Nut Slot Question?

jbear

New member
I feel like I should know the answer to this given the number of guitars I've had experience with, but...I don't feel that my understanding is clear.
I some guitars that have nut slots that are deep enough for the strings (esp. the high E and B) to be sitting well below the top surface of the nut and others where the string is just at the top or even slightly above the surface (in the case of the higher strings they are in the slot but close to the top). I have a few questions...
1-What is actually the optimal depth...does it vary depending...?
2-If the slot should be shallower, is it as simple as sanding down the top surface to reduce the depth?
3-If a guitar plays well...will doing #2 make an appreciable difference (if it's even possible to generalize)?
I've read the Erlewine book and I interpreted it to say that the slots should be pretty shallow. I have some pretty nice, well set-up guitars that don't seem to follow that suggestion. If I can get them to play even better by taking care of this myself...I'd like to.
So...what's your take?
Thanks for all input in advance!
 
Re: Nut Slot Question?

I feel like I should know the answer to this given the number of guitars I've had experience with, but...I don't feel that my understanding is clear.
I some guitars that have nut slots that are deep enough for the strings (esp. the high E and B) to be sitting well below the top surface of the nut and others where the string is just at the top or even slightly above the surface (in the case of the higher strings they are in the slot but close to the top). I have a few questions...
1-What is actually the optimal depth...does it vary depending...?
2-If the slot should be shallower, is it as simple as sanding down the top surface to reduce the depth?
3-If a guitar plays well...will doing #2 make an appreciable difference (if it's even possible to generalize)?
I've read the Erlewine book and I interpreted it to say that the slots should be pretty shallow. I have some pretty nice, well set-up guitars that don't seem to follow that suggestion. If I can get them to play even better by taking care of this myself...I'd like to.
So...what's your take?
Thanks for all input in advance!

1. I don't think there is any set in stone depth. The main thing is to have the string seated in the nut without popping out when bending etc, but not so deep that the string gets fully enveloped and binds in the nut. Under normal string tension, that would mean the slot doesn't have to be very deep. Ive heard it said a good depth gauge is half the string in the nut slot and half above. I usually shape them so the tops of the nut slots and the top of the strings are even. Seems to work OK.

2. Usually, nuts are slotted and then removed for final shaping which includes sanding the excess off the top and polishing, so yes, correct.

3. If the string isn't binding at all then, no it probably wont make a difference. I prefer a nice low profile nut, so a lot of excess material above the strings bothers me, so personally I'd shape the nut to my preference regardless.
 
Re: Nut Slot Question?

I can't say it bothers me either way. Like Ball & Chain said, so long as the strings aren't binding, then things shouldn't make much difference one way or another. The only slight variation to that rule, is that I'd always want the unwound strings to be below the top surface of the nut, but I'm fine with the wound ones being half and half. Most of mine are well below though.
 
Re: Nut Slot Question?

I've only given this any consideration in recent months, since most of my guitars are Floyded, but of those with slotted nuts (2 Jackson Custom Shop and 1 USA Select, 3 Japan-made) the tops of the wound strings are nearly even with the tops of the nut. I have seen a few where the nuts were barely slotted, and the strings slid out of them easily.

IMO it would be best if the wound strings were no more than halfway into the slot, to reduce binding in the slot.
Ideally a nut would be slotted for the precise angle to the tuner to reduce binding, but that's not feasible in every price range for off-the-shelf guitars.


Of course, the biggest consideration is making sure the bottom of the strings are the same distance from the frets, so the top of the nut could be reshaped any way you choose.


As well, ready-cut nuts generally come with either straight slots, or slanted 3x3, so if going with one that's pre-cut, check that it's cut in the correct manner for your guitar. If it's for an acoustic (3x3 and not a Strathead) then most nuts will be cut for 3x3 string angle.
 
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