blueman335
Mojo's Minions
Just picked an import SG with P-90's. They were seated a little low, especially the bridge one. I don't like the foam rubber pads holding soap bars in place, and wanted a direct contact with the wood for the tonal benefits. I went to Home Depot looking for a thin piece of trim wood, but ended up with a pack of foot long cedar shims. I got dozens of shims in that bundle for $5. Once I got working on the project, I saw the wisdom in that. I can can cut any section of the shim to get the thickness I want (since they have a gradual taper), and cut another piece to put on top of that, facing the other direction, so that together they make a flat base for the PU. The width on the shims was fine, & didn't require any cutting.
I cut the bottom shim so it fit tight in the slot at the sides. Then cut another piece for on top of that. I used a coarse file to cut notches & ruts in the shims for the PU wires. To get the correct total height, I put the shims in place, put the PU on the shims, and set a ruler across the bridge & frets. On the bridge, as it turned out, I had to cut a thicker shim to get the right height. I used wood glue on each shim. I was able to seat each PU flat on wood, my goal. On the neck PU, the P-90 attachment screws went thru the shims, and into the body, making a direct, tight fit. On the bridge, the shims needed to be thicker, because of the string/bridge angle, so I drilled and screwed the first shim in the body with short screws. I wanted a mechanical connection in case the glue ever weaked over the years from vibrations or humidity. Those P-90's are rock solid now.
Before I put the PU's in for the final time, I put a piece of aluminum foil in the cavity, between the shim & PU, and another piece of foil inside the plastic soap bar cover (making small holes for the pole pieces). Early tests show a low noise level.
Next step is tweaking the magnets & pots. This is not as fast & easy as mounting HB's, but P-90's are a greatly under-used PU these days, and I was thrilled to get an affordable SG with them, for that great look & sound of the 1960's SG Special (ala Pete Townsend).
I cut the bottom shim so it fit tight in the slot at the sides. Then cut another piece for on top of that. I used a coarse file to cut notches & ruts in the shims for the PU wires. To get the correct total height, I put the shims in place, put the PU on the shims, and set a ruler across the bridge & frets. On the bridge, as it turned out, I had to cut a thicker shim to get the right height. I used wood glue on each shim. I was able to seat each PU flat on wood, my goal. On the neck PU, the P-90 attachment screws went thru the shims, and into the body, making a direct, tight fit. On the bridge, the shims needed to be thicker, because of the string/bridge angle, so I drilled and screwed the first shim in the body with short screws. I wanted a mechanical connection in case the glue ever weaked over the years from vibrations or humidity. Those P-90's are rock solid now.
Before I put the PU's in for the final time, I put a piece of aluminum foil in the cavity, between the shim & PU, and another piece of foil inside the plastic soap bar cover (making small holes for the pole pieces). Early tests show a low noise level.
Next step is tweaking the magnets & pots. This is not as fast & easy as mounting HB's, but P-90's are a greatly under-used PU these days, and I was thrilled to get an affordable SG with them, for that great look & sound of the 1960's SG Special (ala Pete Townsend).