You have $2000 for guitar(s). Do you buy one $2000 guitar, or....

[Snake Aces]

Is that true, even if buying a new Suhr through an authorized reseller?

I've never bought a 3K guitars. My best guitars cost 2K new, were Japanese Ibanez and they were flawless.

It seems that the amount of post build setup that a factory or builder does varies. In the case of that 1500 guitar, absolutely nothing was done. In the case of the 450 ESP, at least someone somewhere had done an "eyeball" intonation, the action was perfect, and the bridge was level.

If I was spending 3K for a guitar from a dealer, I would expect the neck/truss to be perfect, low action without any buzzing, perfect nut, intonation set, and everything polished to be fast and look great. Either the factory or the dealer would make sure all of these were correct.

Maybe thats unrealistic with some builders, but 1.5K+ used to get you that from Ibanez.

I guess my immediate thought is... is that Ibanez perfect by your standards or is it perfect by a luthier's standards?

This comes back to my point of how many players prefer affordable guitars that are almost perfect. You are probably describing an Ibanez that grades at a 9 or a 9.5 out of 10 by most luthier standards... but getting it to a 10 out of 10 probably requires some work. That is all I am saying

[Top-L]

I guess my immediate thought is... is that Ibanez perfect by your standards or is it perfect by a luthier's standards?

This comes back to my point of how many players prefer affordable guitars that are almost perfect. You are probably describing an Ibanez that grades at a 9 or a 9.5 out of 10 by most luthier standards... but getting it to a 10 out of 10 probably requires some work. That is all I am saying

Yes, its possible to lower the nut fractionally and have it plekked. That would take it from 9.5 to 10.

My experience with that 1500 guitar was that it had a neck problem and multiple manufacturing/cosmetic defects, along with not having any setup work done. It was a 3/10.

The LTD guitar I got, is a 9/10. I can lower the nut and have it plekked. I don't think my leveling skills would make it any better. Fret work is surprisingly good, but they were not polished.

Anything above a 9 is ok. For 3K+, I would expect a 9.5 or 10.

[Snake Aces]

Yes, its possible to lower the nut fractionally and have it plekked. That would take it from 9.5 to 10.

My experience with that 1500 guitar was that it had a neck problem and multiple manufacturing/cosmetic defects, along with not having any setup work done. It was a 3/10.

The LTD guitar I got, is a 9/10. I can lower the nut and have it plekked. I don't think my leveling skills would make it any better. Fret work is surprisingly good, but they were not polished.

Anything above a 9 is ok. For 3K+, I would expect a 9.5 or 10.

Most premium guitar suppliers cringe at the thought of selling a $3,000 instrument to an inexperienced player. For example, the setup in the store is not going to stay the same after sitting in a vehicle or trunk for an hour or two. After that, it is going to adjust to the climate of your living or practice space. So, things such as the intonation and truss rod adjustment are ALWAYS up to the buyer to take care of outside of the store. Always. No exceptions. Adjustments cannot be factored into the final grading of an instrument after it has left the store UNTIL readjustments are made to compensate for the new environment.

After that, everything else comes down to the fit, finish and functionality of a guitar. For $3,000, I personally expect a nearly flawless finish (to the naked eye) if it is a guitar valued at or around $3,000. If it is a guitar valued around $5,000 but priced at $3,000 because of a finish imperfection, that is a different story. I expect electronics to be functioning as they should with no exceptions at the $3,000, non-discounted range. I expect an instrument that a luthier would grade at 8.0 or above for $3,000.

At $3,000 I would also pay a luthier to come by my practice space to set up the guitar. Upon inspection, I expect the luthier to find at least one to three minor issues that need addressing. Chances are the bill will be around $150 to $500, depending on whether the guitar has stainless steel frets or not. I prefer SS frets whenever possible, no matter how much extra they cost to add or maintain.

Now the guitar should grade right around 9.8 to 9.9

I honestly do not think I have ever played a 10/10. If anyone has, I sure would like to play it myself...

[deathbytinnitus]

In my opinion guitars are so nice nowadays that there really is no need to buy an expensive guitar. My main guitar is a 200-250$ Ibanez RG2EX1 with an upgraded pickup. No one knows, and it sounds and plays very well. I would buy a lower intermediate level guitar, get it set up, upgrade the pickups, and spend the rest on a nice amp/cab.

[St_Genesius]

Assuming I'm ALSO keeping the instruments I already own, I'd probably drop the $2K on a single instrument. I've actually had $3k set aside for the past several months, just in case the right BFR comes around.

If I were starting from scratch, I'd split it up probably three ways: something thin and jangly, something honky and rude and something hot and smooth. In other words: low output single coils, p90s and medium-high output humbuckers.

[Masta' C]

This is a tough question. There is a huge case of diminishing returns as you spend more on guitars. A $5K PRS or Gibson doesn't offer much over a $2K PRS or Gibson aside from woods, finishes, and/or "limited edition" status.

It also depends on where you're coming from...are you looking to fill a hole in your existing collection or starting from scratch?

If I was looking to keep things simple and I was starting out again, I'd probably invest the $2K into a single guitar that offered a really broad tonal palette and most of the features I want. Personally, I'd probably opt for something like a John Petrucci model from MusicMan with its excellent pickups, great hardware, active onboard boost and built-in piezo system. You could easily get away with that as your only guitar then focus on amps, etc.

For "normal" purposes, I'd probably aim to find 2 really nice upper-midrange guitars ($800-$1200) that allow me a little flexibility and the ability to switch up the playing feel for added inspiration. Maybe a PRS "S2" series combined with a nice Strat or Tele.

That said, I'm as happy with my $500 used Chapman Norseman as I was with my $3K limited edition "wood library" PRS Custom 24 Floyd with similar specs. And if I had $2K to drop today, I'd probably just put together something I wanted using a Warmoth neck, custom pickups, and a custom body from one of a million sources online, then have it finished and set up by a reputable luthier for maximum playability.

[Ascension]

This is a common misconception. This is a result of the buyer attaching more value to the buying power of money than it actually has. Buyers expect perfection because they are spending $3,000, but the guitar still needs work to be a 10/10.

Although it is true that a low end instrument has more room for improvement, a $3,000 guitar still needs work. Any buyer expecting a 10/10 for the sole reason that they are spending $3,000 is setting themself up for a disappointment and an embarrassing outburst with the seller.

My 2017 Kiesel is about as close to perfection as any guitar I have ever picked up. I did swap the M22 bridge pickup for a Hybrid but the AP11's are fantastic and fit finish fretwork ect was perfection. SS frets and I expect to be playing this one in 20 years without a fret dress.Was $1800 with these options.

[Top-L]

This is a tough question. There is a huge case of diminishing returns as you spend more on guitars. A $5K PRS or Gibson doesn't offer much over a $2K PRS or Gibson aside from woods, finishes, and/or "limited edition" status.

It also depends on where you're coming from...are you looking to fill a hole in your existing collection or starting from scratch?

If I was looking to keep things simple and I was starting out again, I'd probably invest the $2K into a single guitar that offered a really broad tonal palette and most of the features I want. Personally, I'd probably opt for something like a John Petrucci model from MusicMan with its excellent pickups, great hardware, active onboard boost and built-in piezo system. You could easily get away with that as your only guitar then focus on amps, etc.

For "normal" purposes, I'd probably aim to find 2 really nice upper-midrange guitars ($800-$1200) that allow me a little flexibility and the ability to switch up the playing feel for added inspiration. Maybe a PRS "S2" series combined with a nice Strat or Tele.

That said, I'm as happy with my $500 used Chapman Norseman as I was with my $3K limited edition "wood library" PRS Custom 24 Floyd with similar specs. And if I had $2K to drop today, I'd probably just put together something I wanted using a Warmoth neck, custom pickups, and a custom body from one of a million sources online, then have it finished and set up by a reputable luthier for maximum playability.

When I started playing, tuning stability was a rare thing. I got my first floyd guitar and never looked back! Consequently, all of my guitars except acoustics have a FR trem. So yeah, there are some really big holes in my collection. That said, I always keep buying similar guitars over and over. I don't own a strat or a LP, but my various FR guitars have different pickups with different switching options.

If I was "smart" I would take the remaining 1500, buy a Player Strat and find a good used LP. But I figure I would never play them unless I was trying to go for a vintage look.

That said, I have gas for a V. I've never owned one and I think it would suit me. They always look good.

[Masta' C]

That said, I have gas for a V. I've never owned one and I think it would suit me. They always look good.

Can't go wrong with a V!

[Top-L]

SS frets and I expect to be playing this one in 20 years without a fret dress.Was $1800 with these options.

Unless the neck has mythic stability, it will change over time and the fret profile will not be as perfect as it is now. I think you will still need to get it leveled every 3-5 years.

[ehdwuld]

Unless the neck has mythic stability, it will change over time and the fret profile will not be as perfect as it is now. I think you will still need to get it leveled every 3-5 years.

Not really
A roasted maple neck would be stable as heck

A Keisel roasted neck with graphite rods
would be next level stable
and it comes standard with SS frets

[solspirit]

If I could drop two grand right now I'd go warmoth or something similar.
But then again I have the problem that I just can't buy a guitar unless it sings to me. Which is the main reason I've never bought at warmoth

[Top-L]

Not really
A roasted maple neck would be stable as heck

A Keisel roasted neck with graphite rods
would be next level stable
and it comes standard with SS frets

Come back to me in 20 years. Those guitars haven't been out there that long.

[Obsessive Compulsive]

Funny that some people associate expensive guitars with quality.

[Obsessive Compulsive]

Unless the neck has mythic stability, it will change over time and the fret profile will not be as perfect as it is now. I think you will still need to get it leveled every 3-5 years.

I reckon you have played electric guitar a lot longer than I do to come up with that conclusion. You learn something new every day...lol.