Incoming NGD x2
- Thread starter ehdwuld
- Start date
Thumpalumpacus
Member
I've spent a little time upgrading a Chinese Squier, roller nut, roller trees, loaded pickguard with nondescript Alnico V pickups, haven't restrung it yet. Most time was taken after knocking out the nut and filing the slot to fit the new nut, and pushing it a little forward to avoid screwing up the intonation much. It's an easy error to commit.
Last edited:
ehdwuld
A Ficus
I documented the break point of the original nut
36.4 mm from center of 1st fret
The error was in width of saw kerf
The gap in mine, though it looks bad from close up, is invisible from a distance
And so close to the nut as to be undetected by the player
On my Squire, I plan to be more aware.
ehdwuld
A Ficus
Ok got the neck back on and nut shimmed
The roller nut is set up for a 9.5 radius
So the middle was cool straight up
High and Low E were on the fret
One thick shim and the High E cleared
But it took two thick on the Low E
Changed the Logo
I don't think it affects the resale value
You can see a stark difference in the tint
I prefer the natural color more than the bright yellow anyway
You can't see in the image how much was taken off
The shoulder on either side is still a bit chunky
But it feels great to me
Slim Modern D , I think
I removed all the tinted finish except the fretboard
If I ever change frets, I will sort that out then.
Now to the bridge
The roller nut is set up for a 9.5 radius
So the middle was cool straight up
High and Low E were on the fret
One thick shim and the High E cleared
But it took two thick on the Low E
Changed the Logo
I don't think it affects the resale value
You can see a stark difference in the tint
I prefer the natural color more than the bright yellow anyway
You can't see in the image how much was taken off
The shoulder on either side is still a bit chunky
But it feels great to me
Slim Modern D , I think
I removed all the tinted finish except the fretboard
If I ever change frets, I will sort that out then.
Now to the bridge
ehdwuld
A Ficus
On another note about the LSR nut
You know when you are tuning your strings and you always drop the pitch below the note and crank up into pitch...
Ain't gotta do that no more!!
And I left off the High E string tree
The strings sit fairly deep into the nut
I don't think it needs one
You know when you are tuning your strings and you always drop the pitch below the note and crank up into pitch...
Ain't gotta do that no more!!
And I left off the High E string tree
The strings sit fairly deep into the nut
I don't think it needs one
ehdwuld
A Ficus
My fret board is a 12
So I may not notice any sag
ehdwuld
A Ficus
Ok bridge
Had to whittle out a bit for the bigger brass block
Opened the upper side and removed the shelf formed when they glued on the top
And hogged out a cavity for the block to swing into
You can see the shelf in the image above
Not much off about 1/4 inch or 6 mm
Enough to free the block a bit
I have enough room for the full tilt o the trem
Once the black spray paint dries ( cover the wound) i will re assemble with new strings and post a clip
Had to whittle out a bit for the bigger brass block
Opened the upper side and removed the shelf formed when they glued on the top
And hogged out a cavity for the block to swing into
You can see the shelf in the image above
Not much off about 1/4 inch or 6 mm
Enough to free the block a bit
I have enough room for the full tilt o the trem
Once the black spray paint dries ( cover the wound) i will re assemble with new strings and post a clip
ehdwuld
A Ficus
Alright. That bridge was a bit complicated
Remember to not lock the saddles until after you set the intonation
The lock wont let the saddle go forward
Mine is the 54mm version
The 52.5 mm version
is on sale on Amazon right now for $47
the locking saddles themselves are $150-200 on Ebay
If yu like the idea of locking saddles on a strat
Grab that one and just steal the saddles off for under $50
I think it may be an answer locking for a question
I tried it for about an hour and put it in the return mail
..
Already in the box
Went back to the original trem
When I get my refund
I may just get a Wilkinson
I do like the push in arm
Remember to not lock the saddles until after you set the intonation
The lock wont let the saddle go forward
Mine is the 54mm version
The 52.5 mm version
is on sale on Amazon right now for $47
the locking saddles themselves are $150-200 on Ebay
If yu like the idea of locking saddles on a strat
Grab that one and just steal the saddles off for under $50
I think it may be an answer locking for a question
I tried it for about an hour and put it in the return mail
..
Already in the box
Went back to the original trem
When I get my refund
I may just get a Wilkinson
I do like the push in arm
Wilkinsons are fantastic. I also really like the Vega Trem, though that is probably more expensive. As far as the sag on the nut, it was on a compound radius neck, 12-16", and it wasn't there on my other identical neck. I don't know what the deal was, but without the shim on the problem one, the middle strings buzzed open, but were fine with a shim underneath the middle of the nut. Maybe it was a fret issue, but the shim worked so it doesn't matter.
Artie
Peaveyologist
That's badass. Is that a decal? How did you do that?
ehdwuld
A Ficus
Clear packing tape
Laser printer your logo on plain copy paper not inkjet... that's a different technique
Once printed press clear packing tape over the image on paper
Rub it in well on a hard surface with the hard plastic handle of something like the scissors you're about to use next
Cut out the logo and check for size and location
Warm cup of water to melt the paper off the backing , pace cut logo in the water
It will take about 2 - 3 minutes for the paper to soften and gently rub off
Hold it under the water while rubbing and check to mack sure you get all of it off before continuing
When ready to place it wet the surface you will apply to using the cup of warm water from the last step , you don't need much
Lay the logo sticky side down on the prepared dampened surface
It will slid around easily into position
Once in position, press with a dry towel Alto remove water and dry surface
Let it air for about an hour then spray or rub your clear finish over top
The tape is a bit thick so it may take several coats to level
Be patient
ehdwuld
A Ficus
Oddly enough the exact same bridge i paid $80 for is on sale for $37 right now
Guyker 54mm bridge with locking saddles in chrome
Guyker 54mm bridge with locking saddles in chrome
ehdwuld
A Ficus
Ok let me clarify
I watched a bunch of videos about sanding down the neck and reshaping it
They all seemed to think it was about 15 minutes to 1 hour process
This was not my experience at all
It took almost an hour just to get through the poly, it was very thick
Then the hard maple
was incredibly hard to sand even with 60 grit and power tools
I ended up using a coarse rasp to saw it down, then sand paper to get the grooves out.
It took about 3 hours all together, over 2 days
Very labor intensive
I watched a bunch of videos about sanding down the neck and reshaping it
They all seemed to think it was about 15 minutes to 1 hour process
This was not my experience at all
It took almost an hour just to get through the poly, it was very thick
Then the hard maple
was incredibly hard to sand even with 60 grit and power toolsI ended up using a coarse rasp to saw it down, then sand paper to get the grooves out.
It took about 3 hours all together, over 2 days
Very labor intensive
