Incoming NGD x2

Whittled it down to 21.5 mm
Removed all the poly but the fretboard
If i ever replace frets, I will do that then

First coat of tung oil is drying
 
So took the neck off today
Cut in an LSR nut
Made the cut a bit too wide
And just a bit too deep
Lessons learned

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Now to sand down the back of that neck.....

I've spent a little time upgrading a Chinese Squier, roller nut, roller trees, loaded pickguard with nondescript Alnico V pickups, haven't restrung it yet. Most time was taken after knocking out the nut and filing the slot to fit the new nut, and pushing it a little forward to avoid screwing up the intonation much. It's an easy error to commit.
 
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I've spent a little time upgrading a Chinese Squier, roller nut, roller trees, loaded pickguard with nondescript Alnico V pickups, haven't restrung it yet. Most time was taken after knocking out the nut and filing the slot to fit the new nut, and pushing it a little forward to avoid screwing up the intonation much. It's an easy error to commit.
I documented the break point of the original nut
36.4 mm from center of 1st fret
The error was in width of saw kerf

The gap in mine, though it looks bad from close up, is invisible from a distance
And so close to the nut as to be undetected by the player

On my Squire, I plan to be more aware.
 
Ok got the neck back on and nut shimmed
The roller nut is set up for a 9.5 radius
So the middle was cool straight up
High and Low E were on the fret
One thick shim and the High E cleared
But it took two thick on the Low E

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Changed the Logo
I don't think it affects the resale value
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You can see a stark difference in the tint
I prefer the natural color more than the bright yellow anyway

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You can't see in the image how much was taken off
The shoulder on either side is still a bit chunky
But it feels great to me
Slim Modern D , I think


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I removed all the tinted finish except the fretboard

If I ever change frets, I will sort that out then.


Now to the bridge

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On another note about the LSR nut

You know when you are tuning your strings and you always drop the pitch below the note and crank up into pitch...

Ain't gotta do that no more!!

And I left off the High E string tree
The strings sit fairly deep into the nut

I don't think it needs one
 
It took me quite a bit trial and error to figure out the shims...first, I didn't realize they were different sizes. Once I figured that out, I had to try different combinations to find the right ones.
 
I noticed there were three thick ones and three thinner ones
And if placed outside the screws they had a much greater impact on thw height

The nut is stiff enough to not need much in the center
 
Yeah, they are supposed to go on the outside of the screws. But on one, there was a weird 'sag' in the middle of the nut- I threw a shim there and it solved that issue.
 
Ok bridge

Had to whittle out a bit for the bigger brass block

Opened the upper side and removed the shelf formed when they glued on the top
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And hogged out a cavity for the block to swing into
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You can see the shelf in the image above
Not much off about 1/4 inch or 6 mm
Enough to free the block a bit

I have enough room for the full tilt o the trem

Once the black spray paint dries ( cover the wound) i will re assemble with new strings and post a clip
 
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