Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

That explanation just doesn't work, though I like the diagrams you drew.... Low action actually makes it so you never need to top wrap. Whether or not your strings contact the back of the bridge has to do with break angle, and nothing else.

'Low action actually makes it so you never need to top wrap' explanation just doesn't work for me as well. This is only applicable if the action is lowered with the hard tail staying put- this isn't the case with my situation. My hard tail needs to be lowered to make sure the pressure at the TOM is right to prevent the strings from popping out of the slots upon bending (as mentioned before), hence that contact happens & this causes buzzing. I guess this is avoidable for players with .010s (or thicker) in there- I use light gauge strings, .010s are a NO for me.

Thanks for the drawing complements :friday:
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

'Low action actually makes it so you never need to top wrap' explanation just doesn't work for me as well. This is only applicable if the action is lowered with the hard tail staying put- this isn't the case with my situation. My hard tail needs to be lowered to make sure the pressure at the TOM is right to prevent the strings from popping out of the slots upon bending (as mentioned before), hence that contact happens & this causes buzzing. I guess this is avoidable for players with .010s (or thicker) in there- I use light gauge strings, .010s are a NO for me.

Thanks for the drawing complements :friday:

I still don't get what you're saying. If your strings stay in the saddles at a certain height, then you lower the bridge, and then you lower the tailpiece the same amount, the strings will be just as secure as when the action was higher.
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

... lower the tailpiece the same amount, the strings will be just as secure as when the action was higher.

This didn't happen because I'm using light gauge strings; the hard tail piece went down more than the TOM in order for more pressure to be there. :headbang:
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

I still don't understand what you are saying.

You made a string gauge change simultaneously with a string height change?

At any rate, it doesn't matter; I'm just trying to understand what you are saying. Break angle is the only thing that does matter. Your strings will pop out of the saddles when bending, or not, based solely on the break angle, not based on how high or low the tailpiece is. There is no reason why, at the same break angle, top wrapped strings will stay in the saddles better when bending.

If your strings are popping out of your saddles, then you should notch your saddles deeper.
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

At any rate, it doesn't matter; I'm just trying to understand what you are saying. Break angle is the only thing that does matter. Your strings will pop out of the saddles when bending, or not, based solely on the break angle, not based on how high or low the tailpiece is.

Break angle- that was my point all along as well. Because I lowered the tail piece further than necessary (to ensure more pressure on the TOM bit), the break angle was messed up, it came into contact with the TOM, it buzzed.
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

I understand that your strings contacted the back of the bridge. But break angle is break angle; a top-strung tailpiece and a through-strung tailpiece resulting the the same break angle will give you the same pressure on the saddles; end of story. At a given break angle, your strings will stay in your saddles (or not stay in them) just as well whether you are top wrapped or strung through the tailpiece. The only differences between the two methods are how high the tailpiece sits and how much string length you have behind the bridge before the tailpiece...which don't affect anything but looks. You don't need to top wrap to solve your problem; it won't solve it. You need to notch your saddles.
 
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Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

I don't want to stir the pot, but other than lex666, how many of the folks writing against top-wrapping have actually tried it? It seems that some are making the *theoretical* case that it is unnecessary, while others are making the *empirical* case that it works for them.

It may not be for everybody, but don't knock it until you've tried it.

EDIT: To put it another way, what exactly is the disadvantage of top-wrap?
 
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Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

Break angle is indeed break angle, when it's messed up, it needs some looking into. My point was that the default settings wasn't maintained after the action adjustments & because I am not a tool person, deeper saddles notching didn't take place. A friend asked why I had to push the tail piece down that much because Gibson didn't do that to begin with. Told him it wasn't done out of fashion, I needed it to be way down to maintain the pressures.
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

I don't want to stir the pot, but other than lex666, how many of the folks writing against top-wrapping have actually tried it? It seems that some are making the *theoretical* case that it is unnecessary, while others are making the *empirical* case that it works for them.

It may not be for everybody, but don't knock it until you've tried it.

I've tried it. I'm not knocking it. I'm knocking a lot of the rationale behind it. I'm just saying, I wish folks would give up the pseudo science justifications for it. "Better transfer of vibration by having the tailpiece studs deeper in the inserts" is my personal least favorite explanation. At the bridge, I can see it, but not at the tailpiece. I highly doubt that this is true to any measurable degree, that having the studs lower actually results in more vibrational transfer to the body. Secondly, even if it is, it wouldn't do you any good anyhow. How does it help you to have a practically immeasurable amount of increase in vibrational transfer over an already practically immeasurable amount of vibrational transfer, from an area of the string that has no musical value anyhow?

Regardless, every article ever written on the subject is entirely subjective. There is no scientific proof one way or the other; that's what I'd be interested to read on the issue. That's what would make me change my mind. My point is, folks should just admit that it's for looks and be good with that. Doing something solely for looks makes total sense to me. Falsely believing that there is a tonal reason for it does not.
 
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Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

I tried it. Didn't like the feel of the strings on top of the tailpiece. Plus, some strings had ends that stuck out beyond the wrapping (at the ball end) that would poke my hand. Not good.

I have one tailpiece that is top wrapped that I put string ferrules in the string holes in the front of the tailpice to wrap more of the string around it. This kept the pointy string ends inside the tailpiece where they couldn't poke me.
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

I tried top wrapping and didn't notice any real world difference for me, plus I hate the way it looks so I don't do it.
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

Why can I never find a clip of that one Roseanne episode where Dan Connor and his neighbor are arguing over how to arrange the charcoal briquettes for grilling?
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

I've been top wrapping my Les Paul for years. I don't think it sounds any better, but I do like the feel and playability of the strings.
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

Top-wrapping creates a shallower break angle over the bridge saddle, since the strings pass from the top of the bridge instead of halfway through it, and many players report that their strings feel looser and slinkier as a result.

This is a mis-analysis. The reason why they feel softer is that they *are* softer because the total string length tuner to ballpoint is longer. That is what determines how much resistance they give when bending, or even when just fretting them.

They would still feel softer is you compared two identical break angles with top and bottom mount (with different tailpiece heights to compensate).
 
This is a mis-analysis. The reason why they feel softer is that they *are* softer because the total string length tuner to ballpoint is longer. That is what determines how much resistance they give when bending, or even when just fretting them.

They would still feel softer is you compared two identical break angles with top and bottom mount (with different tailpiece heights to compensate).

You think that really matters?

I'm not 100% sure.

How much influence does the length of string outside the points of vibration really have on feel or tone?

Especially in the case of a top-wrapped tailpiece.. most of that extra string length is wrapped tight around the bridge. That's like saying the amount of string wrapped around the post of a tuner affects feel.

I'm not calling you out or anything. It just doesn't seem logical to me.
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

You think that really matters?

I'm not 100% sure.

How much influence does the length of string outside the points of vibration really have on feel or tone?

A lot. The amount of force (in Newton) needed to move a string by a certain distance (say the action distance fr fretting) depends on the total stretchable length - including what is outside the scale. That means the distance between nut and tuner is added, as is the distance from saddle to anchor point (very high friction somewhere will make it count less of course).

This is most obvious when comparing the high E string on Explorers and Les Pauls. Same scale length but where the Explorer has the long headstock (high strings) the moving becomes easier. And I mean easily measurable. I posted a thread with the results years ago, apart from this being basic physics.

ETA:
https://forum.seymourduncan.com/showthread.php?t=131040
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

I top wrap, everyone should...............j/k

I top wrap my LP though
 
A lot. The amount of force (in Newton) needed to move a string by a certain distance (say the action distance fr fretting) depends on the total stretchable length - including what is outside the scale. That means the distance between nut and tuner is added, as is the distance from saddle to anchor point (very high friction somewhere will make it count less of course).

This is most obvious when comparing the high E string on Explorers and Les Pauls. Same scale length but where the Explorer has the long headstock (high strings) the moving becomes easier. And I mean easily measurable. I posted a thread with the results years ago, apart from this being basic physics.

ETA:
https://forum.seymourduncan.com/showthread.php?t=131040

Okay, I can get with that.

But I still don't think a top wrap vs. Not top-wrapped is really adding a lot of stretchable length. Maybe half an inch?
 
Re: Blog: Top Wrapping a TOM Tailpiece

Okay, I can get with that.

But I still don't think a top wrap vs. Not top-wrapped is really adding a lot of stretchable length. Maybe half an inch?

Guitar players are very sensitive to these things. The scale length difference between Fender and Gibson doesn't look very impressive to non-guitarists either, but guitarists feel a major difference.

But as I said two posts ago, it would be easy to isolate both factors in a three-step test to find out. Only problem is you can't record this.
 
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