Recently received a body and neck. It's taken about 2 months for me to receive all the parts for this build. After finishing the body myself and installing all the parts, the neck fitment is way too high. I can't adjust the saddles high enough for the strings to clear the frets. It's basically unplayable. I took a bunch of pictures and have sent them to Warmoth comparing their product with my American Fender stratocasters and it's blatantly obvious that something isn't right. Regardless, it seems as if Warmoth is dismissing my issues. Any thoughts?
Warmoth build fitment issues
- Thread starter Kavooch
- Start date
Masta' C
Well-known member
Both the body and neck pictured are Warmoth products?
Are you using shims of any sort in the neck pocket?
Looks like the neck pocket wasn't routed deep enough. I don't think I've ever heard of that issue with a Warmoth product. Can you take pics of the pocket and back of the neck with the neck removed?
Are you using shims of any sort in the neck pocket?
Looks like the neck pocket wasn't routed deep enough. I don't think I've ever heard of that issue with a Warmoth product. Can you take pics of the pocket and back of the neck with the neck removed?
Last edited:
Clint 55
OH THE DOUBLE THICK GLAZE!
I have had this issue with my warmoths. I think they should make their necks sit lower. I solve the issue by cranking the neck in as hard as possible and then my saddles end up high. Sometimes paint or finish can make the pocket shallower and you can sand that out.
ErikH
Well-known member
I have a Warmoth build here and have no issues with the neck pocket. My bridge is a Gotoh 6-screw vintage style. I see yours is a hard tail using the block saddles. There has to be some space below the 2nd fret extension or a pickguard won't fit. One way around this is to make a shim to go under the bridge. It will require drilling 6 holes for the strings to go through but Hamer did this back in the day with their hard tails. I think it was a stained piece of maple under the bridge. It would definitely give the clearance you need.
Another way to prove your case would be to remove the neck and measure the depth of the pocket front, back, both sides and the middle to make sure it is good and flat. Then compare the depth of yours with what is spec'd on the web site. If there is any finish on the bottom of the pocket (and there shouldn't be), remove it down to bare wood. Layers of finish could definitely cause this.
Another way to prove your case would be to remove the neck and measure the depth of the pocket front, back, both sides and the middle to make sure it is good and flat. Then compare the depth of yours with what is spec'd on the web site. If there is any finish on the bottom of the pocket (and there shouldn't be), remove it down to bare wood. Layers of finish could definitely cause this.
You may have better luck at the Unofficial Warmoth Forum. Warmoth takes a good 12 weeks for any custom work as they make their way out of the pandemic year. In fact, they just put out a video explaining that they are way behind on production.
Warmoth has a warranty, so I would use it. Whatever is going on with your build isn't their usual. I've never had any issues, but if this is indeed a manufacturing issue, they will make it right.
Warmoth has a warranty, so I would use it. Whatever is going on with your build isn't their usual. I've never had any issues, but if this is indeed a manufacturing issue, they will make it right.
Masta' C
Well-known member
I have 4 Warmoth bodies and this hasn't been an issue with any of them. I have to wonder if the neck isn't seated fully, the nut is cut too low, the pocket is angled, and/or one of the parts isn't Warmoth-made. Of course, production mistakes do happen, but they aren't very common.
Clint 55
OH THE DOUBLE THICK GLAZE!
All my warmoths work but they cut it close. I would like the neck to sit lower. It's possible the op could be user error but I could def see how this could be a problem. Try cranking the neck in hard hand tight but without injuring yourself and if that doesn't work contact warmoth and see what they think or maybe have them give you another 1/8" of pocket.
Last edited:
ErikH
Well-known member
Their neck pocket dimensions are true to Fender's. Do NOT crank the screws tighter. It will crush the wood, mess up the paint around it and bend the neck plate. First make sure there is no paint anywhere in the neck pocket. Next, measure it and compare to the dimensions below. They cut everything on a CNC machine so there is very little margin for error.
Now, they do have the 720 mod which lowers the floor of the neck pocket but that is available on rear-routed bodies only because when that it done, a pickguard will not fit due to the 22nd fret overhang touching the body.
https://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodie...eckPocket.aspx
Now, they do have the 720 mod which lowers the floor of the neck pocket but that is available on rear-routed bodies only because when that it done, a pickguard will not fit due to the 22nd fret overhang touching the body.
https://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodie...eckPocket.aspx
- Width = 2-3/16" (56 mm)
- Length = 3" (76 mm)
- Pocket Depth = 5/8" (16 mm)
Clint 55
OH THE DOUBLE THICK GLAZE!
Bruh that's physically impossible. Noone on earth has enough strength to screw the neck in by hand with enough force to bend the neck plate lol. The screws and/or screwdriver would strip first anyway. Maybe it's not necessary to be reckless about 'cranking' it in, but the neck still has to be relatively tight in the pocket to sit right. It can sit a good 1/8" too high if it's loose.
ErikH
Well-known member
Trust me, it's possible. I've done it on cheapy guitars. Bent the plate at the corners, could hear the wood crackle. LOL But yes, the neck definitely has to sit tight in the pocket. I'm curious if there is finish in the pocket that is making it sit up too high. It could even be paint that pooled up in the corners where the sides and bottom meet. Doesn't take much.
Last edited:
Drak
New member
Bolt-On neck pockets should be 5/8" deep.
So that's the most crucial and epic pic I would need to see, the rest of the pics have no context or meaning w/o that.
The neck removed and a ruler sitting upright next to the heel to see final height.
If you finished it yourself, did you go back and sand all, or nearly all, of the finish out of the pocket?
That is a standard issue protocol for anyone building their own guitars, to level-sand the neck pocket after finishing/before assembly.
Nearly all the way back to wood, with just a slight amount of (dead-flat) finish left on it.
You'd be surprised how fast a glob or blob of finish will jack your action up.
And...Warmoth, I'm sure, is well aware of exactly what I just mentioned for people not used to rolling their own.
Take the neck off, measure the pocket, sand out all your finish except a paper-thin and flat layer.
THEN, resultant string action pics will have some context and meaning.
There is no reason to have to over-tighten neck screws.
That is some sort of band-aid instead of identifying and fixing the real problem.
On a Mahogany neck, you'll strip out the screw holes faster than you can blink your eyes.
Maple is tougher, yes, but you can still strip them out, depending on the particular piece of wood.
All necks are not the same as far as screw-tightening abuse is concerned.
Some strip out very easily, some not so much, just depends.
But the moral here is that it is never necessary to do that to 'fix' something.
So that's the most crucial and epic pic I would need to see, the rest of the pics have no context or meaning w/o that.
The neck removed and a ruler sitting upright next to the heel to see final height.
If you finished it yourself, did you go back and sand all, or nearly all, of the finish out of the pocket?
That is a standard issue protocol for anyone building their own guitars, to level-sand the neck pocket after finishing/before assembly.
Nearly all the way back to wood, with just a slight amount of (dead-flat) finish left on it.
You'd be surprised how fast a glob or blob of finish will jack your action up.
And...Warmoth, I'm sure, is well aware of exactly what I just mentioned for people not used to rolling their own.
Take the neck off, measure the pocket, sand out all your finish except a paper-thin and flat layer.
THEN, resultant string action pics will have some context and meaning.
There is no reason to have to over-tighten neck screws.
That is some sort of band-aid instead of identifying and fixing the real problem.
On a Mahogany neck, you'll strip out the screw holes faster than you can blink your eyes.
Maple is tougher, yes, but you can still strip them out, depending on the particular piece of wood.
All necks are not the same as far as screw-tightening abuse is concerned.
Some strip out very easily, some not so much, just depends.
But the moral here is that it is never necessary to do that to 'fix' something.
Masta' C
Well-known member
Exactly. Something's being left out
Its possible the truss rod hasn't been adjusted properly. There could be a good bit of back bow.
I would check the relief of the neck first
If there is direct wood/wood contact in the pocket, and the truss is adjusted properly, it looks like there could be a problem with tolerances of one of the parts.
A shim could fix this, but shouldn't need to have to do this.
I would assemble everything before finishing to make sure there isn't a problem.
It looks to me like the height of the neck in the pocket is appropriate for a non recessed Floyd guitar. Is that an option when ordering a neck? A non recessed floyd, strings are higher off the body.
I would check the relief of the neck first
If there is direct wood/wood contact in the pocket, and the truss is adjusted properly, it looks like there could be a problem with tolerances of one of the parts.
A shim could fix this, but shouldn't need to have to do this.
I would assemble everything before finishing to make sure there isn't a problem.
It looks to me like the height of the neck in the pocket is appropriate for a non recessed Floyd guitar. Is that an option when ordering a neck? A non recessed floyd, strings are higher off the body.
Last edited:
superpete
Active member
this isn't my build, but i am pretty well versed in warmoth options...if you order a non recessed floyd rout, they definitely cut the neck pocket differently. it is at what they call their "small angle".
ErikH
Well-known member
There's not a Floyd Rose on it or his Fenders so it's a moot point. Look at the pics. The last two that do not say Fender on them are the Warmoth. It's a hard tail.
BUT, when getting a non-recessed Floyd bridge, Warmoth does angle the neck pocket for proper action. A recessed Floyd route comes with the normal flat neck pocket.
BUT, when getting a non-recessed Floyd bridge, Warmoth does angle the neck pocket for proper action. A recessed Floyd route comes with the normal flat neck pocket.
