Now I understand boosting with an SD-1

It's a single resistor difference. Interesting how a single resistor transforms a pedal. It's not like it turns it into a Klon or a Rat, but it certainly takes it from a straight very slightly tweaked SD-1 clone into something more TS-ish.

I thought there is capacitor change in there as well. And yes, in a circuit that simple, a small change to certain parts can change the overall sound. Heck, the difference between a TS808 and TS-9 is literally 2 resistors in the output section.
 
It's a single resistor difference. Interesting how a single resistor transforms a pedal. It's not like it turns it into a Klon or a Rat, but it certainly takes it from a straight very slightly tweaked SD-1 clone into something more TS-ish.

Funny you should mention that, a single incorrect resistor made quite a difference in the original Rat. Took it from a pretty textbook opamp distortion to a completely novel form of distortion.
 
I was playing the AC30 with my first gen Morley PWB. I wish I could get that boost in a traditional pedal form factor. It makes any amp you plug into growl and the touch sensitivity is amazing. But it is so damn big and needs AC power.
 
im guessing someone could make the boost in a separate pedal. ever found a schematic?
 
im guessing someone could make the boost in a separate pedal. ever found a schematic?

It is out there. Who could I get to build it?

morley_power_wah_boost_schematic_diagram_sch_1974.pdf_1.png
 
Man, if I had the time, I'd take a stab at that on the breadboard. The boost section isn't all that complex. Am I reading it right that the positive power rail is +25v and +53v? It's a bit blurry to read, even zoomed in.
 
Securb, is it just the boost circuit you're using, or is the wah shaping the tone at all when you use it? Some interesting stuff in the manual. Would love to hear this thing through my VHT rig.
 
Securb, is it just the boost circuit you're using, or is the wah shaping the tone at all when you use it? Some interesting stuff in the manual. Would love to hear this thing through my VHT rig.

I used the Wah in one song but the boost was/is always on dimed last in the signal chain with the D+ dimed infront off it. Glorious saturation
 
I have both. The ZW is not night and day from the SD-1. The ZW does seem to have a very slightly deeper bass, but the ZW also has more aggressive highs that don't make it seem like it's fatter at all. They all cut bass. My TS808 sounds way fatter than either the ZW (in either mode) or the SD-1, and it still cuts bass.

In my rig - LP with Custom+APH1 into a JCM800 2x12 with G12-65 - the different was a LOT, not slight. It probably cuts off bass like you said, but I haven't turned the tone knob that far to the right to hear it. I sold my SD1 after a few hours of A/B'ing both. ZW OD was just superior.
 
The ZW-OD is literally the SD-1 circuit modified, unless they changed it at some point. I've compared the schematics.

It is a modded SD-1. I don't think I'd ever own an SD-1 again. Once you go ZW OD, there's no turning back to the SD-1.
 
Now I want to look for a cheap ZW OD so I can mod it! Do you have instructions to do this? A link perhaps?

At the top left corner of the PCB, there's a little black box that slides from one side to the other. All you have to do is remove that plastic piece, drill a hole in the top of the pedal, fit a SPDT switch into the hole and wire the three terminals to the ones on the PCB. A word of warning, though. There is VERY little room to work inside there, so you'll have to get it right with as little wire as possible.
 
It's all about finding the right combinations. Some pedals sound good with one amp, others don't. Glad the SD 1 works for you.

I agree with thias

example:

The SD1 into a Marshall is better than a TS9

The TS9 into a Fender is better than an SD1

YMMV, but the masses seem to have consensus on this. I agree with them.
 
In my rig - LP with Custom+APH1 into a JCM800 2x12 with G12-65 - the different was a LOT, not slight. It probably cuts off bass like you said, but I haven't turned the tone knob that far to the right to hear it. I sold my SD1 after a few hours of A/B'ing both. ZW OD was just superior.
Maybe you have it flipped to GT-OD mode? GT-OD is fatter.

ZW mode is like 98% the same as SD-1. Then again, MIJ vs Taiwan vs anniversary vs Waza SD-1's sound very slightly different too.


Also, which ZW do you have? I believe the taper of the pots in the OG Zakk vs. the new Berzeker OD is different. I owned two ZW's (not Berzeker) and an SD-1 at the same time. They all sounded super close. One of my ZW's had the "secret switch", and GT-OD mode did sound noticeably different, although within the same ballpark still.

Either that, or your ears are just must discerning than mine. Both my ZW's sounded pretty much the same (when the one that had the "secret switch" was flipped to the ZW mode), but my Boss SD-1 sounded super close, just slightly less aggressive. But they all sounded closer between each other compared to my TS808, which sounded fatter than all.

I'll try to find the info, but I could swear I read the difference between the ZW and the SD-1 is only a couple of component values.
 
I agree with thias

example:

The SD1 into a Marshall is better than a TS9

The TS9 into a Fender is better than an SD1

YMMV, but the masses seem to have consensus on this. I agree with them.

My buddy has a found his sound is an SD1 to a Twin
 
I'll try to find the info, but I could swear I read the difference between the ZW and the SD-1 is only a couple of component values.

Excluding the Waza version (cause that one has some extra stuff), the difference is 3 capacitors. One is added in the ZW to the clipping section and there are two in the tone control section that are different. The Drive pot is somewhat different too but not really to change the sound but the control over the drive. SD-1 has a linear pot, ZW originally had a D taper pot, might still have it, IDK for sure. D taper is like an analog A taper pot but a slower rise in the resistance while turning the pot.
 
D taper is pretty tough to distinguish from a standard audio taper. I wonder what made them make that decision
 
D taper is pretty tough to distinguish from a standard audio taper. I wonder what made them make that decision

From what I read about it, because its behavior of a slower increase in resistance allows for better control of the amount of drive.
 
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