sorry to ask yet another. I did a search and found a ton.. But I couldnt find this particular question. when adjusting the truss, and going either clockwise or counter, this should be done looking down from the top of the headstock right? as opposed to looking down the neck at the headstock? Gonna attempt my first truss tweak and im kind nervous about it. thanks
Truss adjust question
- Thread starter BloodRose
- Start date
scottish
WeirdScienceologist
Re: Truss adjust question
No matter what end you are at...its always clockwise to tighten and anti to loosen. The way truss rods work you can pretty much always look at the nut (truss rod nut, as in nut and bolt) as the point of reference and from there its the classic righty tighty lefty loosy.
No matter what end you are at...its always clockwise to tighten and anti to loosen. The way truss rods work you can pretty much always look at the nut (truss rod nut, as in nut and bolt) as the point of reference and from there its the classic righty tighty lefty loosy.
Last edited:
ItsaBass
New member
Re: Truss adjust question
You don't really want to look in either of those ways when you are doing it. You don't need to see anything until after you have adjusted it. However, do want to slightly bend the neck the way you are going before you turn the nut. And you want to change it only a bit at a time, then let it settle for a time before doing it again.
You don't really want to look in either of those ways when you are doing it. You don't need to see anything until after you have adjusted it. However, do want to slightly bend the neck the way you are going before you turn the nut. And you want to change it only a bit at a time, then let it settle for a time before doing it again.
Re: Truss adjust question
Im trying to flatten the board a bit to bring the strings lower. should one loosen the strings first? I cant watch the vid right now as my home comp wont run vids. Thanks
Im trying to flatten the board a bit to bring the strings lower. should one loosen the strings first? I cant watch the vid right now as my home comp wont run vids. Thanks
Laughing Kookaburra
Active member
Re: Truss adjust question
Sounds like you insert your wrench in the truss rod at the headstock, in which case you should be looking from the headstock to the body for your clockwise/counterclockwise reference point.
If you inserted the wrench where the neck meets the body, then you'd look from the body to the headstock for the point of reference.
Another way to look at it: When you turn a screw into a piece of wood, your clockwise/counterclockwise is determined as you look down at the screw while you're turning it. You don't look at the opposite side of the wood to determine which direction is clockwise.
The first diagrams I looked at for truss rod adjustments left me with what I think is your question...in which case Scottish has answered it...
Sounds like you insert your wrench in the truss rod at the headstock, in which case you should be looking from the headstock to the body for your clockwise/counterclockwise reference point.
If you inserted the wrench where the neck meets the body, then you'd look from the body to the headstock for the point of reference.
Another way to look at it: When you turn a screw into a piece of wood, your clockwise/counterclockwise is determined as you look down at the screw while you're turning it. You don't look at the opposite side of the wood to determine which direction is clockwise.
The first diagrams I looked at for truss rod adjustments left me with what I think is your question...in which case Scottish has answered it...
Re: Truss adjust question
Alternate way of making sense of it (theirs is textbook, im just trying to help visualize here):
Turn right looking down from headstock towards body/clockwise (screw in) to move the middle of the neck towards strings (bad high action on high fret numbers)
Turn left (unscrew) to move middle of neck away from strings (buzz at/hitting on frets at high fret numbers, which is when vibrating string touches higher frets than where your fingers pressed it in, and that contact disrupts notes with a higher rattling "bzzz" sound from hitting and bouncing off and touching again)
Other advice: proper wrench/tool size goes EASILY, unless the rod is already somewhat messed up....if it doesnt move, DO.NOT.USE.FORCE. For easy reference: its not a floyd rose locking saddle, it wont help, and that amount of force will almost certainly ruin something
If it demands force, check to see if the tool is rightly sized...if it is, take to luthier. If it isnt, try gently with proper size.
Alternate way of making sense of it (theirs is textbook, im just trying to help visualize here):
Turn right looking down from headstock towards body/clockwise (screw in) to move the middle of the neck towards strings (bad high action on high fret numbers)
Turn left (unscrew) to move middle of neck away from strings (buzz at/hitting on frets at high fret numbers, which is when vibrating string touches higher frets than where your fingers pressed it in, and that contact disrupts notes with a higher rattling "bzzz" sound from hitting and bouncing off and touching again)
Other advice: proper wrench/tool size goes EASILY, unless the rod is already somewhat messed up....if it doesnt move, DO.NOT.USE.FORCE. For easy reference: its not a floyd rose locking saddle, it wont help, and that amount of force will almost certainly ruin something
If it demands force, check to see if the tool is rightly sized...if it is, take to luthier. If it isnt, try gently with proper size.
F
Funkfingers
Guest
Re: Truss adjust question
The overwhelming majority of screw threads - all types, not just truss rod adjusters - are cut clockwise to tighten.
Exceptions exist. For instance, the fittings on pressurised acetylene gas container cylinders. Some mechanical engineering parts need reverse threads. On guitars, you are extremely unlikely to find any such thing.
The overwhelming majority of screw threads - all types, not just truss rod adjusters - are cut clockwise to tighten.
Exceptions exist. For instance, the fittings on pressurised acetylene gas container cylinders. Some mechanical engineering parts need reverse threads. On guitars, you are extremely unlikely to find any such thing.
F
Funkfingers
Guest
Re: Truss adjust question
In my opinion, a truss rod is tightened to withstand string tension. The distance by which the strings clear the frets is determined by bridge adjustment and correct nut slotting.
For instruments with necks attached by screws, shimming between the neck pocket and heel to establish neck pitch is another factor.
In my opinion, a truss rod is tightened to withstand string tension. The distance by which the strings clear the frets is determined by bridge adjustment and correct nut slotting.
For instruments with necks attached by screws, shimming between the neck pocket and heel to establish neck pitch is another factor.
Gearjoneser
Gear Ho
Re: Truss adjust question
Essentially, you should press down the low E string at the 1st and 14th fret, and have a tiny gap between the string and 7th fret that is big enough to slide a thin pick into.
From there, I like to find the weakest sounding notes on the neck, and dial in the truss rod so that those notes sound their best. I'm talking about tiny tweaks with the wrench till it's perfectly dialed in.
Essentially, you should press down the low E string at the 1st and 14th fret, and have a tiny gap between the string and 7th fret that is big enough to slide a thin pick into.
From there, I like to find the weakest sounding notes on the neck, and dial in the truss rod so that those notes sound their best. I'm talking about tiny tweaks with the wrench till it's perfectly dialed in.
Brian Griffin
New member
Re: Truss adjust question
Turn the rod clockwise (tighten it), like 1/16 of a turn at a time, wait 5-10 minutes for the effect. Normally you need to loosen the third and fourth strings to give room to the truss-rod key to turn.
Turn the rod clockwise (tighten it), like 1/16 of a turn at a time, wait 5-10 minutes for the effect. Normally you need to loosen the third and fourth strings to give room to the truss-rod key to turn.
Re: Truss adjust question
These always give me a headache with all of the ridiculous and confusing answers people give. IMHO this guy shouldn't touch the truss rod unless he has backbow. He should not even think about the truss rod. He wants to lower his action. That should be done at the bridge. At least that's what I am getting from his question. A capo and a set of feeler gauges work wonders if you don't want to spend the money on a nice straight edge.
These always give me a headache with all of the ridiculous and confusing answers people give. IMHO this guy shouldn't touch the truss rod unless he has backbow. He should not even think about the truss rod. He wants to lower his action. That should be done at the bridge. At least that's what I am getting from his question. A capo and a set of feeler gauges work wonders if you don't want to spend the money on a nice straight edge.
Re: Truss adjust question
Thanks for the input all! And to those concerned, I do understand relief and all, Im just not really proficient when it comes to truss tweaks. Ive done some minor adjusts on an accoustic, and have done most everything else to an electric but a refret. I just shy away from truss out of fear I suppose. haha When I got the guitar (bass) some of the saddles were so high, the adjust screws were clear under the blocks and not even screwed in. I set them down a to a proper height (appears so to me) and the intonation is spot on. This begs another question.. Is there a set rule for saddle height? maybe I need to bring the saddles down more? When I guage the relief on the neck, there is not much light beneath the strings. And again, if I pull the headstock back just a tiny bit, the strings a perfect. Its really close to being perfect, just needs the strings down a little bit on the upper frets.
So, drop the saddles as opposed to the truss? I tried to tweak the truss rod, but dont have a wrench that fits.
Thanks for the input all! And to those concerned, I do understand relief and all, Im just not really proficient when it comes to truss tweaks. Ive done some minor adjusts on an accoustic, and have done most everything else to an electric but a refret. I just shy away from truss out of fear I suppose. haha When I got the guitar (bass) some of the saddles were so high, the adjust screws were clear under the blocks and not even screwed in. I set them down a to a proper height (appears so to me) and the intonation is spot on. This begs another question.. Is there a set rule for saddle height? maybe I need to bring the saddles down more? When I guage the relief on the neck, there is not much light beneath the strings. And again, if I pull the headstock back just a tiny bit, the strings a perfect. Its really close to being perfect, just needs the strings down a little bit on the upper frets.
So, drop the saddles as opposed to the truss? I tried to tweak the truss rod, but dont have a wrench that fits.
Re: Truss adjust question
Usually if the strings are too high on the upper frets, you need to bring the saddles down more. Of course basses need more relief in the neck than a guitar, so you may be fine not adjusting the truss rod.
As was mentioned earlier, the neck may need shimming to get the correct string height as well. If your saddles are dropped right to the bottom of their play, and the action is still too high, you'll more than likely need to shim the neck.
Good luck!
Usually if the strings are too high on the upper frets, you need to bring the saddles down more. Of course basses need more relief in the neck than a guitar, so you may be fine not adjusting the truss rod.
As was mentioned earlier, the neck may need shimming to get the correct string height as well. If your saddles are dropped right to the bottom of their play, and the action is still too high, you'll more than likely need to shim the neck.
Good luck!
