Removing guitar fret without heating it
- Thread starter Wayne27
- Start date
Chris Pile
Well-known member
No way to tell until it's time to pull the fret.
Luthiers did it for decades without the application of heat. I know I did. But it's easier to pull the frets without chipping the fingerboard when using heat. And since most glues used to hold down frets (even super glue or epoxy) begins to break down around 180 degrees, might as well use a soldering iron to apply the heat directly to the fret. Good technique with the fret nippers helps, too. Slow & steady.
Luthiers did it for decades without the application of heat. I know I did. But it's easier to pull the frets without chipping the fingerboard when using heat. And since most glues used to hold down frets (even super glue or epoxy) begins to break down around 180 degrees, might as well use a soldering iron to apply the heat directly to the fret. Good technique with the fret nippers helps, too. Slow & steady.
GuitarStv
Sock Market Trader
Of the glues used, superglue is pretty common. I'd prefer that it's used on necks that are re-fretted. It's easy to remove in the future for a re-fret (just heat), makes a more solid connection to the fretboard, and ensures that frets won't lift or move around on you. I haven't played around with other glues for frets.
Also, using chip stoppers helps...
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...ecks-and-fingerboards/chip-stoppers-set-of-2/
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...ecks-and-fingerboards/chip-stoppers-set-of-2/
I usually use epoxy because it sets up slowly allowing you to do a complete fret job before it sets.
The problem I've found with using super glue is that it can set up before you have the fret seated completely if you're having problems getting the fret lined up and seated in the slot.
As far as which holds the frets the best (once they are cured)...I think it's a toss-up.
The problem I've found with using super glue is that it can set up before you have the fret seated completely if you're having problems getting the fret lined up and seated in the slot.
As far as which holds the frets the best (once they are cured)...I think it's a toss-up.
Chistopher
malapterurus electricus tonewood instigator
What's the one company that puts their frets in from the side?
NegativeEase
New member
Ive done it without heat many times back in the day -it's a crap shoot
I found Maple fret boards frets were much easier to extract cleanly without heat -maybe because Fender fretboards frets werent soaked in glue in my experience -if at all.
Chances are if you dont use heat you might have some chips on the fretboard from where the glue or force of knocking them out is more robust.
Better to use heat
I found Maple fret boards frets were much easier to extract cleanly without heat -maybe because Fender fretboards frets werent soaked in glue in my experience -if at all.
Chances are if you dont use heat you might have some chips on the fretboard from where the glue or force of knocking them out is more robust.
Better to use heat
Chris Pile
Well-known member
No one, as far as I know. Fender used to.
In the late 70's I used epoxy following the examples presented by the great Don Teeter in his repair books (the very first books on guitar repair ever written). Dan Erlewine taught epoxy fretting after he hooked up with StewMac in the 80's. Super glue was next in the late 80's to the 90's, but I settled on using it mostly for holding down fret ends that had popped up. Care must be used to keep excess glue from running, oftentimes resulting in finish touch-ups. I've done compression fretting with no glues at all, but these days I am pretty likely to use brown hide glue on dark fretboards, or Titebond on maple boards at the request of my clients, of if I deem it necessary - usually for guitars undergoing their 3rd refret.
