Stop Bar Adjustment

Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

I think many people make too big a deal out of the "natural" sustain of a guitar. It makes very little difference in the practical real world. Nobody cares or even can tell if your guitar can sustain a barely-audible note for an extra two seconds. Besides, as OC suggests, there are electronics that can do that better when it is needed.
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

Let's be honest, how often do you end up sustaining until the note dies out? Not very often, but when you do chances are there is some vibrato applied. I find that learning to control your vibrato does a whole lot more to affect the sustain of a stringed instrument then how the bridge is attached.

Another rhetorical question: How often is sustain an issue on an instrument? Even a cheap Bullet Squier will sustain much longer than you will need it to with a propper setup.
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

It’s a pretty simple adjustment.

What I do is first set the action/string height and intonation with my bridge.

Then I lower the tailpiece until I’ve lowered it far enough that the strings are almost, but not quite, touching the back of the bridge.

If they are, they can cause the bridge to tilt forward.

I don’t want that.
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

Let's be honest, how often do you end up sustaining until the note dies out? Not very often, but when you do chances are there is some vibrato applied. I find that learning to control your vibrato does a whole lot more to affect the sustain of a stringed instrument then how the bridge is attached.

Another rhetorical question: How often is sustain an issue on an instrument? Even a cheap Bullet Squier will sustain much longer than you will need it to with a propper setup.

I need ALL the sustain.
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

Do I get extra credit for creating a platform that allows Internet forum dueling?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Re: Stop Bar Adjustment

I don't know if sustain is increased or not by having the stop bar firm against the body. But, if it is, it would seem that it would be more effective to use after market studs that don't capture the tailpiece. Those studs without the bottom "ring" like Faber, Callaham and others sell. That way the tailpiece is actually locked down directly to the spacers or washers. I'm just using the stock studs, which again, I'm fine with.

Something like these, without the bottom "ring" would seem to allow for more direct "coupling" ...

3000-bandc-368x276.jpg

Here's another type of stud that allows you to lock the tailpiece or wraparound bridge tight to the stud. You don't have to screw it down solid on the guitar top if you don't want to. I use these on all my wraparound bridges. They work great.

http://www.philadelphialuthiertools...lpiece-mounting-studs-chrome-with-us-threads/
 
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