Neck Opinions please

ehdwuld

ehdwuld

A Ficus
So I have looked at getting a new neck for my CAR Squire strat.
Nothing is really wrong with the current one just I would like a maple board.
Tilt back headstock to eliminate string trees.
Stainless frets arent that much more

Warmoth will do compound radius and earvana nut

I want at least a tusq like nut

My question is really about the differences with earvana nut and say the LSR nut.

Both require special cuts that make it hard to go back to something else.

Has anyone had experience with either or both and could share their thoughts?

I was thinking Carvin for a long time but as the time comes near I really like the options for neck shape and radius Warmoth will do

Is the compound radius really that much better than a straight?

And finishes
Carvin does tung oiled finish
And Warmoth talks bad about that

I really can just slather on tung oil my self
I like an oiled neck myself

Any one have bad experiences with either company?

Do the necks come dressed and leveled. Or would that be something I would have to do?
I really would just like to unwrap it and bolt it on [emoji4]

What say ye

*(Sent from my durned phone!)*
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

Thanks Ralph
Could you be more specific

Not just post

Carvin Dude

*(Sent from my durned phone!)*
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

A few years back, Frank Falbo posted (and included supporting photographic evidence) about the tendency of some Warmoth fingerboard extensions to shrink downwards, effectively lowering the last fret or three. I have seen one example of this myself.

Given the price of both brands of replacement neck, would it not be cheaper to simply purchase another Squier guitar?
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

I too like Carvin
Their necks are thinner than the standard c shape.of Warmoth
And closer to.the wizard shape I like on my Ibanez
In fact.that is what I was going with

I don't know if Carvin does the compound radius or the LSR

I know they have a teflon nut and stainless frets
Tilt headstock

And should bolt right up to the body


*(Sent from my durned phone!)*
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

ehdwuld said:
Thanks Ralph
Could you be more specific

Not just post

Carvin Dude

*(Sent from my durned phone!)*
Click to expand...

Sorry i am semi retarded.

I will answer one of the questions as a sign of good faith. Compound radius is better but its not a deal breaker for me.

Its Raph too not Ralph haha.

This is ralph


 
Re: Neck Opinions please

Sorry Raph
I too only glance over posts my bad

Also on tung oil

I have a tung oiled mahogany dining room table.
And when I was living in Phoenix that table bucked up badly
But when I returned to Alabama
It went back to th way it was made

So maybe just oil isn't such a good thing
Or maybe I'll just have to use the truss rod when I travel

What do you think Raph I

*(Sent from my durned phone!)*
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

ehdwuld said:
Sorry Raph
I too only glance over posts my bad

Also on tung oil

I have a tung oiled mahogany dining room table.
And when I was living in Phoenix that table bucked up badly
But when I returned to Alabama
It went back to th way it was made

So maybe just oil isn't such a good thing
Or maybe I'll just have to use the truss rod when I travel

What do you think Raph I

*(Sent from my durned phone!)*
Click to expand...

I doubt the guitr will move and contract as much as that table did anyway. Tung oil or not it should be sweet.
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

I currently have 3 Warmoth guitars and 1 Warmoth bass so I have a bit of experience with them for sure. I also have another Warmoth guitar body in production and am trying to decide on what type of woods I want to order for the neck.

I do have an earvana nut on one of them. IMO it's nothing special. I much prefer the TUSQ XL.

Stainless steel frets are the way to go. I have SS frets on two of them.

All of them have the compound radius. Like Raph said, it's not a deal breaker if a neck doesn't have it but it is really nice. I have really grown to love the compound radius. Very comfortable to play and versatile for doing a full night's work at a gig. Just like Warmoth states, it's comfortable for chording and rhythm work and smooth for lead work on the upper frets.

As far as finish details are concerned, just like any guitar you would buy (MIA Strat, Gibson, Jackson USA, etc.) that is not a custom shop or master built guitar, you may need to bring the neck in for a fret level or polish. It's been my experience with my Warmoths that the need for this is minimal. They really do a good job. The fret dressing has never been a problem on any of my necks as the frets have been smooth along the sides. Over the years (8 to 10 years) some people say the SS frets are strong and sharp as the wood expands and contracts over time, so they get a fret dress when that happens but that is not Warmoth's fault at all. That just happens but it's a small price to pay for frets that will never wear out. Either the Carvin or Warmoth neck you are considering will have this potential issue so it's a draw. However, I feel like Warmoth puts a good effort towards quality with every item they produce. They stand behind their work and have good customer service.

Tung oil on maple: sure, a lot of people do it and there is nothing wrong with that. Warmoth has made a lot of necks over the years, all of their woods are treated with some kind of sealant but they still do not like to encourage people to do oil finishes on maple. So, if you are choosing to do a tung oil finish their 2 year warranty on the neck will be forfeited. Maple has a tendency to warp (think of the untreated maple 2'x4's you see at a hardware store that are warped) pretty easily so Warmoth is just doing what they need to do to protect themselves from returns/complaints. It's a smart business decision on their end so I cannot really fault them for that. I like the feel of a raw, unfinished neck myself so I do not blame you for wanting to do tung oil. I only play on unfinished Indian rosewood, Wenge, Bocote and Bubinga necks at the moment. I like how they feel and their tone is great. If you want a brighter toned unfinished neck that still has a warranty there are great options like padouk, canary, pau ferro and satine (bloodwood). Otherwise, going with quartersawn maple might be your best option if choosing to use tung oil to finish it.

As far as the Warmoth fallaway fretboard issue is concerned, I don't know about this. I have not noticed it myself. I imagine it could happen on any neck that has an extended fretboard. They are all made from wood. So it's not just Warmoth's wood that does this. I do not see how this is a Warmoth only issue.

I have played Carvin guitars as one of my former bandmates had a few of them. They're cool but even he eventually went the way of the Warmoth. We both felt we liked Warmoth more.
 
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Re: Neck Opinions please

Funkfingers said:
A few years back, Frank Falbo posted (and included supporting photographic evidence) about the tendency of some Warmoth fingerboard extensions to shrink downwards, effectively lowering the last fret or three. I have seen one example of this myself.

Given the price of both brands of replacement neck, would it not be cheaper to simply purchase another Squier guitar?
Click to expand...

well not really looking for a different guitar
the one in question is the Candy Apple one I got from Ascension a few years back
its the Squire Standard version with the two point trem and full sized body

I want to try out a custom neck
as the neck is the part you most interact with

as I said there is nothing wrong with the neck now

I have several strats, it may end up on another body all together

right now I'm just infatuated with the idea of a custom neck

Thanks Funk
as always I value your input

so does anyone have any experience with a LSR?

I looked at the builder as SnakeAces suggested
I think the Roasted Maple doesnt require a hard finish and is just a bit more
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

I recently got a Warmoth neck in roasted maple with a roasted maple fretboard. No finish needed and the feel is amazing. The fretwork was level out of the box and only needs a little polishing to get that extra smoothness from the stainless frets. The ends of a couple frets needed a little dressing. If you get a roasted maple neck, go over it with 600 grit and maybe 1000 grit to really have a smooth finish. If you go up to 2000 grit, the roasted maple will take on a gloss even with no finish. I didn't do mine and it is still outstanding. Maybe next time I change strings I'll do that.

I got the Tusq XL nut and it works great. I also got the compound radius with the standard thin profile and like it a lot. There's a thinner profile similar to the Ibanez Wizard if you want but that's just preference.

My next neck will also be Warmoth roasted maple. Plain maple with a finish costs more so you get by for less and have a superior neck, IMO.
 
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Re: Neck Opinions please

rgand said:
I recently got a Warmoth neck in roasted maple with a roasted maple fretboard. No finish needed and the feel is amazing. The fretwork was level out of the box and only needs a little polishing to get that extra smoothness from the stainless frets. The ends of a couple frets needed a little dressing. If you get a roasted maple neck, go over it with 600 grit and maybe 1000 grit to really have a smooth finish. If you go up to 2000 grit, the roasted maple will take on a gloss even with no finish. I didn't do mine and it is still outstanding. Maybe next time I change strings I'll do that.

I got the Tusq XL nut and it works great. I also got the compound radius with the standard thin profile and like it a lot. There's a thinner profile similar to the Ibanez Wizard if you want but that's just preference.

My next neck will also be Warmoth roasted maple. Plain maple with a finish costs more so you get by for less and have a superior neck, IMO.
Click to expand...

you read my mind
thanks
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

I would imagine that roasting would tighten up and densify the maple. How does this affect the tone? Does it make it brighter or darker?
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

Demanic said:
I would imagine that roasting would tighten up and densify the maple. How does this affect the tone? Does it make it brighter or darker?
Click to expand...
Maple is pretty hard by itself. I can't tell any difference between that and my other maple/maple neck but then, I haven't tried both on the same guitar.

The Warmoth site shows the hardness for all maples, including roasted, to be the same. There are a couple other woods the same (padouk, pau ferro) but the only one brighter is ebony. I may have to try that one of these days since it doesn't need a finish, either. On the right guitar, it would be outstanding.
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

I went from a Warmoth neck with one of these nuts:

big%20gibson%20es335%20nat%20hsDSCN7411.jpg


to another Warmoth with regular Tusq nut that they cut. Honestly, I have no complaints.
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

I've had a roller nut. It was ok, but it's really only necessary if you do alot of whammy. And you have to keep it very clean to assure free rolling of the bearings or you lose the advantage of having it. I used a couple Earvana nuts about 10 years ago and found that for most of my playing style and where I usually positioned my hand on the fretboard, it was just a tad off. But it was a great improvement over standard flat nuts (LSR included). I began making my own custom compensated bone nuts and couldn't be happier. But of the two nuts you're asking about, I would definitely choose the Earvana.
 
Re: Neck Opinions please

Well looks like the earvana and LSR aren't available on the tilt back headstock
So Tusq XL it is

The next thing is
The wizard neck
My Ibanez have the wizard II with a dramatic scoop on the back
Is the wizard neck the same?

How does the "standard thin" compare to the fender standard profile




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