RiceCustomRich
New member
Re: using lemon oil on fretboards...
Thanks! Good to be here.
				
			Thanks! Good to be here.
Olive oil?
Squeeze lemons?
3 in 1 oil?
Youse guys are a riot.
And I sure hope you are kidding...
I never put anything on my Gretsch New Yorker and Fender Mustang for 40 years before I read on some internet forums that people put stuff on their rosewood fretboards. I tried the lemon oil (seems best for cleaning to me) and plain mineral oil which seemd OK, but no significant change. I'll probably wait another 30 years or so before I do it again.
Nope. I'm absolutely not kidding. Nor am I ignorant, misinformed, or otherwise challenged.
Fact is, wood is dead. When dead stuff is subjected to heated air, it loses its natural oils, which causes shrinkage. Shrinkage causes stuff to crack, due to uneven tensions within the piece. Some woods are more prone to shrinkage/cracking, including rosewood, walnut, ebony, purpleheart, etc...
By reintroducing a natural oil, the surface becomes sealed, and slows this process. Lemon oil is one traditional substance that has been used for centuries- I simply don't care for it. It is too thin, and evaporates quickly, requiring more frequent application. Olive oil is thicker, thus it is absorbed more slowly and lasts much longer.
Lemon juice is acidic, and will do more harm than good. Really bad idea. 3 in 1 oil is a petroleum distillate, which will actually work, but I would avoid it in favor of a natural, non toxic product.
I have seen fretboards split, cracked, and buckled due to drying out, and it's a shame. You were lucky with your instruments, now you are informed.
:werd:Have you tried rosewood oil though, or ebony oil, etc, oils extracted from the trees themselves?
if any wood on a guitar is cracking, the solution is not to lather it up with oil. :smack:
it is due to a humidity problem in the storage area of said instrument.
if you leave your guitar in the trunk of your guitar (which would be worst case senario)
or leave it on a wall hanger, like its some piece of art (put in a fricken case if your not going to play it)
or you just leave your guitar around outside of the case :smack: it will dry out.
now, dont go shoving soundhole humidifiers in the soundhole of your acoustics either.
i have dealt with more repairs (than most of you) that were due to improper humidifying.
either too much or too little.
wood is not dead. treat your guitar like a living organism. they need to be in a proper environment. 35-50% humidity 365 days a year. yes, even electrics.
wood is not dead. treat your guitar like a living organism. they need to be in a proper environment. 35-50% humidity 365 days a year. yes, even electrics.
i say that wood is alive, because it reacts to humidity, and everything else. i tell people to treat it like its alive, hoping that they will take better care of it. :smile:
I'm avoiding a flame war, I just joined this forum.
Yes, wood is dead, disconnected from its roots, never to live again.
Keep your guitar in air conditioning whenever possible, avoid extremes. You can check the humidity with a hygrometer, (there are several models available- I have a Planet Waves hygrometer that I like) but simply knowing what it is won't help you all that much. Many efforts at raising/lowering humidity wind up in disaster. A good general course of action is to use your body as an indicator. If you are comfortable, then your instrument will be comfortable, too. Avoid extremes whenever possible.
The thread, as I recall, was referring to unfinished (raw) woods, maple is usually finished, either with poly or with nitro. I will use polymerized linseed oil to seal and protect maple necks for those who like a raw wood feel, but it is not as durable a finish as the others. It also has a tendency to get dirty very quickly. Some folks love that, some hate it. It's still better than raw wood.
Finished wood has a certain degree of protection, depending on what type of finish, and how heavily it was applied. Lacquers typically provide much less protection than polyurethanes or UV cured polyesters. They (lacquers) are also more affected by temperature and humidity. I still love the lacquer, though.
Make sure to run a humidifier in the winter, to help keep everything from drying out. This is especially problematic with forced air furnaces, as the burners dry the air as it heats it. This can cause drying, cracking, fret sprout,etc.. really bad stuff. Please don't use "vaporizers", too much humidity has adverse effects, as well. Just a humidifier in the winter, and air conditioning in the summer.
I know it just conjures images of people diluting miracle grow to put on their fretboardsYeah, I know, I'm silly....
