo, gonna borrow a digital camera later (I'm still a film guy).
Another good thing to use is tack cloths, which are very inexpensive and found at the hardware store. They're slightly sticky cloths which will pick up any sanding residue or dust particles. These are good to use before spraying any coats (as long as the previous coats are totally dry), just to make sure you don't have any stray matter (dust, etc.) that gets nitro'd onto the neck.
 
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Excellent, sounds like a plan. I have tack cloth and planned on using them religiously between coats. Humidity is rather low here (I'm in New Mexico, desert dryness) so I was figuring about an hour-hour and a half between coats. Thanks for all the tips guys, I appreciate it.
 
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About # of coats, sanding, etc. I suggest that you follow the ReRanches "Rule of 3's": 3 light passes for each coat, 3 coats a day, wet sand with 600 and mineral spirits the next morning, remove dust with tack cloth, wipe down with naptha, and start over with the "3's".

I learned the hard way that there are two different standards for grading sandpaper, and not all sandpaper is created equal. If the number of the grade has a "P" after it, it is actually a lot coarser than the other grading system (which is what all the books, etc. refer to). 800P is more like 440 regular. Can you say "sand thru"?

Wearing disposable gloves whenever you spray or touch the piece will keep you healthier, and keep any oils/smudges off of the piece.

ESSENTIAL SAFETY TIPS FOR NITRO: If you are spraying nitro inside, you must have good ventilation, wear an OSHA approved mask (no, I'm not talking about one of those cheap cardboard things for sawdust either), and avoid any and all sources of flame/sparks. Nitro fumes can blow up - literally.

Chip
 
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Re: Neck finishing...

Uhh, if someone can fill me in on how to add photos to a post, I can post the neck jig shots. Thanks!
 
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