Yes, another push/pull pot thread

[TinPan]

I picked up 2 500K p/p pots for split coil use in my SG, problem: the holes on the 6 prong box are too small for 2 wires that are twisted together (as per instructions) to fit through. Anyone know where I can find the pot in the photo, with the exception I need split (short) shaft.

 

[Darg1911]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

That's not a push pull pot. That's a dual ganged (stereo) pot.

You do not need to twist the two wires such that they both feed through the lug of a standard push pull pot. You have several options. You can strip one wire a little long and insert it through the lug. Then twist the second wire to the extra wire that's sticking through the lug and then solder everything. You can strip one wire back longer than needed, twist the second wire close to the insulation of the first wire and just insert the stripped end of the first wire through the lug and solder it all up. You can also solder the wires to the lug without inserting through the hole in the lug. Or, solder one through the lug hole and the other to the side of the lug. You can also use a small needle file or awl, and if you are careful, you can slightly enlarge the hole if all you need is for it to be a tiny bit larger. Lot's of ways to skin the cat.

Otherwise, you can pick up a CTS DPDT push pull pot. The switch portion is mounted to a PCB and I believe the holes are 1.5mm which should be larger than a standard box style push pull.

https://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/Potentiometers_x/CTS-500K-DPDT-Push-Pull-Potentiometer

 

[Artie]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

You can also solder the wires to the lug without inserting through the hole in the lug.

This is what I often do.

 

[beaubrummels]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

I picked up 2 500K p/p pots for split coil use in my SG, problem: the holes on the 6 prong box are too small for 2 wires that are twisted together (as per instructions) to fit through. Anyone know where I can find the pot in the photo, with the exception I need split (short) shaft. View attachment 93385

First, you’ll want an actual push-pull, not what’s in the picture. Second, the lugs on a push-pull are even smaller but many guitar players been putting two wires through those for years, pickup wires that is.

If you are using some other wire to extend the wires and wire up your guitar, it will cause you those kinds of problems. If you need to extend pickup wire, use replacement pickup wire, which is easily available.

If you do the trick mentioned above, soldering the wire to the lug without threading it, try to ensure the wire is contacting the lug directly and the solder is encasing that connection, as well as holding it together. Try not to have the solder be the connection (though it might work)

 

[Adieu]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

Repeat after me: I will toss one of my tonepots or drill a new hole. And mount a minitoggle. Separately.

Trust me if the holes or lack thereof on lugs bug ya, attempts to wire a pushpull shaft switch equipped potentiometer is beyond your capabilities for the moment.

Also, unless you use one specific type of Tele knob with set screw (and just *some* not all of those), that potentiometer design above will NOT work for you because your knobs won't mount. You need a specific number of splines on the shadt end, matching your knobs, else itll fall off. Which is also suddenly way more relevant in a pushpull than usual because it gets yanked up and hammered down regularly.


PS btw that thing above is a single-shaft dependent concentric double pot aka a "blend" used for mixing two audio signals. It replaces pickup selectors.... another lookalike is a double shaft concentric pot or stacked pot, which is just two independent pots crammed into one hole for saving space

 

[TinPan]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

That's not a push pull pot. That's a dual ganged (stereo) pot.

You do not need to twist the two wires such that they both feed through the lug of a standard push pull pot. You have several options. You can strip one wire a little long and insert it through the lug. Then twist the second wire to the extra wire that's sticking through the lug and then solder everything. You can strip one wire back longer than needed, twist the second wire close to the insulation of the first wire and just insert the stripped end of the first wire through the lug and solder it all up. You can also solder the wires to the lug without inserting through the hole in the lug. Or, solder one through the lug hole and the other to the side of the lug. You can also use a small needle file or awl, and if you are careful, you can slightly enlarge the hole if all you need is for it to be a tiny bit larger. Lot's of ways to skin the cat.

Otherwise, you can pick up a CTS DPDT push pull pot. The switch portion is mounted to a PCB and I believe the holes are 1.5mm which should be larger than a standard box style push pull.

https://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/Potentiometers_x/CTS-500K-DPDT-Push-Pull-Potentiometer

Thank you Darg1911 you are correct the one in the photo is not a push/pull. However an extra thank's for some very useful info. yoo da man!

 

[TinPan]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

Repeat after me: I will toss one of my tonepots or drill a new hole. And mount a minitoggle. Separately.

Trust me if the holes or lack thereof on lugs bug ya, attempts to wire a pushpull shaft switch equipped potentiometer is beyond your capabilities for the moment.

Also, unless you use one specific type of Tele knob with set screw (and just *some* not all of those), that potentiometer design above will NOT work for you because your knobs won't mount. You need a specific number of splines on the shadt end, matching your knobs, else itll fall off. Which is also suddenly way more relevant in a pushpull than usual because it gets yanked up and hammered down regularly.


PS btw that thing above is a single-shaft dependent concentric double pot aka a "blend" used for mixing two audio signals. It replaces pickup selectors.... another lookalike is a double shaft concentric pot or stacked pot, which is just two independent pots crammed into one hole for saving space

I stand corrected the pot in the photo is not a push/pull. However I have no intention of drilling any holes which is why the need for a p/p...

 

[Artie]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

However I have no intention of drilling any holes which is why the need for a p/p...

This isn't as daunting a task as it might sound, with the right tools. I got this little pin-vise, and a selection of tiny bits from one of those hobby stores. Comes in handy for a variety of tasks. The bits store in the handle. The lugs on the p-p are fairly soft metal.

 

[TinPan]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

This isn't as daunting a task as it might sound, with the right tools. I got this little pin-vise, and a selection of tiny bits from one of those hobby stores. Comes in handy for a variety of tasks. The bits store in the handle. The lugs on the p-p are fairly soft metal.

View attachment 93400

Great idea!

 

[TinPan]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

Ok, I managed to get both pots soldered neatly, But there is a problem, perhaps I have something backwards, the bridge works fine split from double to single coil smoothly and very little hum in single coil, however the neck pup does not split, no change engaging the push/pull. Here is a photo of the diagram I followed.

 

[Darg1911]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

If all the wiring is right and soldering is good, possibly a bad switch on the push pull pot. I bought 10 Bourns push pulls a while back and had one with a bad switch. Didn't test it first, so I didn't know it until I had it wired up and the split didn't work.

 

[beaubrummels]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

My first guess is the neck push pull switch wires don’t properly ground in split position.

 

[GuitarDoc]

Re: Yes, another push/pull pot thread

The diagram you used is correct and if you correctly followed that diagram your guitar WILL function properly. Chances are the fault is with your soldering.

Yes, sometimes a switch can be bad from the mfr, but in reality that is rare.

Here's a little trick I use to just about totally eliminate a faulty switch (one that doesn't work or that may pop or crackle when switching). You've got a DPDT switch there but you're only using one half of it. It's pretty rare that both halves would be bad. So, just shunt both halves together. Now you've got two switches working for you.

I've tried that trick Artie mentioned but sometimes the holes are a little off center and when you try to enlarge them the hole splits out. Which is no big deal actually. You can use a lighter gauge wire, or you can just cut several strands off of the end of the wire you're soldering to help get it through the tiny holes. That's really the quickest and easiest thing to do.