Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

I won't buy guitar made basswood or poplar, simply because it's so soft. I sure would end up breaking it somehow.

my basswood-body ibanez seems more stable than my all-maple neck-though Carvin.
 
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Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

my basswood-body ibanez seems more table than my all-maple neck-though Carvin.

Are you talking about "stable" as in needs less truss adjusting with humidity/temp changes?

I find quality bolt-on necks tend to need less seasonal adjustment than neck-thru,,,,,,,,but that's (guitars I've owned) a very small sample group.
Also your Ibby is probably a laminate neck and the Carvin a 1pc (?)
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

Are you talking about "stable" as in needs less truss adjusting with humidity/temp changes?

I find quality bolt-on necks tend to need less seasonal adjustment than neck-thru,,,,,,,,but that's (guitars I've owned) a very small sample group.
Also your Ibby is probably a laminate neck and the Carvin a 1pc (?)

That's my experience as well. But when I said stable I meant regarding tremolo studs inserts stability, I meant stable as a wood not as a guitar. Truss rods adjustments IMO has to do more with the necks than the bodies. The Carvin most probably is 1pc neck, and the Ibb 5-pc neck. But again I was talking about the bodies.
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

I won't buy guitar made basswood or poplar, simply because it's so soft. I sure would end up breaking it somehow.

That's a legitimate grievance about specific wood. I once met a guy who had a guitar made of Brazilian Kingwood, not because of the sound it imparts, but because it is among the hardest woods out there. I'd take a guitar with strong wood that sounds "decent" over a guitar with wood of mythical quality that would end up with a broken neck if you so much as looked at it wrong.

Most of the 80's MIJ imports were Basswood and Poplar...some of the Fender offerings were as well. I've never seen nor heard of a Basswood or Poplar neck...so not sure what "mythical quality wood" you are talking about that the neck breaks so easily...majority of necks are Maple and Mahogany.

I've had several Basswood and Poplar guitars, no problem whatsoever with them being "soft". The MIM Fender Strat that was Poplar actually survived an incredibly botched relic job (in all fairness, might have been the super thick finish) before I traded for it...solid guitar with no issues.

The only issue I've ever had with a neck was a Jackson Soloist (neck-thru) where a portly music pastor accidentally slammed into it and broke the neck...but that is not the wood's fault, they were not designed to hold up the weight of a bumbling human.

For tonewood it is very simple...if you can tell a difference then good for you. If not then good for you too! FWIW, I believe all components affect the overall tone--including tonewood. I don't go into percentages; rather, I go with the wood I want in my guitar for a certain tone and fix any tonal issues with pickups, magnets, pole pieces and other mods to get the tone the way I want it.
 
Ask a Woodchuck

Ask a Woodchuck

Hey, Mr. Woodchuck ... what kind of wood would a Woodchuck chuck if a Woodchuck could chuck wood?
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

The poplar Music Man I have iisn't very soft. It also has a ton of mids...so much so that I have an almost identical Music Man made of alder, and the Custom Custom in the alder one still has less mids than the Custom 5 in the poplar one.
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

Most of the 80's MIJ imports were Basswood and Poplar...some of the Fender offerings were as well. I've never seen nor heard of a Basswood or Poplar neck...so not sure what "mythical quality wood" you are talking about that the neck breaks so easily...majority of necks are Maple and Mahogany.

I've had several Basswood and Poplar guitars, no problem whatsoever with them being "soft". The MIM Fender Strat that was Poplar actually survived an incredibly botched relic job (in all fairness, might have been the super thick finish) before I traded for it...solid guitar with no issues.

I already have enough rounded screwholes and cracks in finish in my alder strat. If it was made from basswood, parts might literally fall off...
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

I already have enough rounded screwholes and cracks in finish in my alder strat. If it was made from basswood, parts might literally fall off...

Well there are tons of Basswood imports from the 80s that have been modded in just about every way possible and still are alive and well.

It's amazing how long things last when you take care of it...going slow and easy with the correct tool will not make Basswood guitars fall apart (there are even some old Pine guitars that have lasted the test of time.)
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

Well there are tons of Basswood imports from the 80s that have been modded in just about every way possible and still are alive and well.

It's amazing how long things last when you take care of it...going slow and easy with the correct tool will not make Basswood guitars fall apart (there are even some old Pine guitars that have lasted the test of time.)

I'm sure. I just prefer my guitar to withstand to be used like a tool it is :D

Actually well dried pine is more rigid than soft hardwoods.
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

I'm sure. I just prefer my guitar to withstand to be used like a tool it is :D

Any examples of a gigged Basswood guitar not withstanding what it was designed to do? I've seen, played, and owned many Basswood guitars from the 80s and 90s that have held up very well–none of them were falling apart, none of them had the screw holes stripped (only guitar that I personally had that problem with was a Mahogany body...)

Actually well dried pine is more rigid than soft hardwoods.

Leo Fender switched to Swamp Ash and Alder because pine was too soft and easily dented. Just saying ;)
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

I think the reason for using basswood (or not using basswood) is the mids. Basswood has tons of mids. Strictly 80s stuff!
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

I really don't know what I believe about the tonewood debate.

I do know that electric guitars that sound bright, resonate well, and are acoustically loud generally sound better than dull, "thunky" sounding electrics. Good pickups enhance those qualities.

On the other hand, I couldn't tell you what woods a guitar is made of in a blind test. I can usually tell you what model type a guitar is from a blind test, however (Strat, Tele, Paul, Ric, etc.) I find the construction type, and electronics, are the greatest distinguishing factors in electric guitars. In my humble opinion, of course.

I really don't think it matters that much. What matters is finding one that sounds good, to you. And the only way to know that is to put your hands on it.

Sent from my KFGIWI using Tapatalk
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

If you don't know what to think, and that bothers you, do more research. I always go with personal experience rather than some guys on the internet.
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

I always think the same thing, especially after re-reading my own posts.
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

This was a very fun podcast I did recently where the subject comes up a few different ways.

http://www.ampsandaxescast.com/episodes/2017/5/31/amps-axes-181-frank-falbo-from-falbo-guitars

Early on at about 8:30 into this podcast Mick brings it up, and I say a little but around 10 minutes in I somehow was able to condense my explanation down to just a couple of sentences. Then later on we come back around to fretboard materials and such, if any of you have time to listen to the whole thing.
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

Any examples of a gigged Basswood guitar not withstanding what it was designed to do? I've seen, played, and owned many Basswood guitars from the 80s and 90s that have held up very well–none of them were falling apart, none of them had the screw holes stripped (only guitar that I personally had that problem with was a Mahogany body...)



Leo Fender switched to Swamp Ash and Alder because pine was too soft and easily dented. Just saying ;)

I think you're taking my posts way too seriously :D

Just saying...;)

EDIT: Pine definitely is soft young. But after 10 years, I'm sure it'll be more rigid than basswood. I'm not 100% sure about alder though.

Softwoods are different than hardwoods in more ways than just in "softness".
 
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Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

Maybe. The tonewoods may have some effect, but I believe in the grand scheme, maybe 10%. The position of the PUPS up and down the neck make a huge difference. Look at your neck pup vs the bridge for example. The string vibration is MUCH wider at the neck, thats why they have less output. Then the height of the pup is another factor. The animal glue and all that to me is pure BS. Sustain? How many pedals cant give you infinite sustain. And the biggest is the AMP. The speaker that moves the air so you hear it. WAY more important than tonewood, on an electric
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

I hear it as a lot more than 10%, but I (or anyone else) probably can't quantify an exact number. With enough distortion and compression, the difference starts to evaporate. Play clean for a year, and then start experimenting with woods for the neck and body. It is a shocking difference.
 
Re: Check out this "tonewood" statement . . .

I think you're taking my posts way too seriously :D

Just saying...;)

I thought forums were for discussions, you made a statement about Pine that contradicted Leo Fender's well documented reasoning for switching from Pine to Swamp Ash–stating said fact is taking things too seriously? :scratchch

EDIT: Pine definitely is soft young. But after 10 years, I'm sure it'll be more rigid than basswood. I'm not 100% sure about alder though.

Softwoods are different than hardwoods in more ways than just in "softness".

Never played an 80's Basswood Charvel/Jackson and Ibanez that were pliable..."more rigid"? I don't have old Pine guitars to compare to and not sure how one would even determine this. The Basswood Strats I've built were not pliable either–they sanded very easily but no issues with assembly.

Use whatever wood you want on your guitars and you are definitely entitled to your opinion on certain woods...I'm entitled to mine too.
 
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