Megaswitch M + Liberator

I searched for this but couldn't find the exact diagram. I just got a Schaller Megaswitch M and I’m fully rewiring the guitar in question with the "ibanez HH wiring" (a.k.a. HH10: 1 full bridge, 2 both split, 3 both full, 4 neck parallel, 5 neck full). Only knob will be a Liberator universal vol, no tone.

Question: is it possible to, in the 2nd position, have the slug coil in the bridge + screw coil in the neck for hum cancelling? Or would that mess with other positions?

Last time I just took the guitar to the tech because it also needed fret work, but the soldering job was so expensive I just bought a 70W soldering iron for future endeavours. I have some experience with soldering, but it's not yet something I practice frequently (I intend to), so if one of the kind souls here could draw a full diagram to make sure I don't do something dumb, I'd be deeply grateful.

Screenshot 2026-04-07 at 07.40.15.webp
 
Are these Duncan pups? Just asking because those are the color codes I use for my drawings. If they're something else, let us know. I'll try to translate the colors.

Also, 70W is pretty hot for guitar wiring, unless it's temp controllable. 35W is more ideal. If you use the 70W, be sure to get on and off a connection pretty fast so that you don't toast anything. Those solder pads on the M-switch will float free if you hit them too long.

P.S. What you're asking is totally do-able. Drawing it up now, with Duncan colors.
 
Are these Duncan pups? Just asking because those are the color codes I use for my drawings. If they're something else, let us know. I'll try to translate the colors.

Also, 70W is pretty hot for guitar wiring, unless it's temp controllable. 35W is more ideal. If you use the 70W, be sure to get on and off a connection pretty fast so that you don't toast anything. Those solder pads on the M-switch will float free if you hit them too long.

P.S. What you're asking is totally do-able. Drawing it up now, with Duncan colors.
Yes, all my pickups are Duncan. But the main thing is Liberator as a single volume connecting into the Megaswitch. If I swap pickups, I'll do it solderless via the pot. Currently it's a 3-way with 2 vols including a push/pull, but the push/pull I used is low-friction and so the volume keeps going down by accident. Immediate regret after getting it back from the shop. I got a furniture plug to cover the hole and shoved the whole pot into the cavity. The MegaS will give me the tone variety without the need for a second volume knob.

I got a 70W iron because every time I used a 35W one I got cold solders. That's actually the main reason why I stopped doing my own wirings, too frustrating. Could be technique – or lack thereof, I’m self-taught.

Thanks for the help. I wish the SD diagrams were more complete. The slug-bridge/screw-neck won't interfere with the other configurations, right?
 
Ok. No prob. I'm doing the diagram now. But either way, you'll need to solder several jumpers, and Liberator wires to the Megaswitch. After that, you'll be able to swap pups with a screwdriver.

I just need to finish transposing the wires from my usual diagram to the Liberator. Should be before the day is over. I just want to make sure it's all correct.
 
Would it be possible for you to take a photo of the control cavity of your guitar. It's not critical, but it helps me to visualize the best way to do this.
 
Would it be possible for you to take a photo of the control cavity of your guitar. It's not critical, but it helps me to visualize the best way to do this.
Looking at it more closely, I'm pretty sure my tech is a f' moron. Why isn't the jack connected directly to the Lib screw terminals?
Btw, the Megaswitch is on route, it just cleared customs. This is what the cavity looks like now, but only the Liberator will remain.
IMG_4444.webp
 
Cool. Post a pic off the Megaswitch when you get it. There are variations, and I want to make sure we're on the same page.

Or, instead of posting a pic, just confirm that it looks like this, front and rear:
 

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