Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

[Zerberus]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

For >25 years now, I've always snipped the ball end off, UNWOUND the string about 1/4", and clamped the EXPOSED CORE in the saddle.

This has the benefit of completely eliminating tuning issues or spontaneous unraveling by making it imposible for the core to "slip out" of an improperly locked wind.

It also creates additional pressure on the first wind, making unraveling even more unlikely.

I have never had this result in a "dead" string. Ever.

And I use DR Tite-Fits 12-52... round steel core, nickel plated wind. The insert in the packaging also suggests bending, then cutting, and I`ve never paid heed on my own instruments. I do do it on customer`s instzruments, though, better safe than sorry and some ******nozzle is always looking for something to gripe about, so why give them ammo?

 

[King IzzO)))]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

I tried your method a while back Zerb, didn't work so great for me, strings went dead with a quickness. Do you actually pinch the windings in the clamp or just the core? I just did the core. DR DDT's is what I was using. I guess it could've been bad strings...

 

[Zerberus]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

No windings clamped, just the core, but the length is chosen in such a way that the windings start IMMEDIATELY (<1 mm) above the locking block, before the string crests the saddle (i.e. when the string starts to bend to go over the saddle, it's already resting on winds). The last thing you want is the core to be exposed anywhere in the strings speaking length, that will cause nothing but issues.

Interestingly enough, I`ve heard of people having problems when doing it this way in the past, so it`s apparently not for everyone (for reasons that appear to be beyond me), but I simply can`t echo the negative experiences

 

[Little Pigbacon]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

Would that by chance be a Jackson? It looks Identical to my Soloist.

It's an SL3, a Pro Series Soloist. The Floyd is aftermarket, obviously. It's probably my favorite trem guuitar that I currently own.

 

[Petros]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

No windings clamped, just the core, but the length is chosen in such a way that the windings start IMMEDIATELY (<1 mm) above the locking block, before the string crests the saddle (i.e. when the string starts to bend to go over the saddle, it's already resting on winds). The last thing you want is the core to be exposed anywhere in the strings speaking length, that will cause nothing but issues.

What you're saying above is that the round core portion of the string is clamped in the string block and the outer winding is not clamped in the string block but is in the small space between the block and where the string rests on the saddle. I cannot see any advantage to this, and it appears to contradict all information warning about what will happen if no crimp is made in the outer winding to fix it in place.

Interestingly enough, I`ve heard of people having problems when doing it this way in the past, so it`s apparently not for everyone...

If there's no real advantage to doing it in a non-recommended manner, I wouldn't do it. Thomastik strings are too expensive.

I got the set on with no hassles, no dead strings, and nothing unwinding. In fact, I'm surprised how bright the strings sound for flat wounds.

 

[BrianS.]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

DR's roundcore strings have a little "crimp" near the end...couldn't you put the string on "backwards" and clamp into the floyd just beyond the crimp? Might solve some issues...not sure as I've never tried it, though.

 

[vinta9e]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

I use needle nose pliers. After castrating the strings, I bend the very end of every string (yes, including plain strings) back 180 degrees. I'm talking about 3-4 millimeters. The whole bend is completely hidden in the locking saddle, you can't see anything sticking out. The string is held in the saddle on twice the surface area, so it'll break before it moves a hair; the pressure on the insert block is even and symmetrical so the saddle locking bolt tightens smoothly without fight.
Strings slipping out of saddles or unwinding just does not happen to me.

 

[Petros]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

It's interesting at the Fender forum, plenty of guitarists (with their "in all my 25 years of playing" type jargon) claim that they've never had any problem installing round core strings no matter how they put them on -- even cutting the string without bending or crimping. Why would string manufacturers warn about not crimping if it doesn't really matter?

 

[vinta9e]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

If you lock them tight enough, they should work and stay in tune to a satisfying degree. Myself, I like doing a better job than "good enough".

 

[Artie]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

Interesting thread. I didn't know you were supposed to cut their balls off. I just clamp the ball. Is there anything wrong with how I do it? :scratchch

 

[vinta9e]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

Interesting thread. I didn't know you were supposed to cut their balls off. I just clamp the ball. Is there anything wrong with how I do it?

Nothing wrong except the string isn't clamped as securely and can break somewhere around the ball end when maneouvering the whammy in an aggressive manner. When your trem lacks string lock blocks, that's exactly what there is to do. The extra wrapping beyond the string's fulcrum point doesn't look particularly tidy.

 

[Zerberus]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

What you're saying above is that the round core portion of the string is clamped in the string block and the outer winding is not clamped in the string block but is in the small space between the block and where the string rests on the saddle. I cannot see any advantage to this, and it appears to contradict all information warning about what will happen if no crimp is made in the outer winding to fix it in place.

2 advantages were stated in my previous post, a third is that is reduces wear both on the locking blocks and the locking "butt" portion of the saddle

If there's no real advantage to doing it in a non-recommended manner, I wouldn't do it. Thomastik strings are too expensive.

Again, the advantages have been stated. as far as recommended goes, string manufacturers recommend that you do it "their way", and most european luthiers will recommend you do it my way. Especially those that were trained im Mittenwald.

So on one hand, you have a manufacturer`s recommendation, which is always to be taken with a grain of salt becasue even the most honest companies are aware that repeat business is good and an intentionally false recommendation may help this.

And on the other hand you have one of the most high profile instrument construction schools of the last few centuries as well as thousands of graduates from that schoool (incl. myself) recommending you do it the way I described. Maybe I should add that part of our training incluides 6 months of theory on winding strings and tension calculations, and how different materials and techniques affect the way the string behaves.

Not wanting to toot my own horn, but my colleagues and I probably know more about how to wind a string properly than most people that work in string winding plants. It`s just not cost effective to make your own, otherwise we would, it`s not like most luthiers don`t already make everything they need themselves.

So it`s really just a matter of picking your poison. Both are recommendations with decades of credibility and testing in real world situations. Neither is "false" per se, as both have advantages and disadvantages over the other. One saves wear on the 300$ bridge, the other causes more wear but reduces stress on the 15$ pack of strings. And since a pack of strings is cheaper and easier to replace than the bridge, for me the choice is obvious.

I got the set on with no hassles, no dead strings, and nothing unwinding. In fact, I'm surprised how bright the strings sound for flat wounds.

When brand spanking new, many flatwound sets are almost as bright as some nickel roundwound sets... but after an hour of playing, the difference really starts to settle in.

 

[Artie]

Re: Proper way to install round core strings with a Floyd Rose bridge?

Nothing wrong except the string isn't clamped as securely and can break somewhere around the ball end when maneouvering the whammy in an aggressive manner. When your trem lacks string lock blocks, that's exactly what there is to do. The extra wrapping beyond the string's fulcrum point doesn't look particularly tidy.

Actually, I have the string blocks, but I took them out when I didn't understand why they were there. I guess I'll redo this using Zerb's way.