Re: what jcm 900 model is this? - any good?
Hey Sune. Unfortunately I don't have any sound clips of mine. I'm hoping to at some point but it will be a while and you'll probably have yours before I get to it.
I'm going to share with you a few tips on playing with the gain and pre-amp levels to get the most out of it.
First, the pre-amp level (1-10) adjusts the primary gain. The gain level (11-20) adjusts the secondary gain. (Yes, they are two different controls on these). Now, the gain level can take you from JCM800 mild crunch to completely insane overdrive. It really does kick it in to high gear. The way I run it is I set the pre-amp gain at 10, gain about half-way. This is a really nice middle ground for good 'ol rock-n-roll. I then use a booster to slam the front end harder. Granted, that booster doesn't boost the volume any really but it sends a higher level signal in to the pre-amp which makes it overdrive some more. Sometimes I'll play with the pre-amp still on 10 but the gain at zero and use an overdrive like the Wylde OD or Boss SD-1 and slam it that way. There's my clean (sorta clean anyway) or dirty. Play with it, you'll find the right settings for you. Heck, yours may be pre-amp on 10 and gain on 20.
Just so you know, there are diodes in the gain stage of this amp but the clipping diodes are in the secondary gain stage (gain level control). But to be totally honest, the way they did it, you can't really tell. It is very warm sounding and the tone doesn't thin out at all like it does on other amps. In all actuality, it gets fatter as you turn the gain level up.
Now, for the footswitch, like mentioned, all that will do is switch between two different volumes (Master A and Master B). Master B is perfect for soloing in a band situation. I use Master A mostly so I rarely switch over but it's there if I need it. Also, without the footswitch plugged in, the red light will be on meaning it is on Master Volume B. If you want to always use Master A, just take a 1/4" plug without a cable, connect the tip and sleeve connections together within the fitting and plug it in. The light will go out and you are now able to use Master A. If you want to switch between them, then by all means get a single button footswitch. Just sharing an option with you.
It looks like everything else was covered by Zerb and Imp. If you want a manual that will help explain the controls, you can get one from the Marshall web site. Unfortunately they don't have one for the Mk III models but the one for the SL-X will do since the controls are the same.
Oh yeah, you asked the difference between the Mk III and the SL-X. One pre-amp tube, that's it. In all honesty, I think that additional pre-amp tube hurt the sound of the amp and made it too buzzy. It's not as warm sound as the Mk III. Plus, many more of the SL-X (or Mk IV) came with 5881's as opposed to the Mk III models which came only with EL34's.
My speaker cab is an old Music Man 4x12 and to be honest, I have no idea what speakers are in it. They aren't labeled and I can't find any info on it. All I know is that it has been able to handle everything I've thrown at it, and that includes my Marshall at full blast and before that, a 5150 at full blast. Those speakers have held up so well I don't wanna change them. If you can't get a 4x12, look at a 2x12.
Something I forgot to add. These amps, the JCM900 2100/2500 Mk III were the next evolution of the JCM800 2203/2204 Master Volumes. The JCM900 4100/4500 were based of the JCM800 2205/2210.