How do I repair this shoddy fretwork?

[Top-L]

Seymour Dunclings! (If anyone knows the answer, it is those smart guys in the SD pickup forum.)

This is a new MII Jackson superstrat that was blown out at half price. I am the (un)lucky recipient.

First things first, I had to press all the frets in to get the guitar playable. I don't think they are glued, which may be a blessing.

The main problem is that on the treble side there is a gap under some of the fret ends (enough for a string to snag). I'm not sure if it is because the fret was not radiused properly and its pulling up at the end? That was my original thought, but now I'm wondering if the edge of the board was sanded/filed before the frets were installed, which means the problem may be with the wood!

Problem two is that the ends of the frets are rough. If I use a sanding block along the edge to get all the frets together, it might eat into the corner of the board and remove finish, and that's not what I want.

How can I fix the gap under the frets and the rough ends? It might be that if I treat this like fret sprout and file the ends in the from the edge, that the string won't snag, although there will probably still be a gap.

And the fret ends? I'm thinking about protecting the edge of the board with tape and being VERY careful with a leveling beam to smooth all the edges.

Also, bonus points... Some of the frets are missing wood filler which is a cosmetic issue. If I pull a fret and reinstall wood filler to make the ends look better, will this blend well with the clear finish? or will I wish I hadn't bothered?




z

 

[ICTGoober]

Hold the fret end down and wick some thin CA into it. After everything cures, come back and check the lengthwise (I'd use a bevel file), and then use a 3 cornered filed to radius the fret end. Polish afterwards with 2000 grit or a fret eraser.

 

[ehdwuld]

worse case

pull all the frets
sand finish off the entire neck
reinstall correctly the frets with proper radius
finish with tung oil or danish oil or gunstock oil or whatever you want

worst case

what Goob said works better

 

[Top-L]

Hold the fret end down and wick some thin CA into it.

Do you think pressure and glue will hold it down enough? Is fretwire pretty maeleable, so that if I press it with some force it will conform/bend as needed?

 

[ICTGoober]

I hold the fret end down with a fretting hammer. The face of the hammer is copper and CA won't stick it. It will bend, no worries.

 

[Top-L]

I hold the fret end down with a fretting hammer. The face of the hammer is copper and CA won't stick it. It will bend, no worries.

I was thinking I need a fret press to hold it in place while the glue dries. Is there a clever way to do this with normal tools?

 

[Lucius Paisley]

I was thinking I need a fret press to hold it in place while the glue dries. Is there a clever way to do this with normal tools?

Do it with whoever you like.

 

[ICTGoober]

I was thinking I need a fret press to hold it in place while the glue dries. Is there a clever way to do this with normal tools?

You keep thinking this is hard - it's not. I've used my thumbnail to hold down the fret. Don't overdo the CA glue. You don't want to glue your finger or the tool down, and too much CA takes too long to cure. Like the old commercial said, "A little dab will do you".

 

[Top-L]

You keep thinking this is hard - it's not. I've used my thumbnail to hold down the fret. Don't overdo the CA glue. You don't want to glue your finger or the tool down, and too much CA takes too long to cure. Like the old commercial said, "A little dab will do you".

I can't budge it with my thumb. It may be the slot is not deep enough. Or it could be the wood is not flat and that is why there is a gap.

 

[ICTGoober]

OH... you're talking about that little open gap of the fret slot? The slot was cut a little too deep, which is no big deal. Some builders use filler to make it look nice. As for the fret sprout where the ends are sticking out and feeling sharp? Use a fret bevel file to smooth them off. A light tough is recommended.

You could still touch the fret end with a bit of CA if you want to be sure. Call it insurance.

 

[Top-L]

OH... you're talking about that little open gap of the fret slot? The slot was cut a little too deep, which is no big deal. Some builders use filler to make it look nice. As for the fret sprout where the ends are sticking out and feeling sharp? Use a fret bevel file to smooth them off. A light tough is recommended.

You could still touch the fret end with a bit of CA if you want to be sure. Call it insurance.

I'm talking about how the fret end is raised from the board and the string catches under the edge. The fret end is raised at least .009. They are not sticking over the edge. The problem afaict is that the fret is not fully seated at the end.

I can't push the fret deeper, so I'm wondering if the fret tang is bottomed out.

 

[larryguitar]

I have to be honest; I'd pull the frets, reradius the board and put new frets in correctly. A bit more work, but you know it will give a good result. If you have the tools, it only costs $15 for the fretwire.

I just think sometimes it's better to start completely over and have control over all the variables, rather than chase a bunch of separate issues, but that's just me.


Larry

 

[Top-L]

I have to be honest; I'd pull the frets, reradius the board and put new frets in correctly. A bit more work, but you know it will give a good result. If you have the tools, it only costs $15 for the fretwire.

I just think sometimes it's better to start completely over and have control over all the variables, rather than chase a bunch of separate issues, but that's just me.


Larry

I may try a warranty return or replacement. There are other problems that need fix.

Even though its a cheap guitar, this shouldnt be my problem. I've had other cheap guitars without this problem. Or maybe FMIC will pay for the repair?

 

[ICTGoober]

At this point, I'd have to see the instrument before commenting further.

If you got it cheap, part it out on Squeebay or Treeverb to make your money back. Heck, you might make a profit. There are plenty more good players on the market.

 

[Top-L]

At this point, I'd have to see the instrument before commenting further.

If you got it cheap, part it out on Squeebay or Treeverb to make your money back. Heck, you might make a profit. There are plenty more good players on the market.

It turns out that the neck joint isnt solid. Neck shifts because alignment is compromised and they jammed it to the side before tightening, but the body or the screws seems to want to push it back the wrong direction. Neck probably needs plug and drill.

There were also trem clearance issues that I had to fix. Too much to describe what was wrong, but it was constructed wrong, neck pocket too deep or neck blank too thin. More than a typical shim would handle.

I've never seen such a shit guitar honestly.

 

[ehdwuld]

Cut bait

Buy a cheap Fesley

Don't look back

You can find cheap players all over

I agree with Goob

 

[Mincer]

Yeah, I gotta agree. If you think it is crap and you are annoyed at how bad it is, you aren't going to enjoy playing it. But someone will. Sell it and get something you dig. Life is too short to put up with shoddy tools.

 

[Top-L]

Yeah, I gotta agree. If you think it is crap and you are annoyed at how bad it is, you aren't going to enjoy playing it. But someone will. Sell it and get something you dig. Life is too short to put up with shoddy tools.

"I can fix her."

At least that is what I thought.. But it has a shifting neck alignment problem.

I would probably get $100 for it used. And it is worth that much to keep it as a project guitar.

"I can fix her. But not today."

 

[Mincer]

Well, it does depend on if you want to. I understand keeping it to learn how to do stuff. You probably can't make it much worse, right?

 

[magillver]

Silly question, but have you tried simply tapping the fret and down with a small hammer and a block of wood to protect the fret? Always try the easy stuff first, sometimes you get lucky...