Wiring for a 2-way toggle Mod [series/parallel] into HSH +1-vol/1-tone/5-way blade?

[Deim0s]

Hello everyone!

I'm really looking forward into modding my washburn x-40 guitar. What I want to do is change its pickups and add a 2-way toggle switch for changing the humbuckers between series & parallel.

The guitar has the following specs:

Construction: bolt-on
Body: basswood
Neck: maple
Fingerboard: rosewood
Scale: 25,5"
Frets: 24
Bridge: Schaller Floyd Rose
Tuners: Grover
Pickups: Seymour Duncan Head Hunter EL921,EL922,EL923
Controls: 5-Way Switch, 1 volume, 1 tone
Year: 2004

I was looking at Seymour Duncan pickups for an HSH configuration, focused on versatility and bright sound, so for the moment I'm inclined for these pickups:

Neck: SH-6n Distortion
Middle: SL59-1b Little '59 for Strat
Bridge: SH-6b Distortion

But any recommendations on pickups would be really helpful!

For the 5-way switch blade I would like to keep the default:

Pos 1. Neck HB
Pos 2. Neck HB + Middle SC
Pos 3. Middle SC
Pos 4. Bridge HB + Middle SC
Pos 5. Bridge HB

And the extra mod would be the 2-way toggle that changes the Humbuckers between series and parallel.

Is it possible? Could anyone help me with the wiring diagram?
Also, I think the current pickups on the guitar only have 2 conductor cables (not sure, haven't removed them yet), the modern ones are 4 conductors... So would I need to change all the electronics?

This is my first hands-on project on guitar and I'm really motivated to do it, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance to anyone taking the time to read!

 

[Mincer]

You would need 1 switch per pickup to switch between series + parallel. As far as changing the pickups, it really depends on what you don't like about the stock pickups. What do you want from a middle pickup? If you want versatility, I would suggest a Classic Stack in the middle for a noiseless true single coil sound. What do you want to change about the neck and bridge pickups? The Distortions are great pickups, but not the most versatile. I'd choose lower output pickups and boost them later on, if versatility is a big deal to you.

 

[Bowtomecha]

You can use a two way 4pdt toggle switch for this. Imagine two DPDT switches but both controlled by one lever. You can have series/parallel for each humbucker simultaneously but electrically separate. The contact pattern will repeat for both sides of the switch so as long as you follow the color coding of your pickup manufacturer, the connections will be exactly the same.

 

[Bowtomecha]

It must be an on/on 4pdt with two positions. They come in smaller arm size as shown and larger arm ones which seem a bit bulky for what you need. These aren’t expensive on eBay since they’re two position switches.

 

[Artie]

. . . focused on versatility and bright sound . . .

I'm not sure I'd select Distortions for "bright." But let others, who are actually performing musicians, weigh in on this.

It must be an on/on 4pdt with two positions. They come in smaller arm size as shown and larger arm ones which seem a bit bulky for what you need. These aren’t expensive on eBay since they’re two position switches.

I'd be careful not to get a cheap Chinese switch in this application. Get a good quality NKK, or similar. Also note, that at some suppliers, (like Mouser), an ON-ON switch may be designated as ON-NONE-ON. Same thing. They're just saying that there is no middle position.

 

[Deim0s]

Hello everyone, thank you so much for the responses!

I've been putting a lot of thought into this project, so I really appreciate the help. I'm gonna start buying the pickups and electronics this week, I'm nervous and excited for my first guitar modding.

I'm currently leaning for these pickups:

Neck: SH-2n Jazz
Middle: SL59-1b Little '59 for Strat
Bridge: SH-6b Distortion Trembucker OR SH-4 JB Trembucker

Since I'll first buy the pickups, I'll need some opinions on the TB-6 Distortion or the TB-4 JB for the bridge position.
I kind of like the sound of JB better, but I've read the Distortion has better harmonics. I was thinking that the 4 Position of the Little '59 plus the distortion could make up for versatility.
I was also torn between a '59 and the Jazz for the neck, but then i realized the '59 is a 2 conductor pickup, so I can't use it for this project.

You can use a two way 4pdt toggle switch for this. Imagine two DPDT switches but both controlled by one lever. You can have series/parallel for each humbucker simultaneously but electrically separate. The contact pattern will repeat for both sides of the switch so as long as you follow the color coding of your pickup manufacturer, the connections will be exactly the same.

This is a really interesting concept, would it be possible to have an on/on/on switch for also adding coil-splitting?

I'd be careful not to get a cheap Chinese switch in this application. Get a good quality NKK, or similar. Also note, that at some suppliers, (like Mouser), an ON-ON switch may be designated as ON-NONE-ON. Same thing. They're just saying that there is no middle position.

Good call. I'm gonna get Mouser electronics from a local supplier.

The attached file is of a wiring diagram I've found online, does it look good? I know it doesn't do the same, but it seems really interesting.

 

[GuitarDoc]

First of all: you want bright and versatile...the Distortion is neither.
You want a SC in the middle and bright...the Lil 59 is neither.
The 59 does also come in a 4 conductor version.
You have the switch positions backwards...pos 1 is bridge and pos 5 is neck.

For neck: Jazz is a good choice
For middle: Mincer gave a good suggestion.
For bridge: a C/59 hybrid or a Custom 5 would be a better choice (you may like a JB, but it's not very versatile...output is too high but mostly it has that upper mids nasal tone going on that you can't get rid of).
A on/on/on will give you series/split/parallel. I suppose it is available in a 4PDT, but I would suggest having 2 DPDT on/on/on switches so you can control each humbucker separately (like in your diagram).

 

[Deim0s]

First of all: you want bright and versatile...the Distortion is neither.
You want a SC in the middle and bright...the Lil 59 is neither.
The 59 does also come in a 4 conductor version.
You have the switch positions backwards...pos 1 is bridge and pos 5 is neck.

For neck: Jazz is a good choice
For middle: Mincer gave a good suggestion.
For bridge: a C/59 hybrid or a Custom 5 would be a better choice (you may like a JB, but it's not very versatile...output is too high but mostly it has that upper mids nasal tone going on that you can't get rid of).
A on/on/on will give you series/split/parallel. I suppose it is available in a 4PDT, but I would suggest having 2 DPDT on/on/on switches so you can control each humbucker separately (like in your diagram).

Thanks GuitarDoc! I've did some research and the Custom 5 seems like a great pairing with the Jazz for Neck. Unfortunately, I'm buying from a local store here in Chile, and it doesn't have the Classic Stack in stock, so I'll have to go with the Little 59'. The Seymour Duncan web says that the SH-5 pairs well with a '59 so it will probably go well with the L59 in middle position.

So wrapping up, I'll be buying:

Neck: SH-2n Jazz
Middle: SL59-1b Little '59
Bridge: TB-14 Custom 5 Trembucker

Once I get them and the electronic parts I'll get hands on with the wiring... So I'll probably be asking for help again.
Thanks again to everyone for the pickup suggestions!

 

[Deim0s]

I was just told in the store that they didn't have the Custom 5 in stock... They do have the TB-5 Custom. What aboud a TB-10 Full Shred? It's medium gain, would it be better than the TB-5 / JB / Distortion?

 

[Mincer]

The Full Shred is brighter with less bass than the Custom 5. An option is to get the Custom and swap the magnet out.

 

[Deim0s]

An option is to get the Custom and swap the magnet out.

I could try that. Though I don't know how complicated it is, I might need some help or references on how to do it. Also, for the bridge pickup I really want good sustain and easy pinch harmonics. Would this still be good for it?

 

[Mincer]

I could try that. Though I don't know how complicated it is, I might need some help or references on how to do it. Also, for the bridge pickup I really want good sustain and easy pinch harmonics. Would this still be good for it?

Magnet swapping is not hard....even I can do it! There are a ton of threads on this forum about it. Here is one.

 

[Deim0s]

Thank you Mincer! I'm gonna buy the TB-5 Duncan Custom then, I'm assuming the sustain and harmonics part is covered.

I'm really having trouble picking the correct pieces from the Mouser store. I'm thinking about changing all the electronic parts, and I have so many questions about them that I'm just gonna list the electronic parts I chose so far and hope somebody will tell me if I messed up (please :help

DPDT ON-ON-ON Switch: https://www.mouser.cl/ProductDetail/...JSRC79EQ%3D%3D

Potentiometers (I chose Push/Pull to experiment with Phase switch in the future, I guess they can be wired as a normal potentiometer?): https://www.mouser.cl/ProductDetail/...h16LTryQ%3D%3D

DPDT ON-ON Switch: https://www.mouser.cl/ProductDetail/...rk%252Bw%3D%3D

Output Jack (2 options): 1.- https://www.mouser.cl/ProductDetail/...S%252B4A%3D%3D 2.- https://www.mouser.cl/ProductDetail/...lTuIE4TA%3D%3D

And I'm not sure which wires and capacitor to buy, the latter was recommended as 0.033 uF from the creator of the wiring diagram I posted, but there are several options at that capacitance with different voltage ratings. The wires also have different voltage ratings, gauge and stranding so I don't know if there's a "standard" for guitar wiring components.

I'm very interested in learning all this stuff but I'm not sure where to start. I really want to make the most out of the sound my old guitar can make, while learning useful and interesting "hands-on" knowledge. I'm trying to make the most out of "social distancing" by learning, so if anyone knows good study material for electronics I would greatly appreciate it :bowdown:

 

[GuitarDoc]

Nothing wrong with the Neutrik jack. Yes you can always wire up the p/p portion of the pot later if you want (it functions as a DPDT switch). You could use a .033uf cap but my choice would be .022uf.
The Lil 59 in the middle position should be fine. You don't need to be concerned about the voltages. It's only important if you plan on using them in high voltage situations...a guitar is not. For wire, I use 24 ga stranded pre-tinned with silicone insulation. It's very easy to work with (way easier than wire with pvc type insulation). But any stranded wire 20-28 ga will be fine.
Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB5G82W...v_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[Deim0s]

Nothing wrong with the Neutrik jack. Yes you can always wire up the p/p portion of the pot later if you want (it functions as a DPDT switch). You could use a .033uf cap but my choice would be .022uf.
The Lil 59 in the middle position should be fine. You don't need to be concerned about the voltages. It's only important if you plan on using them in high voltage situations...a guitar is not. For wire, I use 24 ga stranded pre-tinned with silicone insulation. It's very easy to work with (way easier than wire with pvc type insulation). But any stranded wire 20-28 ga will be fine.
Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB5G82W...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Thank you so much GuitarDoc! That was really helpful. I will search through the Mouser catalog to find some good wires. I'll get both a .033uf and a 0.022uf capacitor to try them and see which delivers better tone range.

Another thing... they're still preparing the pickup order in the store and I realized they have an SSL-5 Custom Staggered RwRp. Would it be better than the L59? I believe it would be way more versatile to have a true single coil, but I'm not sure that the RwRp configuration will work with humbuckers? I know it does with other single coils.

 

[GuitarDoc]

I would personally choose the SSL-5 over the L59.

 

[Deim0s]

Hello again, everyone!
I wanted to post here again to update on this project for anyone interested.

Today I finally got delivered the last item (copper tape) i was missing to start modding my guitar, but since this is my first time doing soldering and also because I couldn't wait to try them I've already installed the pickups on the guitar, so I could practice some more soldering before installing the new pieces and try out the sound of the pickups. I also did some very needed cleaning.

Here's a picture of how it's looking now:

The sound of the pickups is just amazing, really bright, clear and crisp. I was pretty amazed at how much of a difference it made from the stock pickups, it really feels like a different guitar. Also the difference in output was another thing that inmediately caught my attention, I used to simply lose sound at below 30% of the volume before.

I really loved the sound, though the neck and middle pickups have some buzz even when slightly distorted, but the bridge pickup doesn't have any. I first thought that since I'm still learning how to solder properly, it could've been that the ground solder into the volume pot for the new pickups wasn't that good, so I redid the soldering, but the noise was still there. I also tried lowering the pickup height but the sound started losing too much sustain before there was a noticeable change in the buzz.

So now I'm thinking that since these pickups have higher output than the old ones, maybe the old electronics can't handle them or they pick more interference from wifi or cellphone signals here in my apartment. I hope the copper shielding will solve it.

Also, for anyone interested, those old Headhunter Seymour Duncans had 3 wires (black, red and yellow) and I couldn't find that color code anywhere, it took me a while but I figured out that red was north and south finish (red and white), yellow was the hot output (black) and black was ground (green and bare) in the current 5-wire color code.

I was also wondering if anyone could help me figure out how to do phase switching for the humbuckers with push/pull pots. I was thinking of somehow adding that into the previous wiring diagram I posted.

 

[Mincer]

Congrats on the most excellent looking guitar! As far as phase switching goes, are you looking for one of the humbuckers to have a phase switch? That could be in a push-pull before the pickup goes to the 5 way switch. You could then have it in phase or out of phase with any of the 2 other pickups. As far as the noise, did you end up with the SSL-5? That pickup will certainly hum, being a single coil pickup. It is a loud single coil pickup, so the hum would be louder. The Jazz, however, should be as quiet as the other humbucker.

 

[Deim0s]

Thanks Mincer! I'm really excited about this project, and I'm really happy with the improvement so far. By the way, I took some pictures of the pickup installation and cleaning of the guitar, so I wanted to share them here. The SSL-5 really packs a punch, I didn't expect a single coil to be so loud, but to me it sounds really good mixed with the other two pickups. All the 5 positions in the switch are strikingly different from eachother, for example, it was interesting to me that the 4th position (neck split + single coil) gives a really "acoustic" sound, it almost sounds like a piezo but with less attack on the strings. The Jazz model does have a some noise and I'm not sure where is coming from. I'm hoping it goes away when I use new parts for the wiring. Also, I hope the copper shielding will help a bit with the SSL-5 noise too.

I was thinking of using two push-pull pots (vol and tone), could it be possible to use each for the humbuckers so they both could be out of phase with the rest? Or maybe I'm just confused on how phase switching works. Would it make any difference using two push-pulls? Or one would be enough? Also, Should the output of the pickups go first into the series/split/parallel switch and then into the push/pull phase switching?

One last thing I wanted to ask Mincer, when you mentioned swapping out the TB-5 magnet on a previous post, did you mean changing the ceramic magnet for an alnico V? What would that do to the sound of the pickup?

 

[Mincer]

Swapping the magnet on a Custom with an A5 gets you a Custom 5 (less mids, tight bass and treble) or swap with an A2 gets you a Custom Custom, which has a lot of mids, less bass and treble (a really great sound, too).
As far as phase switching, you'd only need 1 switch on 1 pickup, usually just the middle, so when used in combo with another in-phase pickup, you get the thin & hollow out-of-phase sound. I'd use it on the middle pickup if anything, but it isn't a popular sound. Worth trying, though, if you are curious.
A pickup is out of phase with other pickups, not with itself.