Sanity Check on P-Rail Wiring

[Bill Dennis]

OK, here's the plan

Bridge - P-Rail
middle - SSL-2 RWRP
Neck - P Rail

Going in a Player series Strat

1) I want Parallel / P-90 / Rail options on the neck/bridge positions which I believe requires a DPDT on-on-on toggle for each to accomplish
2) I want SSL-2 to hum cancel paired with the P90 coil on the bridge and the rail coil on the neck so it needs to be RWRP
3) The P90 coils combined and the rail coils combined should naturally hum cancel. Using an on/off toggle to do the Gilmour mod to facilitate those combinations
4) 500k Volume pot to get the P90's snarling. Debating using a resister to let the SSL-2 see 250k
5) 5 way switch to select positions

I think that should work but I would like some other eyes on this. I have not used P Rails previously and want to make sure this is feasible and accurate before I order parts

 

[Artie]

Chewing on it.

 

[Artie]

This is fairly straight forward. Wire up the two P-Rails to the on-on-on switches as shown. Then take your three hot wires to the 5-way and vol / tone as normal. Parallel will be with the switch in the middle position.

 

[Bill Dennis]

This is fairly straight forward. Wire up the two P-Rails to the on-on-on switches as shown. Then take your three hot wires to the 5-way and vol / tone as normal. Parallel will be with the switch in the middle position.

Perfect. That is what I expected. Thanks for confirming.

 

[Artie]

Yur welcome.

 

[magillver]

FWIW, I've become a fan of the Triple Shot rings for the P-rails, and most other humbuckers for that matter. They're fairly easy to wire up, and give you all 4 possible coil options, without any extra holes...

 

[jeremy]

i like the triple shots too, i became accustom to them very quickly

 

[Mincer]

I think the hardest thing with the Triple Shots is installing them- those ribbons are pretty small. But it is easier to use than you'd think at first glance.

 

[Bill Dennis]

This is fairly straight forward. Wire up the two P-Rails to the on-on-on switches as shown. Then take your three hot wires to the 5-way and vol / tone as normal. Parallel will be with the switch in the middle position.

Just confirming, you show black jumpered to the hot tab and green jumpered to ground, correct?

 

[jeremy]

thats what it looks like in the diagram, yes

 

[Bill Dennis]

I m certainly over thinking this. In Arie's diagram I am not clear how either coil is connecting to ground / hot at the same time in a given switch postion. I hope he sees this and can walk me through it. Its easier to follow when I understand the flow

I was looking at this alternative where one side selects the hot connections and the other selects the grounds. I

 

[Artie]

Gimme a sec, and I'll redraw the diagram, so you can see all three switch positions.

Like this:

 

[Artie]

Same pic, double size.

 

[Bill Dennis]

Same pic, double size.

With an on-on-on switch, the middle poles connect to both the of the other poles in the middle switch position, correct?

 

[Artie]

One side goes up, one side goes down.

 

[Bill Dennis]

Type one switch then? I think I got it.

 

[Artie]

Hmmm. Not sure what "type one" means, but that's how all DPDT on-on-on switches work. It's the 4PDT on-on-on that can be confusing.

 

[Bill Dennis]

Hmmm. Not sure what "type one" means, but that's how all DPDT on-on-on switches work. It's the 4PDT on-on-on that can be confusing.

Not sure either but I found references to type 1 and type 2. No actual explanation of the differences though. The schematics make sense now that I understand how the switch works. Thank you.

 

[Artie]

Glad to help. The explanations for Type 1 and type 2 switches I've found, are pretty ambiguous.

 

[Bill Dennis]

I was not planning on a tone control but now I am thinking I might add a no load tone control for flexibility. This may end up being a very flexible setup. It may rival the setup on my Charvel ProDK24 with the super switch and parallel/series toggle