Which one to choose and why?

Re: Which one to choose and why?

Well, there are no good Steinbergers currently being produced, not the paddle ones or the ones with a Strat-type body. The ones now are really cheap versions. Kiesel makes the Vader, though, which looks pretty evil.

I'd take a Strandberg over a Kiesel if going that route:
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Re: Which one to choose and why?

Dave - we got a Steinberger with a body on CL right now...
 
Re: Which one to choose and why?

I’d have to see how they all feel and play.

Which neck do you like best? That’s what makes me pick a guitar. I like thin necks like Ibanez. I hate baseball bat necks. Some people love them.

Everything else you can change.


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Re: Which one to choose and why?

I looked at that one, but I'm not quite sure how the tremolo would hold tuning stability during extreme dive bombing, since the guitar has no locking nut.

Judging from the comments I have seen in Charvel groups I would very much avoid them for this very reason. They apparently sell well, but I fail to see who the market for this is...
 
Re: Which one to choose and why?

Charvel is meh. I finally traded my So Cal (with a troublesome neck that won't stay straight and with poking ends) a month ago with an almost brand new 2018 FGN Odyssey. Best decision I ever made in guitar collecting. The dope was so enarmored with the case that he actually threw in an SD Dirty Deeds, a Blackstar HT (the yellow one) and a Boss MultiOvertone pedals to cover just the case.

I have an Ibanez Prestige but not as impressed as I used to be anymore. Get a Schecter, or a Washburn Parallaxe if you can find one.
 
Re: Which one to choose and why?

A couple of good suggestions have been made already: Ibanez RG, a decent Ibanez S would get you a long way too, but you'll need the later versions, they used to be 22 frets up to a certain year.
ESP LTD's are a valid option as well. Jackson Dinky (or Charvel) or Soloist is another option. Depends if you like set-neck or bolt on in the Jackson case.

You may want to check these out as well:
https://www.thomann.de/be/harley_benton_fusion_ii_hh_fr_eb_fblb.htm

Seems incredible value for money: A Floyd Rose 1000, stainless steel frets, spokewheel trus rod adjustment, Grover machine heads, ... for a price that is incredibly low.
They come in a lot of colors, you can choose from ebony, maple and roasted maple fretboards.
Seems to offer a lot of what you are after, except the reversed headstock, and for the price they are offered... definitely worth looking into!
 
Re: Which one to choose and why?

I looked at that one, but I'm not quite sure how the tremolo would hold tuning stability during extreme dive bombing, since the guitar has no locking nut.

Graph tech nut and locking tuners. You don’t need a locking nut with that. Just set it up and play.

That one looks like an awesome model. Comes stock with a Screamin’ Demon and A2P with a series/parallel switch (never seem that stock before), EVH pots and no load tone control. It’s giving me GAS.
 
Re: Which one to choose and why?

Graph tech nut and locking tuners. You don’t need a locking nut with that. Just set it up and play.

That one looks like an awesome model. Comes stock with a Screamin’ Demon and A2P with a series/parallel switch (never seem that stock before), EVH pots and no load tone control. It’s giving me GAS.

Unfinished roasted maple necks are sex.
 
Re: Which one to choose and why?

...a decent Ibanez S would get you a long way too, but you'll need the later versions, they used to be 22 frets up to a certain year.

If Ibanez would have offered this thing with floating tremolo this post would not exist, since I would have bought it as soon as it was released, I guess.https://www.ibanez.com/na/products/detail/s61al_1p_01.html


...Jackson Dinky (or Charvel) or Soloist is another option. Depends if you like set-neck or bolt on in the Jackson case.
No preference really, as long as the cosntruction is solid. I've seen great examples of both methods of construction.


I've read great comments about those. Could be an option, but for some reason it looks too good to be true... I meand at this price point.
 
Which one to choose and why?

Idk...although graphtech nuts are excellent (I have them in 2 guitars) I can’t imagine Floyd rose usage AND it staying in tune. The guitars I have them in are not trem equips and I still need to tune them very regularly.

Unless of course the bridge in that pic is a hard tail...I can’t see it very well on my phone. If it is hardtail then the GTech is a big step up.
 
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Re: Which one to choose and why?

Idk...although graphtech nuts are excellent (I have them in 2 guitars) I can’t imagine Floyd rose usage AND it staying in tune. The guitars I have them in are not trem equips and I still need to tune them very regularly.

Unless of course the bridge in that pic is a hard tail...I can’t see it very well on my phone. If it is hardtail then the GTech is a big step up.

It’s the locking tuners and how you thread/wrap them that do most of the work.
 
Re: Which one to choose and why?

It’s the locking tuners and how you thread/wrap them that do most of the work.

How do you do it?
With locking tuners I’ve always just pulled the string through and clamped. I thought that was the big benefit to locking vs standard tuners....no?
 
Re: Which one to choose and why?

How do you do it?
With locking tuners I’ve always just pulled the string through and clamped. I thought that was the big benefit to locking vs standard tuners....no?

Yes, no wraps around the post. I even have them on a Brian May guitar, which has a basic Strat bridge, and I’ve done VH dive bombs and pulled it sharp (the bridge floats a bit) and it returned to zero perfectly across all strings. The strings do make a difference also. For example, coated and steel strings stay in tune better than nickel strings IME
 
Re: Which one to choose and why?

Yes, no wraps around the post. I even have them on a Brian May guitar, which has a basic Strat bridge, and I’ve done VH dive bombs and pulled it sharp (the bridge floats a bit) and it returned to zero perfectly across all strings. The strings do make a difference also. For example, coated and steel strings stay in tune better than nickel strings IME

Do you find you need to widen the nut slots a bit to allow for string travel (so they don’t bind in the nut)?
 
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