Floyd Rose 1000 vs Original + Fat Brass Block

[dave74]

If you use your left hand to hold the bar in a deep dive-bombed position (like the bar almost touching the strings) you can safely adjust the posts without almost any resistance.
The knife edges sit in the post's <. By holding the bar in a deep dived position while turning the posts you are not dulling the edges, and essentially it would sharpen the knife edges, although I certainly would not do it for that purpose. Try it and you'll feel how much less "traction" there is.

 

[nexion218]

That said, I got away with this for years with Ibanez Edge trems.

Which brings me to my #1 pet peeve about Floyds. The Floyd route, if it was just a bit larger, you could detach the springs and lift it out of the body like you can with Ibanez. No, with a Floyd you have to unclamp the nut and let out some slack.

But I still choose floyd over Ibanez because parts availability, cost, and I prefer the screw in bar.

I think that depends on manufacturer... I have 4 Jacksons and an LTD with Floyd and can take out all of them just by detaching the springs. Usually the higher end stuff has tighter routing, but none so tight that I can't remove the bridge. Sometimes I don't buckle it forward, but try turning it sideways around the bar side post. That way I can lift the other end above the post and then it's smooth sailing. The most finnicky is the LTD b/c I have a custom machined huge block in it. And I mean HUGE. I measure what's biggest that could be fitted and had it made.

 

[Obsessive Compulsive]

Yup, adjusting action under tension is a death sentence to any Floyd unit.

Maybe based on mathematical calculation on paper it is valid, but I have done it since I first used a Floyd (licensed) in the 90s and no problem. These days I do it all the time with Edge, OFR. Besides who in the right mind would loosen the strings before adjusting action, only to repeat the process until the target is met. I have enough headache adjusting truss rod on the heel so, no thanks.

 

[Mr. 80's]

On a floating Floyd it's super simple just to pull up on the bar and pop the springs out the back and it pops right out. Then reverse the process to pop it back in and you're in tune and ready to rock. No need to unlock the nut and or loosen strings. A decked one is a little tougher since you have to stretch and pull the springs. One of the things I love about Floyds is the fact you do not need to unstring them to do any work to a guitar.

 

[Obsessive Compulsive]

^Usually I accidentally chip the guitar's finish around the edge of the tremolo cavity with pliers when putting the springs back on.

 

[Top-L]

Maybe based on mathematical calculation on paper it is valid, but I have done it since I first used a Floyd (licensed) in the 90s and no problem. These days I do it all the time with Edge, OFR. Besides who in the right mind would loosen the strings before adjusting action, only to repeat the process until the target is met. I have enough headache adjusting truss rod on the heel so, no thanks.

You dont have to loosen the strings. Just quick pop out the springs, adjust height, and put back the springs. That is one of the joys of a FR system, you can basically remove the bridge and reattach it, and it will still be in tune.

 

[Top-L]

^Usually I accidentally chip the guitar's finish around the edge of the tremolo cavity with pliers when putting the springs back on.

It always hurts a bit, but I use my fingers. I'm a troglodyte.

 

[Top-L]

I think that depends on manufacturer... I have 4 Jacksons and an LTD with Floyd and can take out all of them just by detaching the springs. Usually the higher end stuff has tighter routing, but none so tight that I can't remove the bridge. Sometimes I don't buckle it forward, but try turning it sideways around the bar side post. That way I can lift the other end above the post and then it's smooth sailing. The most finnicky is the LTD b/c I have a custom machined huge block in it. And I mean HUGE. I measure what's biggest that could be fitted and had it made.

None of my FR lift out like my Ibbys. It may also be related to bridge height/ trem angle, etc.

 

[Demanic]

Cast iron. After the first 30 minutes the heartiest of shredders would pine for a Norlin Les Paul.

Are the majority of guitarists really that frail?

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[Demanic]

You got right ahead and try it, and tell us how well it works.

I'd be more than happy to if I could find one that would fit my licensed Jackson copy.

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[dave74]

None of my FR lift out like my Ibbys. It may also be related to bridge height/ trem angle, etc.

Yeah it's a little bit of all those and of course the specific routing, plus it depends largely on how tight the strings are, as in tuning and gauges/tension.
I've had some cases where the OFR can lift out without unlocking the nut, but mostly not. The edge designs/routing has not been a problem.

Even when unlocking the nut and loosening the strings a bit, it's still a time saver.
If I'm wanting to clean and/or oil the board then change strings I still use the "trick" to do the baord, and then pop the bridge back on, retune approx., and then proceed with the string change one at a time like always.

 

[BeyondAntares]

I have a Floyd 1000 in a Flying V and I find it really stiff and sub par quality. I might consider an origial floyd with the brass block. Where do you all get aftermarket bridges from?

 

[AdrianSD]

I have a Floyd 1000 in a Flying V and I find it really stiff and sub par quality. I might consider an origial floyd with the brass block. Where do you all get aftermarket bridges from?

What exactly don't you like about the 1000 series? I find the 1000 fine tuners a bit agricultural compared to the Gotoh 1996T and the saddles aren't as smooth as the Gotoh or the OFR ones. But with a push in tremolo bar and all else equal, the 1000 series is pretty much a keeper. If you want to swap out the trem completely you might as well go for the Gotoh 1996T, just better industrial design and engineering.

 

[nexion218]

Also try playing around with the number and position of springs, that can alter how the whole unit feels!

 

[LLL]

I have a Floyd 1000 in a Flying V and I find it really stiff and sub par quality. I might consider an origial floyd with the brass block. Where do you all get aftermarket bridges from?

floydrose.com

 

[Top-L]

What exactly don't you like about the 1000 series? I find the 1000 fine tuners a bit agricultural compared to the Gotoh 1996T and the saddles aren't as smooth as the Gotoh or the OFR ones. But with a push in tremolo bar and all else equal, the 1000 series is pretty much a keeper. If you want to swap out the trem completely you might as well go for the Gotoh 1996T, just better industrial design and engineering.

Yes. Put some wax on the tuner threads and they smooth right out.

 

[Mr. 80's]

There should be no difference in feel between the 1000 series and the German OFR. The fine tuners also smooth out after being used a few times. Mine are smooth like butter. Plus the 1000's already have a brass block. If you want a fat block that's another story. I'm not a fan of the fat blocks myself just for the fact they make the travel more limited, so I stick with the standard blocks. The 1000's are a great trem right on par with the German ones IMHO and should last just as long as an OFR if taken care of properly. If people hate the 1000's so much I would be happy if someone donated me a black one for my Damien Special FR to get it off their hands.

 

[dave74]

I agree. With most guitars I'd rather have full travel on the trem and just use my amp's knobs to add a bit of lows and mids if needed.

 

[eclecticsynergy]

I'd still like to try a cast iron block. Try tapping on a good cast iron skillet and tell me I'm wrong.

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FWIW, cast iron has vibration-dampening properties due to its crystalline microstructure.
In engineering it is often used specifically for that purpose.
It can even be differentiated from other ferrous metals by vibration testing.
Probably not the best choice for a sustain block.

Full disclosure: Haven't researched it, and I'm no metallurgist - cast iron might only damp low frequency vibrations.

 

[soulforger]

I should mention also that performance-wise:

- staying in tune, dive-bombing, pulling up... both work equally well
- the fine tuners on the 1000 are not machined as good as the Original; gritty feeling when adjusting
- the fine tuners on the Original are smooth as butter

I also added a "drop in" arm replacement. Zero slop. none.

I did the push in arm kit on mine too (1000 on an SE CU24 Floyd), it baffles me why FR has not made this the stock configuration, $15 and no more annoying thumbwheel coming loose every 30 seconds, EVERY Floyd user should do this!
I have been thinking of trying the brass block though which is why I'm here