Stop Bar Adjustment

UTGrad

New member
On my Epi SG I noticed the high E was very stiff. I checked the stop bar and it was lower on the treble side than the bass side. I raised the stop bar treble side slightly and it helped some. Should the stop bar match the bridge in regards to height ratio with the bass and treble sides?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

On my Epi SG I noticed the high E was very stiff. I checked the stop bar and it was lower on the treble side than the bass side. I raised the stop bar treble side slightly and it helped some. Should the stop bar match the bridge in regards to height ratio with the bass and treble sides?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The stop bar should be slightly lower than the bridge. Just enough to keep the strings on the bridge saddles.

Some people think screwing it all the way down somehow improves sustain, but it doesn’t, and can actually damage the bridge.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Stop Bar Adjustment

No. Not necessarily. I generally adjust mine flush to the body. The bridge is generally closer to the body treble side as that determines the string height (action).
The stiffness is probably an indication that you’re in need of a neck adjustment.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Last edited:
Stop Bar Adjustment

What you don’t want are the strings touching the bridge itself.
 
Last edited:
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

b5fb2fcd8dd898129e165a1f9e80a1d1.jpeg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Stop Bar Adjustment

Pray tell, what's the problem with the strings touching the body of the bridge?

The downward pressure can make the bridge collapse. I’ve repaired a few like that.

17b4ec3321ab649df1a31f9658dddfdb.jpg


The stop tail is adjustable because it’s not supposed to be touching the body. They don’t come from the factory like that. You adjust it according to how high your bridge is adjusted.

Touching the body or over wrapping serves no purpose.

f35503e608fec810fd872747b0ce71aa.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

giphy.gif


First things first...

The stop bar can be adjusted as low or high as the strings will allow. The steeper the break angle over the bridge, the stiffer the strings will feel. You do not, however, want the strings to contact the back of the bridge as that can lead to premature string breakage or tuning problems.

Having the bar against the body will transfer more vibration, and that can affect the sound and/or sustain.

Personally, I prefer to top wrap my TOM bridges so I can get a shallower string break and get the stop bar against the body. I only wish I tried it sooner as it makes a change I prefer.

The narrower ABR bridge will have a bit more adjustment room than the wider Nashville, and in particular, the ABR intonation screws should face the pickups as to not come into contact with the strings.

Should you wish to try top wrapping, I recommend saving the old ball ends to add to the new strings. The wrappings can be too long and now allow the right break over the bar. This also prevents the strings from cutting into the slots and creating burrs.

Exhibit A: See how the strings are not smoothly curving over the bar?

tomwrap2a.jpg

Also explained in detail here.

 
Last edited:
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

Not sure how well this photo will show ...

This is the stock tailpiece and studs on my LP. I like to use a spacer under the studs. So the spacer is sandwiched between the bottom of the stud and top of the body insert. I just snug it down, not cranked. The spacer is the same O.D. as the bottom "ring" of the stock tailpiece studs and 3/16" thick. I can't say for sure that it makes a whole lot of tonal difference but it stabilizes the studs.

LP Tailpiece spacer1 zoom.jpg
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

I would also like to add on true ABR setups (post directly into the wood) a second set of thumbwheels spun down against the body will prevent the studs from bending or leaning in the holes.
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

First things first...

The stop bar can be adjusted as low or high as the strings will allow. The steeper the break angle over the bridge, the stiffer the strings will feel. You do not, however, want the strings to contact the back of the bridge as that can lead to premature string breakage or tuning problems.

Having the bar against the body will transfer more vibration, and that can affect the sound and/or sustain.

Personally, I prefer to top wrap my TOM bridges so I can get a shallower string break and get the stop bar against the body. I only wish I tried it sooner as it makes a change I prefer.

The narrower ABR bridge will have a bit more adjustment room than the wider Nashville, and in particular, the ABR intonation screws should face the pickups as to not come into contact with the strings.

Should you wish to try top wrapping, I recommend saving the old ball ends to add to the new strings. The wrappings can be too long and now allow the right break over the bar. This also prevents the strings from cutting into the slots and creating burrs.

+1 re: break angle and string tension.

I've tried top-wrapping and don't like it, except on my old LP Custom that played insanely stiff if I didn't top-wrap it.

Generally speaking I lower the bar until I can just get a piece of paper between the strings and the back of the bridge.
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

Darg, the Callaham LP tailpiece comes with 3 different steel height adjustment spacers, to accommodate different ABR height settings. According to Mr. Callaham, the spacers do help lock the tailpiece down and help with sustain.

I've moved to top wrapping my Lester's, as I also prefer the feel and perceived tone enhancement.
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

I have one LP with the spacers and it works as it. Anywhere you can eliminate movement will help with sound transfer. I like Tone Pros locking tail studs just for this purpose (also the bar doesn't go banging on the body or floor during string changes).
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

So what you’re telling me is different people like their Les Paul stop bars adjusted different ways?
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

Darg, the Callaham LP tailpiece comes with 3 different steel height adjustment spacers, to accommodate different ABR height settings. According to Mr. Callaham, the spacers do help lock the tailpiece down and help with sustain.

I've moved to top wrapping my Lester's, as I also prefer the feel and perceived tone enhancement.

Yes, I know about the Callaham spacers. Faber also offers spacers that work with their studs. Since I have no interest, at this point anyway, in replacing the stock parts, my spacers cost me a hell of a lot less money. Again, whether it improves sustain, I cant say with certainty but it sure didn't hurt anything. Maybe the Callaham or Faber products would make a more noticeable difference since they both directly couple the tailpiece to the spacers. But I'm good with what I've got.
 
Last edited:
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

Mine are set fairly high

I have the TP6 on two and they ain't fond of low

Just enough to break over the bridge
And not slip off when bending
 
Back
Top