I am in the camp that NOS tubes and the " tube rolling " idealism is purely a designed market. GT tubes are probably the grandfather of creating NOS tube hype and creating the NOS tube and " rolling " market. After all, they sold tubes that they didn't make, so how do you sell more, you find a way to sell old tubes that you bought for pennies on the dollar.
Keep in mind that an NOS tube made 50 years ago only cost .25 cents at the time. Almost ALL current NOS tubes are warehouse clearance items that were bought CHEAP to clear out all the shelves they were consuming. There isn't anything particularly special about a tube made 50 years ago, except perhaps that it lived 50 years on a shelf and still works. DO they sound different than modern production tubes? Sure, just as each NOS tube brand sounds different from the other.
The market was fabricated and now being taken advantage of. There is certainly a scarcity of NOS tubes, but then why bother using them? If they will soon be gone and none are exactly alike, then you are buying an expensive tube to burn up ( literally ) and never be able to replace. So will current production tubes be NOS tubes in 30 years and be considered the epidemy of tube options?
Different tubes do sound a little bit different. NONE will ever take an amp from meh to OMG or visa versa. They will all just sound a little different. If you don't like X brand in your amp, then try another brand. You may find that JJ's sound better than the EHX offerings. The big thing to consider is that ALL the current new tubes you buy, are all made in three different factories. So many of the different brands have the exact same tube, it just has their name on it instead. NOS is a hyped market, tube rolling does not require NOS tubes and every tube will sound ever so slightly different, but never enough to make or break an amp.