Megaswitch M + Liberator

[Gabrielinconfident]

I searched for this but couldn't find the exact diagram. I just got a Schaller Megaswitch M and I’m fully rewiring the guitar in question with the "ibanez HH wiring" (a.k.a. HH10: 1 full bridge, 2 both split, 3 both full, 4 neck parallel, 5 neck full). Only knob will be a Liberator universal vol, no tone.

Question: is it possible to, in the 2nd position, have the slug coil in the bridge + screw coil in the neck for hum cancelling? Or would that mess with other positions?

Last time I just took the guitar to the tech because it also needed fret work, but the soldering job was so expensive I just bought a 70W soldering iron for future endeavours. I have some experience with soldering, but it's not yet something I practice frequently (I intend to), so if one of the kind souls here could draw a full diagram to make sure I don't do something dumb, I'd be deeply grateful.

 

[Artie]

Are these Duncan pups? Just asking because those are the color codes I use for my drawings. If they're something else, let us know. I'll try to translate the colors.

Also, 70W is pretty hot for guitar wiring, unless it's temp controllable. 35W is more ideal. If you use the 70W, be sure to get on and off a connection pretty fast so that you don't toast anything. Those solder pads on the M-switch will float free if you hit them too long.

P.S. What you're asking is totally do-able. Drawing it up now, with Duncan colors.

 

[Gabrielinconfident]

Are these Duncan pups? Just asking because those are the color codes I use for my drawings. If they're something else, let us know. I'll try to translate the colors.

Also, 70W is pretty hot for guitar wiring, unless it's temp controllable. 35W is more ideal. If you use the 70W, be sure to get on and off a connection pretty fast so that you don't toast anything. Those solder pads on the M-switch will float free if you hit them too long.

P.S. What you're asking is totally do-able. Drawing it up now, with Duncan colors.

Yes, all my pickups are Duncan. But the main thing is Liberator as a single volume connecting into the Megaswitch. If I swap pickups, I'll do it solderless via the pot. Currently it's a 3-way with 2 vols including a push/pull, but the push/pull I used is low-friction and so the volume keeps going down by accident. Immediate regret after getting it back from the shop. I got a furniture plug to cover the hole and shoved the whole pot into the cavity. The MegaS will give me the tone variety without the need for a second volume knob.

I got a 70W iron because every time I used a 35W one I got cold solders. That's actually the main reason why I stopped doing my own wirings, too frustrating. Could be technique – or lack thereof, I’m self-taught.

Thanks for the help. I wish the SD diagrams were more complete. The slug-bridge/screw-neck won't interfere with the other configurations, right?

 

[Artie]

Ok. No prob. I'm doing the diagram now. But either way, you'll need to solder several jumpers, and Liberator wires to the Megaswitch. After that, you'll be able to swap pups with a screwdriver.

I just need to finish transposing the wires from my usual diagram to the Liberator. Should be before the day is over. I just want to make sure it's all correct.

 

[Artie]

Would it be possible for you to take a photo of the control cavity of your guitar. It's not critical, but it helps me to visualize the best way to do this.

 

[Gabrielinconfident]

Would it be possible for you to take a photo of the control cavity of your guitar. It's not critical, but it helps me to visualize the best way to do this.

Looking at it more closely, I'm pretty sure my tech is a f' moron. Why isn't the jack connected directly to the Lib screw terminals?
Btw, the Megaswitch is on route, it just cleared customs. This is what the cavity looks like now, but only the Liberator will remain.

 

[Artie]

Thanks. That's definitely the oddest installation of a pot-push-pull I've ever seen.

 

[Gabrielinconfident]

Thanks. That's definitely the oddest installation of a pot-push-pull I've ever seen.

Yeah like I said, I hid the pot so I would stop bumping on it and turning down the volume accidentally. That's why it's coming off.

 

[Artie]

Ok. I've got it drawn up. Just gotta translate it to the Liberator. Should have it tomorrow. Maybe later tonight.

 

[Gabrielinconfident]

Ok. I've got it drawn up. Just gotta translate it to the Liberator. Should have it tomorrow. Maybe later tonight.

No rush. The switch should arrive in the next couple of days, I'll probably get it done next week. Thanks for your help.

 

[Artie]

Cool. Post a pic off the Megaswitch when you get it. There are variations, and I want to make sure we're on the same page.

Or, instead of posting a pic, just confirm that it looks like this, front and rear:

 

[Gabrielinconfident]

Cool. Post a pic off the Megaswitch when you get it. There are variations, and I want to make sure we're on the same page.

Or, instead of posting a pic, just confirm that it looks like this, front and rear:

 

[Artie]

Cool. That looks like it. I'll get this finished up soon.

 

[Mincer]

I've used a Megaswitch (I think an E model) a few times, but I remember some talk here about them not being great for some things, but I haven't looked at that in awhile.

 

[Artie]

The good thing about the "M" version, is that it's just a regular Superswitch, once you map out the non-conventional terminal locations.

Like this:

 

[Gabrielinconfident]

I got everything out of the way to make it easier for the install.
Quick question: is the megaswitch in the correct position? I mean, should it be like this, or 180º? I can't find a single picture online of which direction is bridge vs. neck pickup.

 

[Artie]

Well, the beauty of the Liberator is that you can make about 95% of the connections with the Liberator and Megaswitch outside of the guitar, where it's easy to get to. Then, just drop the whole thing back into the guitar to make the final pickup screw-in connections.

I'll try to get that diagram to you before the day is over.

 

[Gabrielinconfident]

Well, the beauty of the Liberator is that you can make about 95% of the connections with the Liberator and Megaswitch outside of the guitar, where it's easy to get to. Then, just drop the whole thing back into the guitar to make the final pickup screw-in connections.

I'll try to get that diagram to you before the day is over.

Sure, but what I'm asking is whether the switch should have the connectors inward or outward. I don't know which side is bridge and which is neck. With a regular Alpha 3-way switch it doesn't matter, but I imagine that with the Megaswitch it does. Should I keep it like this, or should I turn it 180º?

 

[jeremy]

i believe it should be as you have it, artie can comfirm

 

[Artie]

Sure, but what I'm asking is whether the switch should have the connectors inward or outward. I don't know which side is bridge and which is neck. With a regular Alpha 3-way switch it doesn't matter, but I imagine that with the Megaswitch it does. Should I keep it like this, or should I turn it 180º?

Let me double check my diagram. I believe it's good as it is, but I'll check.

Do you have a meter? If you do, place the handle all the way back in the "bridge" position. Then verify that one of these connections is shorted. You only need to verify one pair. If its good, the other three will be also. Just do the one that's easiest to get to.

F to E, L to K, R to Q, or X to W.