I had put a Push/Push pot in my semi-hollow body guitar to split my humbuckers. It was a pain in the neck to do the rewiring in that type of a body. The switch worked for about 15 minutes and then it wouldn't stay in the down position. I had to take the pot back out and put a Push/Pull pot in to get it work right. I took the Push/Push pot apart and found that the switch design was not adequate to withstand heavy daily use. My advice is - Stay away from the Push/Push pot. It is susceptible to mechanical failure. It costs more than the Push/Pull pot but it does not have any advantage over the it.
Push/Push Pot experience
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Jazz Rock
New member
Re: Push/Push Pot experience
Are you sure that it is the principle of push/push pots that is bad, couldn't it be that the one you got was faulty or of poor manufacturing?
I would imagine that the advantage of push/push pot occurs while giging. Because it is surely quicker to hit a knob than to pull it. Not that I have been giging so far, but I can see with my LP classic that pulling the knob is not an instant handling, compared to when I snap it back down.
Are you sure that it is the principle of push/push pots that is bad, couldn't it be that the one you got was faulty or of poor manufacturing?
I would imagine that the advantage of push/push pot occurs while giging. Because it is surely quicker to hit a knob than to pull it. Not that I have been giging so far, but I can see with my LP classic that pulling the knob is not an instant handling, compared to when I snap it back down.
the guy who invented fire
Fuzzy. Guitars
Re: Push/Push Pot experience
I have had he same problems with push pull (or push/push) pots from Warmoth, Allparts, Stew-mac, etc...they are all the same, cheep, junky pot. Get a DiMarzio Push Pull pot and your troubles will be over!
I have had he same problems with push pull (or push/push) pots from Warmoth, Allparts, Stew-mac, etc...they are all the same, cheep, junky pot. Get a DiMarzio Push Pull pot and your troubles will be over!
Rich_S
HomeGrownToneBrewologist
Re: Push/Push Pot experience
If you have enough holes, or can lose a tone pot or something, a rotary switch is a lot more durable than any switch/pot combo. I once had a Schecter in which I installed a four-position rotary switch, which gave all four combinations of full/tapped for the two HBs.
If you have enough holes, or can lose a tone pot or something, a rotary switch is a lot more durable than any switch/pot combo. I once had a Schecter in which I installed a four-position rotary switch, which gave all four combinations of full/tapped for the two HBs.
Pink Unicorn Horsey
Megä Pöny Rÿdr
Re: Push/Push Pot experience
But that's not the subject of the thread, Trilogy. This is about the mechanical integrity of a push/push pot vs. another switching device such as a push/pull pot.
Switching devices are capable of doing more than just the single-coil tap. They can be used to cut signal, change pickup phase, change wiring configurations between two pickups...I'm sure there are other uses out there as well.
- Keith
Trilogy said:
But that's not the subject of the thread, Trilogy. This is about the mechanical integrity of a push/push pot vs. another switching device such as a push/pull pot.
Switching devices are capable of doing more than just the single-coil tap. They can be used to cut signal, change pickup phase, change wiring configurations between two pickups...I'm sure there are other uses out there as well.
- Keith
