Push/Push (not push/pull) volume knob to switch between bridge and neck pups

I'd say a 2-way toggle switch would be better for you than a push/push if your only issue is that you can't consistently hit a 3-way toggle without it getting stuck in the middle position.

A push/push is going to be harder to operate than a toggle. With a toggle switch you swing your arm to the switch, with a push/push you swing your arm to the switch and then smack your hand down, plus you can't see which position it's in.

Also if the switch location is the problem, maybe just swap the volume and toggle switch location?
 
FYI that one is logorithmic taper, so it will have faster effect/ramp at one end of the turn; being that it's not linear.
 
Dr.Mavashi said:
Meaning it will get louder quicker per turn travel let’s say after 50% of the turn than before ?
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Yeah. Sometimes people complain that their volume seems to have the most affect from 10-7 and then almost no affect between 6-0. That's what audio taper (logarithmic taper) does when used as a volume. My understanding is it's because in a passive guitar circuit, the volume is electrically a voltage divider. Since each doubling in power equals a 3db increase (and each halving of power equals a 3db decrease), 3db is the smallest difference any typical human ear can detect as a change. So using linear works out to be a natural ramp. If you use logarithmic as a voltage divider, you end up more than doubling power (or more than dividing in half when turning down) at one end of the taper, so it makes a more severe effect. You'll also get folks on here with conflicting views about which taper causes which affect, but there are videos that demonstrate the difference.

Try the one you ordered, see how it works for you. If it doesn't work out, you could try these guys, they have a few different choices and they're pretty friendly/responsive if you ask questions. Maybe check with them if any of theirs are linear.

https://www.guitarpartsresource.com/...shpushpots.htm
 
I find the opposite is true from my experience

But who knows you may be right

Ibanez and Keisel. Most guitar makers use linear volumes

With that said my Gibson came with the other one stock
 
ehdwuld said:
I find the opposite is true from my experience

But who knows you may be right

Ibanez and Keisel. Most guitar makers use linear volumes

With that said my Gibson came with the other one stock
Click to expand...

I also find the exact opposite to be true of my audio taper pots that are in my Gibson's. I get most of the sweep from 1-7 and not much from 7-10.
 
ehdwuld said:
I find the opposite is true from my experience

But who knows you may be right

Ibanez and Keisel. Most guitar makers use linear volumes

With that said my Gibson came with the other one stock
Click to expand...

Ok, I think you are right, technically. But wait for the demo section in this video. I think I've switched answers on this 8-10 times, ever getting corrected. I just remember going back and forth with this guy here on this forum, and when I finally tried linear volume, audio tone, the guitar when plugged in worked as I would have expected, so I've forever just used linear volume, audio tone ever since. YMMV

 
beaubrummels said:
I think I've switched answers on this 8-10 times, ever getting corrected.
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Almost noone can remember the correct workings of linear vs audio. You'll have a whole thread of mostly wrong and heresay answers. How hard is it to google image linear vs audio taper and get a graph to figure out the answer. Linear is linear duh. Audio turns down quicker.

Potentiometer-taper-characteristics-curve.jpg


Log is good for volumes if the person uses the distortion box all the time because it will clean up faster. Linear is good for volumes if the person plays clean and wants a long more usable sweep. Log is good for tones if the person wants the darkening effect to kick in more quickly as they turn down. Linear is good for a tone if the person wants a long sweep where it takes a while for the darkening to kick in.
 
Clint 55 said:
Almost noone can remember the correct workings of linear vs audio. You'll have a whole thread of mostly wrong and heresay answers. How hard is it to google image linear vs audio taper and get a graph to figure out the answer. Linear is linear duh. Audio turns down quicker.

Potentiometer-taper-characteristics-curve.jpg


Log is good for volumes if the person uses the distortion box all the time because it will clean up faster. Linear is good for volumes if the person plays clean and wants a long more usable sweep. Log is good for tones if the person wants the darkening effect to kick in more quickly as they turn down. Linear is good for a tone if the person wants a long sweep where it takes a while for the darkening to kick in.
Click to expand...

Yeah but watch that video. If you just measure a linear pot in circuit but without the load of an amp signal path, it has a more severe ramp; then when you plug it in, it behaves linearly.
 
Clint makes sense

On my Gibson with the audio taper pot for the volume

I can Clean up a dirty tone by backing off the volume aa quarter turn

This i cant do on my other guitars with linear volume pots
 
Clint 55 said:
Log is good for volumes if the person uses the distortion box all the time because it will clean up faster. Linear is good for volumes if the person plays clean and wants a long more usable sweep.
Click to expand...

See this is the opposite of how I see it. I don't want by distortion to clean up faster, but in terms of volume I find audio has a more linear sweep. One of these days I'm going to try out a 30% "vintage" taper pot, because that's right in the middle.
 
Also come to think of it, I may convert some of my tone controls to audio. A slow linear taper is useful for a large cap, but now thatat I use smaller caps a faster taper may benefit me
 
id say it depends on how you get your dirt. if you use a cranked up amp, then linear allows you to dial in a wide variety of tones over the full range of the pots throw, where audio squeezes those shades into a tiny bit of pot rotation. if you use a pedal or pedals for dirt, there is so much diversity in how they work i dont think you can make a blanket statement.
 
jeremy said:
id say it depends on how you get your dirt. if you use a cranked up amp, then linear allows you to dial in a wide variety of tones over the full range of the pots throw, where audio squeezes those shades into a tiny bit of pot rotation. if you use a pedal or pedals for dirt, there is so much diversity in how they work i dont think you can make a blanket statement.
Click to expand...

Its sad that I've been swapping pickups for years and only now am asking this question. I believe this is correct explanation. When dialing down high gain, want fine degree of control over range of the pot. And audio taper pot will loose its oomph if you turn it down just a little. But a clean guitar played without gain might benefit from audio taper.

The many Ibanez wiring diagrams floating around use linear volume and audio tone pots. These are generally high gain guitars. Ordering linear for volume pots for my guitars.

A couple years ago I measured the resistance of all the loose pots in my box and the 500K ones ranged between .4xx and .6xx. I was smart enough to write in sharpie what they actually measured.

When I was young and naive and didn't know they could have different values, I had one volume pot that I kept reusing because I was convinced it had better tone. It might have had less resistance or more (who knows), but now I know there was some truth to it.
 
I used this wiring for my traditional S,S,S, Strats .
I use a 5 way switch, a Push/ Push pot ( from GFS) , to get the common 5 sounds out of my Strats, get a neck / bridge combo ( on the neck position on the 5 way), on the neck position, I get all three pickups, one tone pot is for the neck/ middle pickups, while the other tone pot is for the bridge pickup .
When all three pickup are used I get a humbucker volume kick with Strat tone intact.

20221009_111730.jpg
 

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