Need HH wiring diagram
- Thread starter Bassmon
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ThreeChordWonder
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Think you'll need a superswitch.
I'm out of town plugging a well, but I can look at it when I get home.
I'm out of town plugging a well, but I can look at it when I get home.
ThreeChordWonder
New member
Two questions:
Q1 - What do you mean by inside and outside coils? Usually the "outsides" are the screw coils, IIRC, and the "insides" are the slug coils, again IIRC. SD swaps the locations, but not the polarities, of the slug and screw coils, neck vs bridge, for purely visual reasons as far as I can tell.
Q2 - You're aware that you won't get hum canceling in P2 and P4 unless you flip the magnet and reverse the wiring connections on one of the pickups, right?
Q1 - What do you mean by inside and outside coils? Usually the "outsides" are the screw coils, IIRC, and the "insides" are the slug coils, again IIRC. SD swaps the locations, but not the polarities, of the slug and screw coils, neck vs bridge, for purely visual reasons as far as I can tell.
Q2 - You're aware that you won't get hum canceling in P2 and P4 unless you flip the magnet and reverse the wiring connections on one of the pickups, right?
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I have a super switch and regular 5 way
I copy and pasted that image from SD website. They know more about pickups than I do
You get less treble from series wiring and there is no hum cancellation
ThreeChordWonder
New member
^ You get hum cancelation series or parallel.
ThreeChordWonder
New member
How many volumes and tones?
No volume and tone pots. The output from switch goes to preamp input
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ThreeChordWonder
New member
I'm in the middle of re-pickup-ing my HH Strat again.
SD Jazz in the neck SD 59/Custom Hybrid in the bridge. I'm using a 5-way superswitch, independent bridge and neck volumes, common tone.
I've flipped the magnet over in the Jazz and am wiring it backwards to give RWRP in the coil splits.
500k pots, no push-pulls, 22 tone cap.
I've added treble bleeds too.
Plan is:
P1 - bridge full humbucker, coils in parallel
P2 - bridge and neck screw coils, coils in parallel
P3 - both humbuckers in parallel, all four coils in parallel
P4 - bridge and neck slug coils, coils in parallel
P5 - neck full humbucker, coils in parallel
The idea of making the neck RWRP is to give hum canceling in P2 and P4.
Connections on the superswitch:
Bank A - RWRP neck humbucker slug coil:
- Common jumped to bank B and out to neck volume
- Neck slug coil hot, which is now the white instead of the black, connected to the P5 contact
- P5 contact jumped to P3 and P4 contacts
- P1 and P4 contacts empty
Bank B - neck humbucker screw coil:
- Common jumped to Bank A common
- Neck screw coil hot, which is now green instead of red,oconnected to the P5 contact
- P5 contact jumped to the P2 and P3 contacts
- P1 and P2 contacts empty
Neck pickup bare, black and red all grounded to a pot casing.
Bank C - bridge humbucker slug coil
- Common jumped to Bank D common and out to bridge volume
- Slug coil hot (black) to P1 contact
- P1 contact jumped to P3 and P4 contacts
- P2 and P5 contacts empty
Bank D - bridge humbucker screw coil
- Common jumped to Bank C common
- Slug coil hot (black) connected to P1 contact
- P1 contact jumped to P2 and P3 contacts
- P4 and P5 contacts empty
Bridge pickup bare, green and white all grounded to a pot casing.
SD Jazz in the neck SD 59/Custom Hybrid in the bridge. I'm using a 5-way superswitch, independent bridge and neck volumes, common tone.
I've flipped the magnet over in the Jazz and am wiring it backwards to give RWRP in the coil splits.
500k pots, no push-pulls, 22 tone cap.
I've added treble bleeds too.
Plan is:
P1 - bridge full humbucker, coils in parallel
P2 - bridge and neck screw coils, coils in parallel
P3 - both humbuckers in parallel, all four coils in parallel
P4 - bridge and neck slug coils, coils in parallel
P5 - neck full humbucker, coils in parallel
The idea of making the neck RWRP is to give hum canceling in P2 and P4.
Connections on the superswitch:
Bank A - RWRP neck humbucker slug coil:
- Common jumped to bank B and out to neck volume
- Neck slug coil hot, which is now the white instead of the black, connected to the P5 contact
- P5 contact jumped to P3 and P4 contacts
- P1 and P4 contacts empty
Bank B - neck humbucker screw coil:
- Common jumped to Bank A common
- Neck screw coil hot, which is now green instead of red,oconnected to the P5 contact
- P5 contact jumped to the P2 and P3 contacts
- P1 and P2 contacts empty
Neck pickup bare, black and red all grounded to a pot casing.
Bank C - bridge humbucker slug coil
- Common jumped to Bank D common and out to bridge volume
- Slug coil hot (black) to P1 contact
- P1 contact jumped to P3 and P4 contacts
- P2 and P5 contacts empty
Bank D - bridge humbucker screw coil
- Common jumped to Bank C common
- Slug coil hot (black) connected to P1 contact
- P1 contact jumped to P2 and P3 contacts
- P4 and P5 contacts empty
Bridge pickup bare, green and white all grounded to a pot casing.
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ThreeChordWonder
New member
^Pleased to report the above seems to be working.
To the OP - I guess you can follow the above, jump all four common contacts together and point the output wire at your preamp.
You'll only get hum canceling in all five positions if you RWRP one pickup. Easiest way to do that is to take the pickup apart, flip the magnet over (turn left-right OR roll through 180 degrees, it doesn't matter, the effect is the same, but just do one), reassemble and then just connect the hot wires from the pickups where the grounds normally go and vice versa. No need to re-solder the wires to the pickup. The pickup doesn't care what color insulation is on which wire after all. Just remember the bare wire ALWAYS goes to ground though.
To the OP - I guess you can follow the above, jump all four common contacts together and point the output wire at your preamp.
You'll only get hum canceling in all five positions if you RWRP one pickup. Easiest way to do that is to take the pickup apart, flip the magnet over (turn left-right OR roll through 180 degrees, it doesn't matter, the effect is the same, but just do one), reassemble and then just connect the hot wires from the pickups where the grounds normally go and vice versa. No need to re-solder the wires to the pickup. The pickup doesn't care what color insulation is on which wire after all. Just remember the bare wire ALWAYS goes to ground though.
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ThreeChordWonder
New member
^ Same wiring would apply, just replace screws and slugs with outsides and insides respectively. Also, OP still won't get humbucking without an RWRP in there somewhere / sonehow.
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