Schecter C-1 FR

Re: Schecter C-1 FR

Davey said:
....i HATE dot inlays! as soon as i got some money i'm getting rid of the charvels neck mainly because of the dots

If this happens please LMK, I really liked that neck ;)

BTW: your charvel is thicker than a Wizard, I´ve had both.... a JRS-2 is Wizard thickness, but wider and more d shaped ;)
 
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Re: Schecter C-1 FR

I didn't read every post, but I'll see if I can help out.

1. Schecters kick ****ing ass. Great value, play better than most guitars costing two or three times more, have amazing fretwork, and are insanely cheap for what you get. Tonepros, stock Duncans on better models, an OFR on that one, etc.

2. That model, if you order it now and it's made in 2005 by Schecter, then it will have body and neck binding, and one single tribal inlay. It will look exactly like the Stealth in my signature, only with an OFR (I've since changed the pickup rings back to black).

3. I honestly don't think you'll need an OFR. Sure, Floyds are fun to have, but they're more of a pain in the ass than anything, especially if you like to change tunings.

Don't get me wrong, I'll use them if I have one, and I will eventually get another guitar with one, for sure, but they just aren't practical unless you're dead-set in one tuning.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

I get the impression you have no idea what a guitar setup is. When you buy a guitar, the way it plays out of the box is not permanent and not how the guitar is. You have to take it to a tech to set up to your liking. The string height can be adjusted as how or as low as you want it. Every single guitar even of the same model is going to ship to you differently depending on how it got bumped during shipping, who set it up at the factory, etc.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

DeadSkinSlayer3 said:
I didn't read every post, but I'll see if I can help out.

1. Schecters kick ****ing ass. Great value, play better than most guitars costing two or three times more, have amazing fretwork, and are insanely cheap for what you get. Tonepros, stock Duncans on better models, an OFR on that one, etc.

2. That model, if you order it now and it's made in 2005 by Schecter, then it will have body and neck binding, and one single tribal inlay. It will look exactly like the Stealth in my signature, only with an OFR (I've since changed the pickup rings back to black).

3. I honestly don't think you'll need an OFR. Sure, Floyds are fun to have, but they're more of a pain in the ass than anything, especially if you like to change tunings.

Don't get me wrong, I'll use them if I have one, and I will eventually get another guitar with one, for sure, but they just aren't practical unless you're dead-set in one tuning.
Nope, nothing more to add after reading this post.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

Schecters rule, I tried the C1FR a month or so ago and I didn't personally like the tone but that is because for one I am spoiled by my Duncans and two that guitar is made for metal and I play much cleaner classic rock. It played well though. My advice is buy it and then when you have the cash load it with a JB/Jazz setup.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

thanks guys, some good stuff.

"I get the impression you have no idea what a guitar setup is. When you buy a guitar, the way it plays out of the box is not permanent and not how the guitar is. You have to take it to a tech to set up to your liking. The string height can be adjusted as how or as low as you want it. Every single guitar even of the same model is going to ship to you differently depending on how it got bumped during shipping, who set it up at the factory, etc."

im aware of all this.....the reason i ask is because i saw a review where some dude bought one and complained that he couldnt lower the action without fret buzz, but that was just one dude.

as for tuning.....i rarely tune down (except for droppin a D). 99% of the time im in standard or drop d, so tuning shouldnt be too much of a problem.

this may sound stupid to a lot of you.....but can someone explain to me how a locking tremolo works? (this guitar is a fr LOCKING tremolo, right?). ive always stuck to gibsons so im not familiar with anything other than hardtail. is it something you can lock for a makeshift hardtail, and then unlock for when i want to use the bar? how hard is it to lock/unlock? also... how badly/ quickly does it go out of tune when using the whammy bar? ive seen a few dudes use this live with lots of divebombs and what not and doesnt seem to go out of tune for them.

damn, sorry for all the questions but you guys seem like experts at this stuff.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

I'm sure that the Schecter is a great guitar, but have you thought of Jackson? Their DKMG model is just like the Schecter but would have: a thinner neck, bolt-on, EMG-Hzs and more spank-tacular colors including but not limited to: more than black :p


Anyway, if you go for the Schecter I'm sure you'll love it...I can't stand the C series for some reason but that's just me!

As for what one's the new one...I'd assume it's the one with binding and the inlay at the 12th since that's what's on www.carlinoguitars.com:

http://carlinoguitars.com/images/Picture_309.jpg
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

Sorry man, if I came off rude I apologize. I'll have to blame it on my mood swings as of late, I'm having a hard time with some things.

If you're used to gibson style hardtails you might grow to hate the Floyd Rose. Keep in mind you can't Drop D tune and such without all of the other strings going out of tune too.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

milkandmeat said:
thanks guys, some good stuff.

"I get the impression you have no idea what a guitar setup is. When you buy a guitar, the way it plays out of the box is not permanent and not how the guitar is. You have to take it to a tech to set up to your liking. The string height can be adjusted as how or as low as you want it. Every single guitar even of the same model is going to ship to you differently depending on how it got bumped during shipping, who set it up at the factory, etc."

im aware of all this.....the reason i ask is because i saw a review where some dude bought one and complained that he couldnt lower the action without fret buzz, but that was just one dude.

as for tuning.....i rarely tune down (except for droppin a D). 99% of the time im in standard or drop d, so tuning shouldnt be too much of a problem.

this may sound stupid to a lot of you.....but can someone explain to me how a locking tremolo works? (this guitar is a fr LOCKING tremolo, right?). ive always stuck to gibsons so im not familiar with anything other than hardtail. is it something you can lock for a makeshift hardtail, and then unlock for when i want to use the bar? how hard is it to lock/unlock? also... how badly/ quickly does it go out of tune when using the whammy bar? ive seen a few dudes use this live with lots of divebombs and what not and doesnt seem to go out of tune for them.

damn, sorry for all the questions but you guys seem like experts at this stuff.

If you don't know how to set up or how a floyd works, stay away. It uses springs in the back of a guitar and knife edges on pivot points to balance the strings and keep them in tune with whammy use.

You can't lock it to make it a psuedo hardtail.

If it's a good unit, it will hold it's tuning for a month, easily.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

mnbaseball91 said:
^OK, but when most people think shredder they think thin neck, correct? So it would stand to reason that if I were trying to describe a guitar with a thick neck, I wouldn't describe it as a shredder. Hell, I know you can use just about anything for shred, but as far as trying to describe it...

:beerchug:


I shredd on a telecaster, sorta... (Smooth playability, comfy neck, fast action... WHY NOT?)

Hell... rockabilly is basicly shredd on the clean channel. (I'm so going to get flamed for this comment)

Just need a guitar that plays fast with good clairity.

So this logic is sound, but I still value a floyd, if for nothing else but tuning stability. Just as easy to change the strings on as anything else... just remember to bring some tools.

Oh, and pray you never have to change tunings either. :smack:
 
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Re: Schecter C-1 FR

Zerberus said:
If this happens please LMK, I really liked that neck ;)

BTW: your charvel is thicker than a Wizard, I´ve had both.... a JRS-2 is Wizard thickness, but wider and more d shaped ;)
cool. it's been a while since i had a wiz, but i know the profile sucked and it was quite thin


as for the neck, i'll let you know =)
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

fast post!

locking on a floater:
it means the stings get locked into the bridge and clambpd together at the nut. so that they move with the tremolo. this avoids a lot of friction on the saddles and insures longer trem/string life, along with that they cant go out of tune once they are properly stretched. and on a real floyd they cant... i tried.... and lost

making it semi hardtail:
you can do that easily by adding a little 'stop bar' into the string cavity between the springs. you lose the ability to pull the tremolo backwards, but you can do drop tunings without a problem because the springs dont pull back when a string loses tension

i can say that mine is set up really well. i raised the action a tiny bit so it has full funtionality (i can pull up and lift the whole guitar with the floyd bar and the strings dont hit the fretboard/floyd doesnt hit the back of the cavity) i can also do dropD with the finetuner and the rest stay in tune
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

My advice: Have your Epi set up by a luthier.

But then again, if your really need a FR-type trem, get an Ibanez RG with those Edge trems.
 
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Re: Schecter C-1 FR

fretburner said:
My advice: Have your Epi set up by a luthier.

But then again, if your really need a FR-type trem, get an Ibanez RG with those Edge trems.
nonononononononononNONONONONONONONONONOONOONOONOOOOOOO

do

not

get

that

guitar!!!!!

unless of course it's an ORIGINAL edge. those big ass mofos. if it is not, you have to be lucky to get one that will last long and work good.it just isnt worth it.

nothing works as an OFR, apart of the original EDGE (not edge2, or other knockoffs)

but like fretburner said, get that paul set up professionally and then ask yourself again, do i realy want a floyded guitar, or am i happy with the hardtail. if yes, get it, if no dont get it, if you arent sure, wait till you are sure
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

I just got a Scecter Elite and I'm dazzled. Amazing guitar. I'll probably change the pickups to real Duncans soon, but other than that no issues at all.

So because I'm so impressed with the Elite, I've been cosidereing adding the Schecter Floyd Rose as well. One thing to remember is that it's one of the few Floyd guitars available in mahogany. (Jackson SL2H-Mah's look kickass, but there in the $2K range.)

milkandmeat said:
how badly/ quickly does it go out of tune when using the whammy bar? ive seen a few dudes use this live with lots of divebombs and what not and doesnt seem to go out of tune for them.

You can wail on a Floyd all day long and expect the guitar to stay in tune. It's pretty incredible really. Thanks Mr Rose.

If you decide to get a Floyd Rose guitar you should probably give serious consideration to finding a good guitar tech to keep it set up for you. Take the guitar in every 6 months or so and have the tech set it up. Set ups on hard tail guitars are much easier and faster than Floyd guitars. Save yourself the time and aggrevation, for $50 or so it's well worth it.

The tech can also block off the trem so it only lowers the string pitch, as opposed to "floating" trems than can raise or lower the pitch. Of course if you want to try some Slayer solos leave it floating so you can get the shrieking wail that Jeff and Kerry coax out of their unholy metal beasts.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

why would it be so hard to change from standard to drop d? does iyt mess the whole setup or will it just make the other strings go out of tune?i dont mind having to tune it quite a bit..... but i dont want it to be completrely messed up if i tune the E string down. of course i'll get it setup professionally. so if i buy it, have it setup, will i be able to keep it working fine, even if i tune down to d sometimes? (even if i have to retun it when i do that)

keep in mind...this is usually just me playing in my room for an hour or so a day and sometimes jammng with friends
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

milkandmeat said:
why would it be so hard to change from standard to drop d? does iyt mess the whole setup or will it just make the other strings go out of tune?

Both.

Seriously, I'm telling you, if you haven't much experience with a floyd, wouldn't use it that much, plus you're going to be playing just once in a while, it's a real bad idea. Get one of the C-1 models with the fixed bridge. It'll sound better too. With a Floyd you are really sacrificing tone in exchange just for the ability to whammy like mad.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

if it completely messes the setup when you tune down 1 string then why/how to people use them? like i said earlier, i have no interest in another hardtail guitar, i want something with a trem.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

milkandmeat said:
if it completely messes the setup when you tune down 1 string then why/how to people use them? like i said earlier, i have no interest in another hardtail guitar, i want something with a trem.

oh okay I missed that part.

Because when a floyd rose is setup correctly it will stay in tune no matter what you do to it. But most people set it and leave it in one specific tuning, like standard and will have another axe for down tunings.

The time it becomes a nightmare is during string changes, and if you change tunings. The change in string tension is going to make the bridge go all out of whack. It just was not designed for that. It was designed to be able to hold one tuning very well with a lot of whammy use.
 
Re: Schecter C-1 FR

Xeromus said:
Both.

Seriously, I'm telling you, if you haven't much experience with a floyd, wouldn't use it that much, plus you're going to be playing just once in a while, it's a real bad idea. Get one of the C-1 models with the fixed bridge. It'll sound better too. With a Floyd you are really sacrificing tone in exchange just for the ability to whammy like mad.
very subjective statement.

you are sacrificing nothing if you got a floyded guitar.

before i got my fusion, i had 0 experience with floyds or trems in general and i do fine. during string changes you gotta block it so it stays in the regular position, restring it, tune it, lock it up and play like it's your last day on earth, whack that floyd like a nutcase, then block the trem again in it's normal position, unlock the nut, retune and if you are using the same gauge and manufacturer strings, it should stay in tune untill you change the strings again.
the D string broke on mine and i had it back in tune in 5 minutes, so telling people that floyds have crappy tone and that they should stay away from them because it's their first floyded guitar is complete and utter, steaming :bsflag:


the thing with the floyd is, if you want to go from standard to Eb or drop down to dropC or something, that it cannot do. but dropD i found is not a problem.

so dont go misleading people just because you didnt have a quality floyd or couldnt do a setup worth a damn.

it IS time consuming if you want to change gauges (you only do it once though, unless you change them all the time) and you have to re-set it if you want to do a diferent tuning, but you also do it once. and i have said before. if your purpose is to do a lot of diferent tunings with 1 guitar then the floyd isnt for you. for everything else, it's the perfect tremolo system
 
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