Warmoth Project #2

Mincer

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You can read about the first Warmoth project here and here.

The parts for this one are slowly coming in. The hard part is resisting the temptation to just grab what is available, and rushing through this. I am slowly gathering the parts taking time to get exactly what I want.

So far, I got:
  • Hipshot open gear locking tuners (black).
  • Wilkinson VS100 bridge in black.
  • An LSR roller nut
  • Schaller S-Lock strap locks
  • black dome metal knobs
  • a TrueTone jack
  • Fancy switch (you can read about it here)
  • copper tape, which is conductive on both sides
The pickups will be based on the Seth Lovers, unpotted, with the neck being rw/rp. They will look like this when done:
duncan black.jpg

The body shape will be a Velocity, which is unusual for me. It is like an elongated Tele, or like an EVH-type. It will be clear black korina on the back, and stained red quilted maple on the top (satin finish). This should show up in a few weeks. I will post pics when it gets here.

The neck is a 24.75 conversion neck, with the Warhead headstock. It is roasted flame maple, with an ebony fretboard & scalloped frets. The frets are a medium jumbo with a more pronounced point on them. Here are some pics right out of the box. It has been raining for a few days, so I couldn't get it in sunlight. The flame is pretty pronounced.

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This neck will be burnished, which is sanding the back with 600-2000 grit sandpaper. When it is finished, it should shine like there is a finish (roasted maple doesn't require any finish). Sanding will take time, so I am doing it in 45 minute sessions as I get to finer grades of paper.

I will be adding more to this thread as parts come in, and I work on assembling this.
 

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I love that neck, aside from the scallops. :D Can’t wait to see it come together. Roasted maple is so awesome to play on.
 
What are you using for a neck finish? Roasted maple is fine without anything, but Frank Falbo used an extremely thin coat of Tru oil rubbed into mine. It feels raw, and I hit it with some Burt’s Feed & Wax beeswax occasionally to keep it pretty and ultra slick.
 
What are you using for a neck finish? Roasted maple is fine without anything, but Frank Falbo used an extremely thin coat of Tru oil rubbed into mine. It feels raw, and I hit it with some Burt’s Feed & Wax beeswax occasionally to keep it pretty and ultra slick.

I am using the Birchwood Casey gun stock wax, like on my Music Man. Just a very tiny amount.
 
I am still in the sanding phase. Did 600, 100, & 1200 for about 45-60 minutes each. It doesn't take hardly any wood off- just polishes what is there. Tonight I will do an hour with 2000, switching out the paper every 10 minutes. The powder loads up the paper quickly. Had I gotten polishing cloth, I could just rinse it, but I went with disposable paper, cut into 6" squares. Once this is done, the sanding for the whole project is over, and I can start putting together the tuners and LSR nut.
Thing is about roasted maple, while very stable, is that you have to be careful. Every screw needs the correct size pilot hole, or else it can crack. Good news is that on the neck, the holes are already drilled for the body and the nut. The tuners have a mounting plate that doesn't require any holes to drill.
 
Sweet project. What's your thoughts on the roller nut? I've read mixed reviews. Some say great for a tremolo, while others say "tone suckers."
 
Sweet project. What's your thoughts on the roller nut? I've read mixed reviews. Some say great for a tremolo, while others say "tone suckers."

Great for trem use. I never have directly compared on the same guitar with a traditional one, and then a roller one. But the Strats that came from the factory with one always sounded great, and I have no complaints.
 
You're following Cagey's method of burnishing the neck?

Exactly! My results are similar to his. It looks and feels fantastic. For anyone interested, the thread on the Warmoth forum is here.

How did you choose the True Tone jack?

Read about it, then came across someone I knew selling it in a lot of parts. It is black, so it will match the hardware. I don't know if it is any better than a Switchcraft, as I've never directly compared. But it is a seriously industrial piece of hardware.
 
I might try that sanding method out on my roasted maple neck. It plays and feels amazing but I'm up for making it better. I've got some other work to do on it as well, adding resistor to the WLH neck split to make it a partial split, level/crown/polish the frets. Perfect time to sand the back of the neck.

My old Warmoth neck has been played so much it's got the perfect feel it to it. That one is staying as-is.
 
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I finished sanding last night. 1 hour with 2000 grit, and then Birchwood Casey Gun Stock wax. You wipe it on with a paper towel, let it sit for 10 minutes, and wipe it off. The neck feels like glass now without that 'sticky' feeling of plastic finishes.
I do a similar procedure on my Music Man neck every year: sand with 600 and 1000 grit, clean with Murphy's Oil Soap, and then the Gun Stock Wax.

Today I will most likely get to the installation of the LSR nut, and the tuners. The holes for the nut are already drilled, and the tuners don't need additional holes.
 
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